Well,does any body have a clue whats going on with my 22r timing advance? Ive done a serch but nothing thats close to what im running.Im having to run between 25 to 31 advance to get the engine to run right.

Quick run down of whats been done. Got the truck it had a warped head so off to the machine shop to get shaved and valves redone.Then had the block bored and new pistons and had the crank done.It had a double row timing chain that looked good test ok so it went back in. New oil pump,water pump timing cover. Did a smog delete on the motor, it has a long tube header,and a Im guessing from pictures,a 32/36 webber.Now,the mechanical advance was frozen so I got it freed up,vacume advance is hooked to the carb.With the vacume unhooked,plugged, If I run less then 15 it just wont start, it idols up nice at 31 degrees so the engine like it. It don't want to rev up past 5000 rpm though.

Now some one told me that the cam gear mite be in the wrong spot, when i assembled the motor,#1 piston was at top dead with the key way straight up. The cam gear dial pin was straight up but the dot was to the left about a half a tooth. So I jump the cam gear 1 tooth to the right,so now the dot is just slightly to the right a little, but it still wants 31 advance to run happy. Im sure this engine has an after market cam just, don't know how much cam its got.

It got good power for a 4 banger,it heats up under heavy throttle. I can tell it running a lot of advance because I can smell the header heating up when im pulling a hill when off roading,the vacume gauge drops out to 5 HG. Its got 5.29 gears and im running 15/38.5/15 boggers,it spins them fine in 2 wd but 4wd high it boggs down.

Im not sure how much compression this engine has but spinning it over with a torque wrench is a bit difficult,to say the least its like im turning over a v8 when it hits the compression stroke.

Could the head being shaved, bump the compression enough to need that much advance to run right? Some insight from some one thats had this problem before would be much appreciated.

 

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Well I guess ive got a truly unique problem.I wish a yota tech guy would chime in to tell me what to look at.Well i guess I could jurk this 4 banger when i blow it up and drop a chevy v8 in.I know my way around a SBC.

 

Any body.

 

I dont own a 22r but it sounds like whatever advance module is locked. Is it vacume advance? I mean 31 isnt to far off what i run on my locked out msd for BBC but i wouldnt run that in a truck.

 

Do your vacuum advances work at all? Mine has two, one hooked to the carb, and one to the intake manifold. You test them by sucking on the hose, motor running, watching your timing marks to see if the distributor will advance the timing. You have to plug the opening on the carb or manifold when doing this. I use a vacuum pump. There's an aftermarket vacuum advance unit available for about 60 bucks from these guys:

http://www.lceperformance.com/

 

The inside advance dont work diaphragm is bad,but the outside or end diaphragm does work and I can see and hear the timing advance when i plug the manifold vacume to it.The mechanical advance was frozen but I fixed that. The engine still wants between 25- 31 initial to run smooth and when the vacume hits from the carb, it idles up and runs fine even when it runs up to 50 on mechanical.I guess the compression is high,im going to try and put some 93 octane in there today and see if it improves it any.I dont have the cash to drop a new distributor on it to see if thats the problem.

 

you sure you have the distributor in the correct position ? almost sounds like your out a tooth


.

 

50 deg all in timing is way to far for anything running in normal rpm ranges. Somthing is suspect. Is there another timing light you can use. Shure you have #1 wire

 

30-32 degrees Total Timing- all in at about 2000 RPM. That should give you about 10 degrees at 1000 RPM idle. The above is straight mechanical timing with no vacuum advance used.

 

i verified the timing with 2 light,a digital and a regular advance light.Im going to jack around with the carb tomorrow while out mud riding and try to idle up the carb as I pull out advance. The idle screw is missing from the carb so ill need to replace it, but ive timed SBC alot and when u can idle down the carb and pick it back up by adjusting the advance,ur heading in the right direction.But in this case im way out.I had it timed right when i put it back together,right now im 1 tooth advanced on the cam,and it still wants 31 to run at 800 rpm and run smooth. Its looking more and more like its under carbed to me, when i pulled the manifold vacume advance of the distributor it idled up,when i plugged it it idled back down. it acted like it needed more air. Any body ever have a problem with there 32/36 carb hindering there motor from making full power?

Poeple keep asking me if the distributor is a tooth off,U can put that distributor any position u want as long as u put the plug wires in the right spot.U can point that rotor straight down as long as the #1 plug wire is sitting next to it. But to answer the question, I had to jump it a tooth just to get the distributor to advance out to 25 -35 because 9 degrees was not doing the job of getting it to run right.

So every body agrees that it should be all in at 2- 3000 rpm at a max of 32 - 36? ill try to get there this saturday when im out pounding on it.

 

Ok, did some test and tune yesterday. Looked the cam over and the arrow is in the middle of the rocker support bracket.Well I had the cam half a tooth advanced,I pulled the timing down to 10 degrees initial.It ran hard but heated up fast under load, even pulling 2wd driving through the sandy trails it heated up to 210.So I pulled the valve cover and turn the cam gear back 1 tooth.Now its set half a tooth to the retard position.It wont line up wear it suppose to be,guess I need one of those expensive adjustable cam gears.

Any way, after putting in a couple hours of work moving things around,I timed it to 5 degrees initial but had to idle up the carb to get it to idle.Checked all in to be 33 degrees by 2000 rpm.Seams to run ok,It ran better at 31, but took it out and runs good but it still heats up under load just takes longer and cools off faster when I stop pounding on it.Looks like it need a bigger radiator.Im looking into upgrading the cooling system to maybe keep the beast cool.

Any body know were to get a cheap adjustable cam gear?

 

having the same problem............

 

If your engine is getting hot you have other problems. If you set your timing at 8-10 initial (total at 30-32) that timing spec would be fine for a motor developing up to 300 HP. Put the cam where it should be, set your timing, set your valves and look for a cooling problem. I have my motor dialed in at 285 HP and she never goes above 180 degrees even while sitting in traffic on a hot day.