thinking of getting a 82 or 83, thoughts?
#1
thinking of getting a 82 or 83, thoughts?
I went wheeling my newly purchased 1st gen 4runner. its in nice condition and a daily driver but after seeing all the brush scratches and having to take hours to get it back to a clean state (wash, buff, shine) i think i need to buy a rig that is a strictly for trail use only plus the normal on road store/showoff runs. What brings me to this point is the fact that i want to keep my 1st gen looking good as i drive it everyday and i dont want to have a minor trail break and not have anythign to drive for a week while i fix it. Seeing as i have to drive to work to make money and that 4x4 = $x$ i need a trail rig.
A few of my buddy have 84's and 85's and some newer SAS's but i really like the looks of a friends 83 not to metion the simplicty of everything on it.
I think my first choice for building a trail rig is a 83 or 82 with the 22r and 5spd becuase they are simple to build and parts arnt outragously expensive for them either. I dont need anythign crazy to have fun just the standard leaf springs not 4 link or anything. i am good at fabricating and can easily do all the needed stuff, welding, cutting, designing, motor rebuild etc.
So in total including the vehicle im looking at tryign to spend 8 grand or less. Is the doable and still be able to do everythign right and not cut any major corners?
I am thinking
truck, running - $2000
suspention, and d shafts- $2000
tires and steelies- $1200
axle rebuilds, gears, lockers, $1200
bumpers and slider and fabrication material, $500
winch, $800
little stuff that addds up like
spray paint, grinding wheels, bolts, beer $300
total 8K
what do u think
A few of my buddy have 84's and 85's and some newer SAS's but i really like the looks of a friends 83 not to metion the simplicty of everything on it.
I think my first choice for building a trail rig is a 83 or 82 with the 22r and 5spd becuase they are simple to build and parts arnt outragously expensive for them either. I dont need anythign crazy to have fun just the standard leaf springs not 4 link or anything. i am good at fabricating and can easily do all the needed stuff, welding, cutting, designing, motor rebuild etc.
So in total including the vehicle im looking at tryign to spend 8 grand or less. Is the doable and still be able to do everythign right and not cut any major corners?
I am thinking
truck, running - $2000
suspention, and d shafts- $2000
tires and steelies- $1200
axle rebuilds, gears, lockers, $1200
bumpers and slider and fabrication material, $500
winch, $800
little stuff that addds up like
spray paint, grinding wheels, bolts, beer $300
total 8K
what do u think
#3
damn, if i get this 80 for 1000, comes w/ 33s on nice rims, and a lincoln locker. im just gonna do cheby rears and rears up front and run 35s w/ 5.29 gears so
Suspension - 100
driveshafts - 200
gears - 700
high steer - 350
35s - 500
under 2k..... and that will leave me with the extra cash to put in a better engine.
Suspension - 100
driveshafts - 200
gears - 700
high steer - 350
35s - 500
under 2k..... and that will leave me with the extra cash to put in a better engine.
#6
how do you regear for 700 bucks and how to do you get hy-steer for 350?
I think you are closer to 8k ...a nice stock truck around hear (washington) will run you about 2k ...I would start with a stock truck because you know that a truck thats already built a little ....for one was build cheeply and something is ready to break ...and it's prolly been ran hard
I think you are closer to 8k ...a nice stock truck around hear (washington) will run you about 2k ...I would start with a stock truck because you know that a truck thats already built a little ....for one was build cheeply and something is ready to break ...and it's prolly been ran hard
Last edited by Foxtrot; Jul 27, 2006 at 10:51 AM.
#7
Originally Posted by Foxtrot
how do you regear for 700 bucks and how to do you get hy-steer for 350?
I think you are closer to 8k ...a nice stock truck around hear (washington) will run you about 2k ...I would start with a stock truck because you know that a truck thats already built a little ....for one was build cheeply and something is ready to break ...and it's prolly been ran hard
I think you are closer to 8k ...a nice stock truck around hear (washington) will run you about 2k ...I would start with a stock truck because you know that a truck thats already built a little ....for one was build cheeply and something is ready to break ...and it's prolly been ran hard
The problem with any 22r is that it is carbed. You can convert to EFI or Propane, but that costs more money. For $2k I think you can get a decent 1st gen 4runner, thus SFA and EFI.
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#8
nope website gears and install 500 take gears to friend to install 100ea. diff. burning out 33s priceless! My first gen is gonna be my dd. efi conversion is about 200 bux for everything, plus a weekend.
Tommorrow im gonna be picking up the 80 w/ a lincoln locked rear and 33s, when the guy bought it, it was stock, the 33s look killer on the thing, and the lincoln locker takes a welder and some time. And he is a jeep guy, i think, so i doubt he wheeled it too bad.
Tommorrow im gonna be picking up the 80 w/ a lincoln locked rear and 33s, when the guy bought it, it was stock, the 33s look killer on the thing, and the lincoln locker takes a welder and some time. And he is a jeep guy, i think, so i doubt he wheeled it too bad.
Last edited by Sonofmayhem; Jul 27, 2006 at 11:43 AM.
#10
I personally don't think that having a carbed engine is that bad of a curse. If it's because of fuel economy, then why are you 4x4ing in the first place? Secondly, you can swap out the Aisin and run an aftermarket that will allow you to sidehill better and what not, I dunno, maybe you like rolling your truck over a lot or something. I actually prefer a carbed engine, way less sensitive to vacuum problems and much easier to work on.
#11
Oh, not wanting to do the double post thing but.... If I ever see a truck on any ad or on eBay and it's got big rubber, lockers and just about anything else that screams "Off-Road" (except for important drivetrain changes) I weep for the guy that buys that vehicle. I see so many people flying all over the highway with huge rubber, their truck screaming and no gearing changes or brake mods to speak of. I'd try and make sure that the guy you bought it off of would be willing to talk to you after the sale to discuss things about the vehicle if they were to go wrong. For every person who does semi-regular work on their trucks there are 50 who don't.
#12
he is a jeep, regular off roader, i trust him, im gonna look carefully tonight, im not worried about the body, im gonna bob the bed when i get my welder, and im just worried about the clutch and brakes, this will be my dd until i can fix my 1st gen. sorry for the hijack
Last edited by Sonofmayhem; Jul 28, 2006 at 12:08 PM.
#13
#14
I guess you can buy a new ring and pinion and do it for less then 500 ...but for a soft locker I think your looking min like ...1k ...I also want to buy assembled 3rd so I dont have to screw with it ...
if your rear end isn't already welded together think about just shiming it till it locks instead of welding ..if you shim then you can always go back ...or if you drive on the ice or slick conditions cause you will be all over the place if your locked up
if your rear end isn't already welded together think about just shiming it till it locks instead of welding ..if you shim then you can always go back ...or if you drive on the ice or slick conditions cause you will be all over the place if your locked up
#15
A trail rig just for the trail is nice if you can swing it.
If id do it over...id probably do what i already did.
2'' blocks and Home made shackle on stock rears or Chevies
Rears up front or Stock Waggy springs or just buy some front spring($0-300)
I didnt change my driveshafts at all and ive had no problems with them and im lifted over 3 inches on 35's and have had 36's under it no prob
5.29's Aussie locker or that of the like up front
Welded rear or Detroit, true trac whatever floats you banna.(1000)
i got rims/tires/mounted and balanced for under a 1000 so look around
go to summit.com and get some creager soft 8's thats what im rocking(1000)
I also made my own bumper/sliders and am still working on exo stuff (250 for mine)
Shocks, im runing free 14 inch Bils in the rear and will run 12's up front(300)
truck was a trade and i didnt pay for the truck i traded so (0-1500)
i could see you getting it on the trail for under 5K easy
and hi steer and shocks if your a baller
If id do it over...id probably do what i already did.
2'' blocks and Home made shackle on stock rears or Chevies
Rears up front or Stock Waggy springs or just buy some front spring($0-300)
I didnt change my driveshafts at all and ive had no problems with them and im lifted over 3 inches on 35's and have had 36's under it no prob
5.29's Aussie locker or that of the like up front
Welded rear or Detroit, true trac whatever floats you banna.(1000)
i got rims/tires/mounted and balanced for under a 1000 so look around
go to summit.com and get some creager soft 8's thats what im rocking(1000)
I also made my own bumper/sliders and am still working on exo stuff (250 for mine)
Shocks, im runing free 14 inch Bils in the rear and will run 12's up front(300)
truck was a trade and i didnt pay for the truck i traded so (0-1500)
i could see you getting it on the trail for under 5K easy
and hi steer and shocks if your a baller
Last edited by NR_85; Jul 28, 2006 at 04:19 PM.
#16
Well i bought mine today and it has a lift, so im gonna fix an exhaust leak, smog pump belt, then on to body. its got surface rust, and holes in the doors, but the frame is solid, so im gonna sand down the rust and either go all black, or black bottom w/ camo, tan or brown.
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