gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

I am gathering parts and info for my brake upgrade, and I noticed there seems to be a lot of possible setups and contradictions on what to use. I would like to know what you guys used and what worked, didn't, your handbrake setups, master cylinder, booster, prop valves, do you have to used IFS hubs or not, custom hand brake cable setup? etc...

Thanks for sharing and I hope this will be an informative thread that will help others in the future.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

So far I have slotted solid front rotors to do a rear disc conversion with brackets to use 93-97 buick regal rear calipers which has a hand brake lever. I also want to buy 92+ 4runner v6 front calipers with landcruiser ventilated rotors, however I have been told that I am better off using 96+ tacoma front rotors, but still don't know what is the advantage of one over the other (got more research to do on that). I also want to upgrade my master cylinder and brake booster, but from what I have read the only booster option is from a turbo 84-88 truck, which is damn near impossible to find used and discontinued new. A willwood adjustable proportioning valve seems to be the way to go but I have also read about valves that have to be used to keep the rear system pressurized all the time, I need to find more info on that as well.

scuba

Not swapped yet, but my setup will include IFS hubs with the FROR tacoma brake mounting kit with tundra front brakes.
Won't be able to beat that setup, IMO.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

I'll beat your setup.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Apart from the increased track (1,5" I think?) Is there another advantage to swapping ifs hubs or is it something you must do with certain brake swaps? Also scuba do you plan on upgrading booster and master to take full advantage of the tundra setup and if so what will you use?

Rowdydudeman

i went with calipers from a 95 4runner, a 15/16" mast cyl (firstgen) cuz i cant get the double dia booster, vented rotors from a landcruiser aaaaaaaaaand... *rakes brain* something else that im forgetting. works great, haven't had time to do the rears yet though. time will allow for the rear upgrade one of these days.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

I have found that 96+ tacoma rotors are 296.8mm and that 81+ fj40 are 302mm, same as 79-85 solid front rotors, not sure how important that 5,2mm diametre difference is.

Rowdydudeman

bigger is better when it comes to braking imo. if you went with taco rotors you'd have to use their calipers too.
I spent like $80 for my brake upgrade, and that's with me buying new rotors ($25 a piece vs $20 for used ones at the JY).

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

From the information I got you can use 96+ tacoma rotors with 88-95 ifs calipers, can anyone else here confirm that?

edit: you have to use ifs hubs.

scuba

I'll bite. How do you plan on doing that?

No. On the Tacoma's, it's not necessary to upgrade the booster for the Tundra swap.

Never heard of that.
The Tacoma rotors don't bolt on to the knuckle/ hub body like the old school rotors do.

85sr5excab

Sub'd

SCToy

I use the landcruiser rotors with the late model IFS calipers. Works very well with my custom carbotech brake pads.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

I got a great deal on some vented tacoma discs so I will be able to confirm what works and what doesn't with that setup. Here is the info I have so far:
You need ifs hubs where the OD needs to be turned down a bit
96+ tacoma/4 runner rotors
ifs v6 calipers that need to be grinded in a couple of places

See post #4 here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...e-upgrade.html

See post # 13 and 21 here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...o-spacers.html

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Are you looking for solid REAR axle brake upgrades too? If so, here are mine:

-Rear disc brake conversion bracket from Low Range Off Road
-Chevy disc brake rotors with a modified center bore from Low Range Off Road
-1982 Monte Carlo brake calipers - Advance Auto Parts
-Rear braided stainless steel Toyota to GM conversion brake lines from Low Range Off Road
-Toyota 1" bore master cylinder - yet to purchase
-2lb residual valve - yet to purchase
-Manual load proportioning valve - yet to purchase

Total conversion cost should be in the neighborhood of $400 when everything is done.

I'm still building the truck, but here are some pictures of the conversion:

Brackets mounted with all drum hardware removed:




Test fit to see how much of the "nub" I had to remove from the calipers:






Test fit with the old wheels:







Mounted with rotors:







All new brake hardlines:



Mounted with new 15" wheels and braided stainless brake lines:



Can hardly tell they are there with the wheels on:



Another option is to use Cadillac Eldorado calipers that have the e-brake integrated, but I'm planning on either using a hydraulic line lock for an e-brake or a t-case e-brake. If I go with the line lock, I will plumb it to the inside of the cab along with the load proportioning valve in order to have easy access to both.

I just used the stock braking system up front since I feel that they are plenty adequate for what I plan on doing with my truck. Feel free to ask questions.

83

Man, your truck is just going to be sooo lame.

Really nice stuff.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I know, I'm hating myself for it... lol

cman1

iTrader: (1)

not to mention really cold this winter!!! hehe.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Thanks kawa that was very detailed! As for line locks is it true that if you leave it on after a while it looses pressure? And is a residual valve used to keep pressure at all times in the rear calipers? (read that somewhere I think)

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

A good line lock shouldn't lose any pressure from what I have heard. I'd still leave it in gear when it is parked - I'm more concerned about having an emergency brake while the truck is running so I don't have to turn the truck off if I need to get out or something.

The residual valve just keeps a little bit of pressure on the rear brake line due to the increased volume of the GM calipers over the factory drum cylinders. It prevents the rear brakes from "Stealing" pressure from the front brakes which will result in a squishy pedal and weaker brakes.

Bingle

I am currently in the process of getting the parts (come on Christmas!) but here's my plan/parts list:
Installed:
t-case e-brake - Sky mfg IIRC. Has worked great for quite a few years.
1" bore MC w/front and rear residual valves (fj80 I believe)

To be aquired:
Lce slotted drilled V6 rotors for solid axle conversion
V6 callipers
Manual prop valve
These
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index...onomy-kit.html
So I can use my drilled/slotted rotors and callipers from my front on my rear axle and save a few $.
Anyone use this kit? Seems like a good idea to me, especially cuz I already have the t-case e-brake so callipers with e-brake aren't a concern for me.
Any comments on my planned setup are more than welcome, hopefully I'm not missing something.