Sure you don't have it backwards? My base model cluster had the Toyota symbol on the far right, then, heading left, speedometer, fuel, temp. My oil was just an idiot light, no gauge. Same with Charge. Here's a photo. My old one is the top one. (bottom one didn't fit..)




There is a wire already there for temp, you must have one...I don't know of any trucks that don't have a temp gauge already wired up from the factory. What needs to happen for the SR5 cluster is that you move some wires around, get a new oil sending unit if you get the oil & volt gauges that come as a separate cluster and is located under your two center heating vents under the dash, and run a wire for the tach. The tach wire should be the only one you need to run. Everything else is there. So here is the swap info. If you can figure out which plug-in is #1, you just start at the top of it. The first slot in it is one, and you just count from there. Between the three plug-ins there are something like 24 slots for wires. You just pull the # wire from the non-SR5 location and move it to the SR5 location. For me the colors were all correct, but if they aren't, the numbers should be anyway, so you just need to count. The only things you'll need that aren't there already are the oil sending unit and the tach wire.

SR5 non-SR5 wire color function
1 1 GY Right turn signal indicator
2
3 3 BR (B BR) Speed sensor (-) ground
4 6 GL Speed sensor (+)
5
6
7 23 YG Water temp gauge
8 9 RW Panel lights (+)

9 15 YR Fuel Gauge
10 12 Y Ignition switched power
11 21 YB Oil Pressure switch (idiot light)
12 22 YW Charge (idiot light)
13 14 WB Ground
14 Tach input - must be wired to igniter
yellow
15 17 GB Left turn signal indicator
16 16 RB Panel lights (-)

17
18
19 11 G 4WD
20
21 19 BY Seat belt
22
23 13 RG High Beam
24 20 GW Brake

 

Sorry no matter what I do I can't get them spaced out, but the first column is SR5 wire locations, second column non-SR5 wire locations (yours), third column wire color abbreviation, fourth column the function of the wire. So you need to find the passenger-side-most plug-in, the top slot in it is #1, and you count from there. You can check against the wire color if you get confused as to which # slot you're at. Every SR5 # that is different from non-SR5, you've go to move that wire to the SR5 location. Then everything will work.

This is why when I first plugged mine in, the right turn signal was about the only thing that worked. I also had to switch a bunch of bulbs over, since many in the SR5 cluster were burnt out. Luckily all the bulbs in my original cluster were good, so I just traded them over. Good luck finding a cluster. I didn't have luck at first, but Dirtoyboy got one for me. He may have more, but he just handed off his junkyard duties to a new person. You can contact that person at girlzlikemud2@sbcglobal.net I've also got photos of what the plug-in differences are between my cluster and most other 79-83 clusters and you should take a photo of your plug-in style to email to whoever is selling you one, so you don't end up like me with a perfectly good cluster with a tach that won't plug in to your truck. : )

If you get one & have questions let me know. You can also just get an aftermarket tach...

 

yah I do have the same as you do , the one on top. thanks for info. To bad the bottom one dont work thats a nice old school looking cluster. so yah ill give them a holla im gonna see if any of the yards near me have anything usually they dont, there more money in scrap right now than parting stuff out.

 

Here's what the SR5 cluster looks like, in case you go out looking.



Not as old school-cool as the one I originally found, but it's still a pretty cool looking cluster. I like it. Much better than the original, anyways. My truck is basically an SR5 now. I found the nice fake wood dash stuff, the nicer steering wheel, cluster and shifter knob. The only thing I don't have that an SR5 truck would have probably come with is AC and power steering. I guess I still need to find that Volt and Oil guage cluster, too..

 

yah I like that alot more than mine, I got a quote of 80 for that part from the email you gave me , think thats a good price? it seems a bit spendie

 

Well....are you getting the oil & volt cluster with it? I paid a bit less than that for mine, but I didn't get the separte oil & volt gauges. It really just seems to depend on how people are feeling, as far as what they'll charge. That seems like more than I've ever seen one go for, though. Offer $60 & see what happens....

 

she agreed to 80 shipped with the volt and oil gauges so im gonna do it shes getting a picture for me in the mean time.Im running out of room in my cab, were do the oil and volt go. probly right under the vent im guessing.

 

great info, my 81 22r leaks oil bad. u just may have given me the gumption to tear into mine. i'm no mechanic and have never really been in a motor. i have rebuilt birfields and installed a locker once pulled a few motors and installed a tcase crawler kit on a zook. i still consider myself a noob and usually have to do things twice if not three times

anyhow was wondering if the oil pan is still leaking?? did ur pan have the raised lip on it and didnt u say u did not use the cork gasket??

i have oil caked everywhere!! from the plastic guard under the fan to the rear end. everything is soaked on the pass side under the carb.

i guess my questions are how many of those gaskets can i change on the front without tearing too much off??? like i dont want to mess with the timing!!!! also did u do the rear main seal and how did that go??? i'm sorry if u said but where did u get the gaskets from??

thanks

 

Scooby yeah the oil & volt gauges go right in the center of your truck, under those vents below the dash, right in front of your shifter. I should ask her if they've got more of those...they probably do. I think for both that's not a terrible price..

Yukon- no, so far my pan is not leaking. I resealed it....probably 2 weeks ago now. That's not much time, but so far no more leaks. I do have the raised lip on it, and I didn't use the cork, I used black RTV. That goes against what I've heard you are supposed to do, but I didn't hear that until after I had done it! So far so good, though.

If you don't want to mess with the timing..I guess you could do the water & oil pumps without taking the timing cover off, but if you've gone that far there's really not much more to do, and not much more to screw up! Just a matter of keeping good track of where the bolts go and using a good torque wrench. The machine shop did my rear main, so I can't help you with that. You do need to take the transmission & clutch off to get to it, though..

The oil pan is easy, but I can't say whether my RTV will hold up or not. Luckily with our trucks, the pan comes right out without having to mess with the front diff or anything. Just be aware, you start diggin around in there, who knows what you'll find! You could end up like me with a rebuilt engine.

But, you can do the water & oil pumps with just taking the fan off..I think. It's all getting foggy already. Taking off the radiator is easy and gives you a lot more space to work, but not necessary. I think you could easily do those seals without tearing into the engine much, though. I think you may need to get the crankshaft bolt out to get those covers off, though...oil pump anyways. That's a bit of pain but not so bad. Anyway, post up questions here and if you have an FSM, even an '85 like I got online, it will help a lot.

Oh and some of the gaskets the machine shop ordered with a rebuild kit, the others came from engnbldr.com, and if you're doing it all yourself, I would get them from Ted at engnbldr.

 

Hey Zach, sorry, I've been real busy with work and then with hunting. Filled two tags, and my wife got her first antelope (and field dressed it herself, and skinned/quartered it herself, and keeps remarking how much fun she has! Atta girl!! She did a great hunt with great strategy and a good shot.).

Going up again this weekend with the older son. My freezer ain't got much room left! Gonna have to make a bunch of jerky I guess... Handloading some .223 for the first time, to run through the AR-15 to relieve the rancher of some unwanted prairie poodles.

Haven't done anything to the truck aside from driving it. It keeps running better as things seat in. I get piston slap until it warms up, then it revs just dandy. That's why these things should be run gently until everything expands to operating dimensions I 'spose.

As far as oil pans, I have always used black Toyota RTV, and never had an issue. Cork is for wine. (for that matter the synthetic corks are probably better there... LOL)

 

Great!! Good to hear you're back. I really hope to run out of freezer space myself. That little buck didn't last me past March this year. I need something bigger this time..I'll start hunting probably a couple weeks after the general rifle season starts. I've got a little money to spend on a gun, so I'm deciding what I want. I'm borrowing a .308 though, so I can take my time deciding. 30.06.....270....new...used...what brand?...
Got about $400 to spend. Not much, but it should do. Has to take deer & elk.

I'm getting very bad gas mileage so I need to figure out what the deal is with that before I drive it much more. Otherwise it's doing great.

 

Might need to seat the rings yet. My mileage is around 17 city, but my friend's (similar rebuild) is getting over 20, more like 25 hwy. - he has a couple thousand miles on the rebuild. He was getting what I am getting at first.

Well, not a real fan of .06 variants, though you can sure buy ammo anywhere you need to. Ballistics are... well... good for 1906. 270 is a nice round, especially WSM. I shoot .300WSM and find it to be a real all-around caliber (Browning A-Bolt Synthetic Stalker). Some interesting WSSMs out there. .243 is a GREAT antelope round for CHEAP but too small for elk (IMHO, though it can be done), quite passable for deer. You can get 107gr. if you hand load, which is well worth doing BTW, your accuracy will improve.

I have been extremely pleased with Savage AccuTrigger rifles (.243 for my wife, .300WSM for my son). Cheap, but they don't SHOOT cheap. Very accurate. Great rifle in your price range, IMHO. The trigger is not a gimmick, it works. Hard to find AccuTrigger AND a drop bottom magazine, but the magazine is less important. Avoid the package deals with Simmons scopes, they are junk and won't hold true AND have inadequate eye relief. DAMHIK, DOH!!!!

I love Burris BallisticPlex scopes for no-guess holdover for antelope, and my 4.5x14 - 50mm is perfectly good for close range elk and antelope to 500 yards too, and great in low light. My son and wife do fine with 3x9 BallisticPlex scopes. Great glass.

 

Nice, thanks Bill. I was considering a .270, but I just keep hearing so much about the 30.06. I hear there isn't much difference, though, and that the .270 shoots flatter, so I may go with that. I wonder about the .308 I'm borrowing. It's a nice gun. Haven't shot it yet, though. I was looking at Stevens 200, which I guess is made by (or for?) Savage. Basically bottom of the rung savage without the accutrigger? What I heard, anyways. I think that's about all in the new area that's in my price range. Used, however...we'll see! Thanks for the info. There aren't sites like this for rifles, at least not ones as good as this.

I'm getting 15mpg, highway. I'd sure like to believe it's just a matter of the rings seating. I don't want to be messing anything up. I'll likely bring it to a shop to just have everything checked over, just to be sure, and check out my exhaust to make sure I don't have any leak over there any more. Thanks again!

 

All of the calibers you mention will do it. You will hear a lot about the .30-06 from old schoolers, but frankly I hate the ballistics, you can do so much better. Short action is just a notch above IMHO in so many ways, especially for followup shots. WSMs or WSSMs rock. Huge selection of bullets in .30 (.308) caliber, so I like the .300WSM. I do have a Ruger M77 .308 (7.62 NATO) stainless synthetic I got used, nice rifle, not much kick compared to a WSM with a hot load, and .308 is used in match shooting all the time - but I just don't like the holdover for antelope. It did bring home meat though. Fine rifle for elk/deer.

Try longrangehunter.com, good site.

 

Well, I saw and put a down payment on a nice used Ruger .270 Winchester. I'll be able to get it after next payday. May or may not be able to use it this season...it doesn't have a scope on it, and I'd rather wait until I have money for a good scope, especially since I'm borrowing a gun still. Might be hard not to shoot my gun this season, though..

 

Hey Bill or anyone- do you use RTV instead of gaskets on most things? I have a leaking bypass hose. The bolts are plenty snug but it's still leaking, and the way the coolant runs down the side of the timing cover it makes it look as though the timing cover is leaking. I want to get it fixed so that I can make sure the cover isn't leaking, since it was in a couple spots but after snugging up the bolts a little those areas have stopped. Anyway, where the hose attaches on the passenger side just behind the timing cover I think it's leaking.

 

I use either Toyota FIPG (black for motor, orange for driveline) or Permatex The Right Stuff (diffs) pretty exclusively. I used a gasket on the connection you describe (and most of the motor in fact) and have no issues. You could try FIPG.

 

Ok, thanks. I just took a gasket from the rebuild kit that looked right, so maybe I'll get one from Toyota and see if it seals better. Any more luck hunting? I just picked up my gun today. Not sure I'll go out until a couple weeks after opening day to let things settle down and not get shot, but it's a bit tempting to try for an elk before they get too spooked.

 

All I put in for this year was antelope. Good thing, too, my freezer is full to bustin'! Yeah, I did find some of the gaskets in the rebuild kit were.... light.

 

hey, how much did it cost you to rebuild your motor?, i need to do mine and would kinda like to know how much it is gonna posibly cost me