Thanks for the props. Antelope hunting is a little different here in Idaho because the rifle seasons are all lottery draws. I did not apply for a tag this year, but for almost 20 years previously I applyed with no success. I tried archery hunting them one year, but they are dang hard to get with a stick and string. A cousin of mine is fanatical about it though, and he has harvested several with his bow. He's a pretty good hunter, I'm not surprised that he has had so much success hunting them with a bow.

 

Wyoming is pretty easy to get tags for - depending on the unit. You can call the game warden in, say, Casper or Buffalo, and get the low-down on where to apply for tags. For meat hunters, does are $45 out of state, hard to beat. For buck hunters, it is a mite more expensive. Pushing $300 when all is said & done.

You know what you call bow antelope hunters?





HUNGRY.

They are curious creatures though, and there are ways to exploit that. Good eating IF you skin and debone them, and chill them down fast, and sear the meat on a HOT fire to medium rare (no fat = gets tough quick). If they ran, or if you left them in a black plastic bag like I saw with a group of hunters... not so much.

Gee, this is sort of virtual garage banter while 83 does all the work, ain't it?

 

Yeah let me put this in here again since you guys were talking & didn't hear my question!

 

Gee what a whiner...

It's below the awl flitter. Not sure why yours has a plug in it? The oil passage appears on the block looking like a vein on the back of your hand, which is kinda like its purpose.

 

I like that saying a lot. That for sure describes my attempt at hunting them with archery equipment.

Hey, it seems just like real life to me!

My bad! Sorry to get this whole thread off track. Of course, I am not sorry enough to allow it to get back on track, and since we are talking hunting and all I thought I would post up another pic. I got this guy a couple of years prior to the first pic I posted:

 

Oh man when I get back home I'm going to take a picture of the rack on the deer I shot last year. You guys won't believe it!

Mine has a vein running both under and back from it... here's the one to the back



Here you can (hopefully) make out the one under it.



By the way, what's the thing in the front of the photo with the hose sticking out of it (not the thermostat)? The metal hose that comes out underneath it is very corroded, I'd like to replace it but can't find what it actually is..

 

You want UNDER the awl flitter. Sheesh, I tells ya, and ya ignores me!

Not familiar with the early trucks, but it looks to be the air control (into the exhaust manifold). Not sure.

 

Yeah, I only point it out because in my photos, it kind of looks like it was screwed into the back one, but I didn't take photos specifically of it, it just happens to show up way in the background of a few, so it's hard to tell. Ok, so I'll be taking the plug out (of the one under the filter), and screwing the sender in. Thanks!

Oh yeah, and if that's just air, I likely will let that corroded hose stay a bit longer..The hose sticking up out of the photo connects to the air filter housing.

 

Here he is. He was a monster!!

 

Wow that is exactly what I do...lol. Except I've never killed a deer in the 5 years I've hunted and don't care about small bucks...lol

 

I was reading back through and saw about someone asking about the Marlin L52HD. Obviously I've got no miles through it yet, but...........it sure is purdy.

 

No shame in that. The harvest is fine and all, but if you can't have a good time even if you are unsuccesful, you are probably taking it way too seriously.

Dude, that is a sweet tranny! You must be made of money or something. I couldn't afford the drainplug on that thing!

 

Not any more he ain't!

 

Lol

Hey 83- I forgot to comment on that buck you posted. I bet the venison tasted much much better than the ones I posted! Antlers really don't make a good soup at all!

 

Yeah, it was really tasty.

No, not made of money. I'm now made of whatever the bank wants me to be made of. My plan when I bought this truck was not to go into debt, but when I started finding out all that was wrong with it....it was either give up on it and sell it for a loss....or put into what it needed, and figure a truck with a new engine, transmission, clutch and various other things, that cost me as much as this, is still sooo much cheaper than getting a new vehicle, and this thing will be almost as good. Then I figured if I'm going to pay upwards of a grand to get a transmission rebuilt anyway....I remember paying just over $600 to have a transmission rebuilt probably 6 years ago.

So, I can't get my oil sending unit to screw into this hole. What's up with that? It seems just slightly too big (the sending unit). Run into that before?



Also, I seem to remember my clutch pedal being very easy to depress before, but should it seem really really loose, and should I be able to shift through the gears whether the clutch is in or not? I did replace the release cylinder, so it could need to be bled, but would it have that effect?

Once I figure out how to get that oil unit threaded, it's just a matter of making sure everything is really hooked up, then adding oil, antifreeze, spark plug wires and cap...

 

Got it started! I filled it up with coolant Saturday morning. One leak....two leaks. Intake manifold had to be taken off again. Well, I've done that about 5 times now, so it took me about an hour to get it off and back on again right, not too bad.

I've got idle issues. When it first started it was probably up around 1500 to 2000, which is good for just getting the engine running, and I let it sit there for probably 15 minutes. Tapped the gas and the idle dropped, and it wouldn't stay running for more than 20 seconds or so without putting my foot on the gas. Seems to do better after being driven for a bit though. So it always (so far) tries to die when it's just been started (well, that or it has a high idle..), but after driving it around a bit, it seems to do better.

That isn't really a big concern of mine, though. It sounds a bit like a helicopter driving down the road? Valves? Could they have come from the machine shop that out of adjustment, or could getting it running for the first time really throw them off that much? I'm also maybe thinking it could be an exhaust leak. When I first started it up, there was definitely crap coming out of the exhaust manifold, but after about 5 minutes it seemed to stop. That or it started running better and so the exhaust wasn't visible anymore. At idle, then engine's a bit loud, but not "clicky". It's only when I accelerate that it starts making the tapping noise. Valves? Exhaust leak? I know you can't really tell just from my description, but what things could I expect would need adjustment? What stuff should I look for? I re-torqued the exhaust bolts and it didn't help.

I also was missing ONE bolt from the oil pan. I found it, but hadn't put it in yet. I notice an oil leak from that spot. Now I've got the bolt in, but..I'll have to check again today, but it might still be leaking. Is there a chance I've got to re-do the oil pan because of the RTV curing with that bolt missing? Anyway, if so, that can wait until my first oil change. Right now I'm worried about why my engine makes so much noise.

Either way though, I'm driving it!!

EDIT: oh yeah, and another reason I was thinking leaking exhaust is that when I was first cranking the engine, I could hear some air hissing out of somewhere about every 1-2 seconds, like a hiss........hiss every couple seconds. I could hear it when I turned the crank to make sure I was at TDC, too.

 

1. sounds like a vacuum leak affecting your idle.
2. manifolds do not heal themselves, you gotta fix it.
3. yep, you gotta reseal the oil pan. Hey, put 100 miles on it first, you should do the initial oil change then anyway.
4. Yep, you have to adjust the valves. Hot. Pain in the butt too.
5. Possibly have the timing too far advanced?
6. Works better if you chase one thing at a time. First to chase: valve adjustment (make sure you don't clamp down the valve cover too tight; the rockers start smacking the pressed steel thingies under the cover). Then timing. Then chase the vacuum leak & exhaust leaks. I probably would not put a lot of miles on it till these are fixed.

 

Ok, thank you. The last time I tried to adjust my valves, they ended up worse. It's all by feel...you need to feel resistance, but not too much, just enough. Well, if I had felt a bunch of valve clearances that were right, I'd get a feel for it, but..I'll give it a shot.

I've got the distributer turned as far as it will go one way. As soon as I start going back the other way, it stalls. What do you think?

I just thought maybe with the exaust, the new gasket had to seat itself or something maybe. I hope my manifold isn't warped or something. I had two exaust gaskets. One came with a little metal o ring. The other didn't. I didn't see anywhere obvious it could go, so I didn't do anything with it. Know where that might go?

Ok, maybe at lunch I'll use the other exaust gasket I've got and see if that helps. But what's the deal? It's brand new, and torqued to spec. Why should it leak right off the bat? I know you can tell from all the way over there in Colorado.

Too bad the dealership cost a fortune to adjust valves. My mechanic is in Missoula...2 hour drive. He's way cheaper. I suppose I could try an independant person, I'd feel better if someone who knew what they were doing looked it over. I can replace things, but I'm not so good at diagnosing problems. I'll give it a shot on my own, first though. Vacuum leaks, anyway, I think I can deal with.

 

Ok, well unfortunately I know why I have an exhaust leak. One bolt, the one on the bottom of the manifold closest to the firewall, was missing. Still missing...because I now remember it had a different bolt in there, and now I know why. It's stripped. I don't know that I want to buy the equipement to fix it. Is there a cheap way to do it, or am I bringing it in to a shop?

I also know of one place with a vacuum leak, but I need to buy a part (BVSV?) before that can be fixed.

Seriously annoying.

 

The joys of old iron.

If you didn't adjust the valves you may be in danger of burning one. What you want to do is follow the FSM procedure to adjust them. Take heart, it really is not that bad - you want to have a steady smooth drag on the feeler gauge. If you have to pull hard and/or kinda seizes, then slides, then seizes, or if it just slides through with little effort, it is too tight in the first case and too loose in the second. Try to get the feeler gauge where you can pull +/- at 90* to the valve, so you are just feeling the resistance of the tappet itself. Smooth drag with consistent resistance.

One thing that can make valve adjustment a real )*&)^(%^ is if your screw tappets are worn. Fortunately, these are easy to replace and cheap at the dealer. Unscrew one and see if it has a flat spot worn in it.

See? It might NOT have been you. It might have been a worn tappet making you crazy trying to get it set right.

Exhaust manifolds do warp, especially if they are run with a missing bolt. So that should be taken care of. You want to heli-coil that hole, which can be done with only removing the manifold. Do NOT DRILL TOO DEEP, you can mark the depth with a piece of tape wrapped around the drill at the max point. Pretty straightforward really.