Hey all so the cold mornings are coming to Florida finally and start up time and wear on the starter is getting annoying. I have done research on adjusting my electric choke but I’ve found so many different instructions I was hoping someone could give me the final say. I know the engine needs to be cold and towards the cab is for more lean and towards you is less lean I believe when adjusting you’re supposed to have throttle cable pulled open not sure really
any help is appreciated thank you

 

http://www.3fowlers.com/Weber%20Trou...ng%20Guide.pdf Page 5, Item D.

This is direct from Weber. Doesn't seem to be written very well or clearly to me tho. I'll try to add some info to the instructions, in order, for more clarity & to explain the "whys" of it. This adjustment has to be done with the engine stone cold. Fully operating the throttle to wide open then releasing it should cause the choke plates in the top of the carb to fully close. The "reference mark" is to mark what position the choke housing is in BEFORE you make any adjustments, so you can put it back where it was, if needed. Loosen the 3 screws on the Thermostat Housing Retainer Ring 1 full turn. No need to go further than that, just loose enough to be able to turn the Thermostat Housing in the ring. Holding the throttle 1/3 open prevents the Fast Idle Cam from interfering with your adjustment setting. You are correct, turning the Thermostat Housing towards the cab is "lean", reducing the spring tension of the Thermostat on the Choke Linkage. Turning it towards the front of the vehicle is "rich", increasing spring tension. Still holding the throttle 1/3 open, rotate Thermostat Housing towards the cab until you see the Choke Plates open. Then rotate Thermostat Housing towards front of vehicle until the Choke Plates just fully close. Then rotate a further 1/8 inch (this should equal one "notch mark" on the housing). Tighten the 3 screws in the Retainer Ring; do NOT over-tighten, just make them nice & snug. Over-tightening can cause the Retainer Ring to warp. Release throttle from 1/3 open position.

The "fast idle speed may need to be re-adjusted" is because the position of the Fast Idle Cam & Screw are a part of the Choke Linkage, and are therefore dependent on Choke Position.

Start the engine. Adjust the Fast Idle screw if needed. Fast Idle Speed Spec on my '78 20R is 2400 RPM but I find that way too fast; I have it set at 1600. Stock Fast Idle Speed Specs: All 20R and 1981-83 22R: 2400 rpm; 1984-86: 2600 rpm; 1987-88: 3000 rpm. Hot Idle Speed I run at 850 RPM.

Run for 3 minutes & check that the choke plates are fully open. If the choke plates do not fully open, you either have the Thermostat Spring tension set too tight (too far towards "rich" side), or your Thermostat is defective, failing or not hooked up right to a correct electric circuit. Or you have Fast Idle Speed set too high (screw turned too far in, doesn't allow fast idle cam to disengage). Or your Choke Linkage is binding, usually due to a buildup of crud; a few shots of carb cleaner usually fixes that.

I am also in Florida so I suggest doing this adjustment first thing in the morning while it's still cool out. My 1600 RPM Fast Idle setting seems to work for me. I'm able to "kick it down" to the next step on the cam within a minute of start up & can drive it like that with no problem.

Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.

 

I think I can manage that, going to try tomorrow morning thank you

 

I think you're referencing one of my gripes with the Weber, which is that the High Idle gets disengaged as soon as you step on the gas and doesn't reset. The choke stays closed but the idle speed drops down to normal and on a really cold day that isn't good. I think it's simply a design flaw. The linkage kicks off the high idle cam and that's that. I've always thought that was really stupid.

 

I just don't step on the gas for a few minutes, especially on a cold morning.

 

I moved this post to a new thread.