I need to replace my starter. How can I tell whether I need the 1.0KW or the 1.4 KW version? Has manual transmission. Base 2.4 carb engine. Have not crawled under the truck yet to try to remove, as I would like to get the new (re-manufactured) starter before tackling this repair. Truck was originally purchased in Newport News, VA (not too cold of a climate), and it now lives near Houston, TX. Also, welcome any tips or advice on how best to do this for a moderately capable novice.

 

I replaced the starter on my 85 last fall but all it really needed was the solenoid to be rebuilt maybe. I have the parts to do that but in the process I found that the positive cable to the starter was falling apart. May have never needed to replace that starter all along. I would look into both the cable and solenoid first. I was told you could do the solenoid without pulling the starter.

 

Check the positive battery terminal and it's cables as well. Both ends of the heavy cable down to the starter. It only takes a surprizingly small amount of corrosion to make the starter not work.
Also, battery acid gets down inside the insulation of both sides cables. Good idea to visually check them, and to ohm them out.

It could also be the ground cable to the engine block. The heavy one direct from the negative terminal. Again, small amount of corrosion/dirt on either end can do the deed. Important to check the wire strands inside the insulation. Battery acid gets down inside there, and the strands start breaking with the slightest motion. Visually, very difficult to find. The insulation appears perfectly normal, but the wire can be completely corroded away. BOTH the positive and negative cable can get this way. Check them carefully.

Just so you know how sturdy the factory starters are, both my 87 trucks are still on their factory starters 30 some years later, and they both still start very nicely.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Like Pat says ^^^
HOwever, why do u need to to replace starter?
1.0KW had been discontinued. I bought rebuilt Toyota 1.4KW for my 1986. Plug n play
If u have intermittent click but no crank, pls see my post on starter relay retrofit or rewire. You need to add a starter relay on your 1985 manual truck.
​​​​​​

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I should have stated "I THINK" I need to replace the starter.
I tried starting again with video rolling. Volume was turned up to 500% of actual recorded volume to make clicking easier to hear, so check your volume setting before playing.
First video is of first three attempts where all I got was clicking. Fewer clicks with each attempt. Did not have seat belt fastened, so reminder buzzer also captured (sorry about that)
Second video I put on seat belt to eliminate reminder buzzer. 4th attempt only heard one click. On 5th attempt it started! I then turned it off and tried to start 5 more times, and each time it started.
I've attached videos (hope they aren't too large), and two still pics of passenger side under hood (I don't think I have a starter relay) and battery terminals (look pretty clean to me).
The starter itself was too hard to photograph, so will have to crawl under to check wiring terminals there.
Meanwhile, any additional thoughts?

 

I can't be 100 percent sure but it looks like you have another issue I found while doing my starter. The negative cable just went to the fender and not the block. I replaced it with a cable that goes to the block and fender.

 

Do not replace starter. Pls see my signature.
Then read this:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52422426

 

Thanks again to Damion 812 and RAD4Runner.
My ground wire does just go to the fender.
I cleaned the battery connections and it started up fine twice. Hopefully what little corrosion I could see was too much.
I'll try starting it throughout the day to see if all is still well.
A starter relay may be a good thing to add, since I apparently don't have one, but if it continues to start for me once a week (which is about all the use the truck gets), I may leave it as is.
So glad I don't have to change out the starter (at least for now).
And so glad this forum exists and the members are so willing to share their knowledge with an occasional visitor like myself!

 

We're happy to help!
There should be a direct ground to engine block. Else, you never know which path cranking current takes to starter.
Properly-wired starter relay will not only fix the problem, it will also save your ignition switch contact ST1. $30 worth of parts..

 

Absolutely! A heavy gauge cable, similar to the gauge of the positive cable that goes directly from the battery positive to the large bolt on the starter's body. It should go directly down to the AC compressor's mount. Lacking an AC compressor, it should go directly to one of the bolt holes where the mounting bracket would go.
If you don't have that ground, you should manufacture one immediately, and install it. Before you do any more cranking.
The starter uses the iron block for it's ground. Given the head gasket, the block is isolated from the battery negative, and as you crank it, that current is going to find ground where it can. Like maybe through the head gasket into the head. Kinda hard on head gaskets! Definitely manufacture a block ground wire. As large, or one size, MAYbe 2, than the positive heavy cable. Slightly larger won't hurt anything. Slightly smally, though, is liable to overheat and burn open while cranking.

On my two 87's, I switched over to "Marine Terminals" for the battery. Pretty much similar to the old, heavy lead terminals, but with a screw post standing up. Since I had to put ring terminals onto the cables, I went crazy, and replaced them completely. I was a radar tech, and in charge of our entire electric/electronic shop where I worked. We had plenty of cable the correct gauge for the heavy cables going to the battery, so I just manufactured completely new cables, end to end. I even made a new cable, the same gauge as the other two, that goes from the battery to the fender wall. I've got GROUNDS!

Cranking takes a large current flow, and it must be treated accordingly. That small little wire to the fender just isn't enough to provide the proper path for current flow, back from the starter to the battery.
Actually, just on a slight side note, current flows from negative to positive, it's just that humans think "Hmmm...Positive to negative must be how it goes." We tend to act accordingly, and somewhat disregard the ground paths, although they're as important, or even moreso, than the positive. I won't go into hole flow theory, though...

Have fun!
​​​​​​​Pat☺

 

This may be missing on 85's and earlier. Toyota'a electrical engineers back then were not as brilliant as its mechanical engineers.

 

just for "search" sake .. to answer the question , the 1.4KW starter is for "cold climate" it is the only one we had here in Canada , warmer climates used the 1.0KW
they are interchangable