sea dawg

Today, got the radiator hoses off and found only one bolt holding the radiator in. Pulled it to have it checked out (had fluid leaking and need to pressure test it). Getting ready to pull the EGR and other related vacuum system stuff to clean and test and re-install.

Then it's on to change out the gear oils in the diffs and tranny and see how she does!! Need to find some 31" tires and a rim for the spare...........

sea dawg

Well, this weekend I put the rebuilt radiator and ran it for about 20 or 30 minutes. I tried a number of cold starts, "started-but not warmed up" starts, also did some "started and fully warmed up" - turn it off and start it again). It is still having a lot of trouble starting up after the initial start. Worse, it seems, if it's fully warmed up.

I removed the Fuel Pressure Regulator to check it out and was wondering if there an off vehicle test to determine if it's working correctly??

Does anyone have a better vacuum system - picture / diagram - than the one in the Toyota FSM (for a 1985 EFI) ???

sea dawg

OK, question of the day. I found the block number, and can't figure out how to tell what it means.

On the left front (drivers side) of the block is the number "2912498 "

Can anyone decipher this?? I asked my parts guy at the Toyota dealer, and he says that they don't have a way to tell - What the heck!!!

sea dawg

So, I've replaced the vacuum hoses, fuel filter, radiator, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, taken the vcv out of the equation, and still getting reluctant starting after warm. Need to know how to perform fuel pressure test (or what to buy to do it).

Also, drove it for the first time, and found that the engine feels starved of fuel??? Maybe fuel problem, maybe exhaust problem, perhaps timing problem..........

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!!!

Thanks

osv

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump

check the fuel pump relay

BlueBelle2

I recently purchased an 85' 4x4, SR5, std cab, 22RE p\u. It had the same problem but i have compiled what i refer to as the yota bible. A fourteen year compilation of everything from FSM's to performance mods, etc. If you still need help i can send you a pic

sea dawg

Sounds great. would love a pic

Need a list of components to set up a fuel pressure test (What size adaptor bolt, where do I expect to find an appropriate gauge (NAPA???)

Also a reminder of how to check the timing on this vehicle, and whether it is advancing properly??

sea dawg

Well, got the beast out today and made three stops at different stores and back home, and it started each time!! I think my vacuum hoses are OK.

Verified that the fuel return is not clogged, fuel is being sent back to the tank, so I think I have enough pressure on the fuel rack. Will have to wait to see if it has any more trouble with warm starts (sounds like the COR is the next most likely suspect)

I found that the timing was set at about 1 degree past TDC, and this was perhaps contributing to how it was behaving. Next on the agenda is to get the CAT replaced. It rattles something fierce, and it is likely not helping anything work!!

Thanks for all the help, and links to places for help. You' all are amazing!!!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Small world. I get to Fayetteville about twice a month. All of NW Arkansas has exploded. Don't know when the last time you were here but it has grown.

I missed the timing question but sounds like you got it. Just need to jumper the plug on the drivers side to set the timing.

For your O2 Sensor use Denso >> http://www.sparkplugs.com/Automotive...sors-c143.aspx You can get the part number and get on ebay for a little bit cheaper price. Just for future information, I get my oil filter, plugs, cap and rotor from the dealer. Not much more then the parts store and far better quality. I get my Denso wires off of ebay for about $25 including shipping.

The EGR is an expensive part to replace, but on the tail end of my 86 runner build, a few pages back, I show how to take it apart and give it a good cleaning. Also how to get the Plenum cleaned as well. Glad to see you got it running.

sea dawg

I've not been able to figure out which plug to jumper on this truck?? There is an "L-shaped" fuse box, and the test plug for the fuel pump. Need to know what I'm looking for.

Thanks

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Not sure which plug you were wanting to jump but posted both below. The fuse box under the hood is the same all trucks ( there is a difference in white wire from the 22r and 22re) but the Diagnostic port is on the driver side on 85/86.

The Timing/Diagnostic Port is on the drivers side fender.



To jumper the fuel pump. It is on driver side as well.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

sea dawg

Thanks Terry, great picture. I found it. Now my understanding is that when you jump it, you adjust the idle to 750 RPM and check the timing. Then adjust the timing, adjust the idle, and recheck it. When you're done and you remove the jumper, you then adjust the idle back to 750 RPM again. Is that more or less correct??

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

That is pretty much it. I have my manual on loan, but it is recommended to adjust your valves as well. If you do step by step, it makes a big difference in the way that it runs.

You have to jump TE1 and E1 to set your timing or other wise it seems the timing mark moves around quite a bit. After I get all of the steps done and jumper removed, I then make sure my idle is where I want it to be. Seems to me there is something other then the valves and jumping the terminals that are involved but cant recall right off what the other step is.

osv

i don't think that you should adjust anything after removing the jumper, because at that point the computer should be controlling everything.

imho, if you were adjusting without the jumper, there would be no point in using the jumper in the first place... what does the fsm say to do?

sea dawg

So this past weekend I was working on installing the stereo system, and getting ready for a CB installation. Found the battery terminals to be loose enough to just pick up of the damned thing. Also found a splice twisted together and held with electrical tape. Got rid of that, put on new terminals, and the truck has been starting fine ever since (sometimes a little reluctantly, but it starts nonetheless.

Working theory is that the cold start worked because the CS injector was working properly but the fuel pump would not get proper amperage on a warm start. I had done the diagnostic with the fuel pump bypassing the main relay switch by the CPU, and that made no difference, so I'm guessing the relay is good.

So thanks to all for your help and input. I bought some 33's for it this morning, got some work to do on the brakes, 6" shackles to put on the rear end, and the CB installation this week. How or where do people create posts to show progress on their project???

sea dawg

Well, the saga continues. A friend has identified the intake manifold as a 1990, with a strange combination of parts in the engine bay. He spotted the injectors from a newer truck, and indicated that they should not be able to run on an '85 model due to the resistor block on the passenger side wall of the engine bay. He said that the injectors from a newer truck would require more voltage than the '85 system would produce.

The truck ran reasonably well for the last 6 months, and then this weekend it started missing randomly. I was in 4-low pulling a decent hill in 1st gear at 2-3,000 rpm, and it was coughing and spitting.

The plugs/wires/cap/rotor are all new, but I'll check them. I have a set of new injectors that are spec'd for an '85 truck, and hoping that will get me moving in the right direction.

Any thoughts would be helpful.

Thanks