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I have received all my parts so as promised here is a run down of my front brake conversion
1986-1995 IFS front hubs
SW13B calipers (ordered 1992 v6 4runner from autoparts, same as v6 pickup and t100 I believe)
1996 4x4 tacoma rotors
Stock solid axle and landcruiser rotors are 302mm diameter, the tacoma rotors are 296.8mm dia but I believe a bit wider. The pads I ordered are from a 1992 v6 4runner and they fit flush with the outside diameter.
You have to use IFS hubs for this conversion, the rotors slip over the hub, it is not held by the studs behind the hub like the stock setup. The outside diameter of the hubs has to be ground down to 6'' 5/8, which leaves about 1/8'' of play between the hub and rotor. It took my friend machinist 20 mins to do for both sides.
(stock wheel)
V6 calipers vs stock solid axle calipers. The v6 calipers have 4 large pistons while the 1979-1995 4 cyl calipers have one large and one small piston. The v6 calipers are bulkier on the outside and have cooling fins, which you will need to grind a bit to fit your wheels if you are not running spacers (more on that later).
You have to mount the calipers on the outside of the ears on the knuckle. After all the reviews I have read this should not be a problem, people have ran this way on all sorts of rigs with many tire sizes without issues. There are many ways to mount them, some people drill out the holes to 9/16'' and tap the knuckle, this way a bolt can be inserted on the oposite side of the original setup. For me, I grinded the threads smooth on the knuckle and used a m12x60 grade 8.8 metric bolt with a nut. I am very confident of this setup but I haven't used the truck yet (and will not before this summer).
What you also have to do is use a spacer (washer) between the caliper and knuckle so that the caliper fits centered on the disc. I can't tell you the exact size of the washer, you will have to try that yourself.
Here is what it looks like without a washer. the disc rubs on one side
With the washer installed, this is the space I had on each side:
Note that I did not have to grind the calipers, however all the other how-tos I have read said that you need to grind it, I don't know why I didn't have to do it on mine. This is the picture I found that shows what other people had to grind.
Here is a picture that shows how much the cooling fins of the caliper sticks out compared to the surface of the rotor. This is before any grinding.
Both my stock wheels and 15x8 wagon wheels almost fit, I didn't have to grind a lot, but from other how-tos I have read it all depends on the wheels. Many people had to grind the cooling fins flat. As far as I am concerned this does not affect the integrity of the caliper, you can grind the cooling fins flat if needed but I don't recomend doing more than that. Here is what I did. I have about 1/4'' clearance between the caliper and my stock wheel and about 1/8'' for my wagon wheel. More than enough.
The outside is not a problem either both on stock wheel and wagon wheel.
Right now my calipers are drying after a fresh coat of high temp paint and engine clear, I will have pictures of the finished product tomorrow or monday.
Hope this helps someone, I will do the same with my rear disc conversion once that is done.
Nice! Just did my v6 brakes over the weekend (standard v6, not taco). The LCE rotors are sweet looking and seem to work great! I'll have to grind my cooling fins later, didn't realize I'd need to until I tried to put the wheel on. Luckily I had some old 1/4" wheel spacers in a parts box and that rectified the problem but the clearance is still a little too tight for my liking. I'll post up a review/install when I do the front discs on the rear.
I'll share what I did in hopes of it helping others.
Most of my parts came from the same truck, a 1995 4Runner I found at the local PnP. It was in a wreck and flipped. I used the calipers and hubs from this truck. The truck must have been recently serviced because the pads were almost 95% and the bearings were freshly packed. I reused the pads and kept the bearings for trail spares just in case. I also found some Taco rotors that same day and had them turned down. Maybe total at the PnP foir everything was around $45.
I cleaned everything, packed and installed the bearings and used my 4 inch grinder to turn the hubs on the truck to the size I needed so the taco rotors would fit over them.
As for the caliper mounting I drilled everything out to a 9/16 and used a nut,bolt combo and so far have had no issues. Dont for get that washer in there between the mounting ears and the caliper, its a 2.54 mm iirc.
I had to barely grind my calipers to get my rims to fit. I have recentered HUMMER rims. Also I didnt have to get new longer studs either. Guess I Got lucky on that one.
I upgraded the booster to a "rebuilt" turbo booster from Rock Auto and used the master cylinder from the 4Runner. Added a prop valve and residual valve.
For the rear I went the easy route. I ordered the complete kit from TG. It went on super easy and has worked flawlessly.
As for performance, with heavy 37 inch tires I can lock them up at 50+ on the street. Only problem is that with a soft suspension it feels like the truck is going to flip end over end when I lock them up.
I used the write ups on Pirate and here as a guide. Ordered all my parts from Marlin.
So to be clear, if I want to go with the late 90’s calipers & rotors (98 left over from the Tundra brake upgrade) , I have to turn down the hubs and go with longer wheel studs? I am likely missing something.
or maybe go with the FROR kit and just do some grinding and upgrade the booster and MC?
This is a driveway type off grid upgrade so I am looking at the simplest easiest way to go. I actually have an extra 85 front axle, so my most likely plan will be to go through that axle and do the upgrade and then swap them out.
planning to use 1st gen spare 16 x7 “ wheels eventually running 235/85 R16 Toyo ATlls On the way to work...
so what am I missing?
Thanks
Last edited by ArcticTaco; 11-17-2019 at 08:28 AM.
12-17-2013, 06:53 PM
. Luckily I had some old 1/4" wheel spacers in a parts box and that rectified the problem but the clearance is still a little too tight for my liking. I'll post up a review/install when I do the front discs on the rear.
