OK, got my motor down to a short block. What else should I do? I'm replacing the timing chain, metal guides, new clutch. should I get the block decked? I don't suspect it but I'm already here so ? And I pulled the pan, a little bit of debris(metal, plastic, unsure) again, I don't think it was too bad, but what should I look for? there weren't any quarters down there, so I can't compare sizes of what I did find. How come those are the people who post pics? they are so lucky that there just so happens to be a coin but what should I look for/advice

 

Well....give all the rods a little shake from underneath the truck to see if there's any play. If you can move them around, you're looking at possibly time for a rebuild. Otherwise: oil pump, water pump, headgasket (obviously), front main seal, rear main seal. Have a machine shop clean the oil pickup tube. If you have an FSM or other manual, it will describe how to check the block & head to see if they're flat. Definitely check that out. Otherwise you put it all back together and you've still got a headgasket leak. I'd say almost no matter what, bring the head into a shop to have it flattened out.

I think a little crap in the pan is probably normal on an older engine, but you do want to make sure everything's tight on the crankshaft and in the cylinders, otherwise you'll be back in there before long. Good luck! It sucks not having money to do all you want to do, but there's a lot you can do for your engine now that you're in this deep. Just take your time & clean everything really well.

 

And hopefully you won't go through what I did...I mean it was great in the end because I've got a rebuilt engine, but I'm broke. Couldn't afford it, but wasn't going to sell it, so I'm still paying that and the tranny off. Everything I took apart, I found more wrong. It was just time for my truck. How many miles do you have? I think mine was abused, but it was trashed at 160,000. If you get in there and there's some play in the piston rods, and it looks like the block needs to be decked...rebuild time. More money, but there's just no reason to button the engine back up with those issues still in there.

If it goes that direction, do you have a backup vehicle? Is work in walking distance? That all helped me keep the truck rather than selling it. I can walk to work, and I still had a little Subaru at the time that I was keeping until the truck was up & running. For a shortblock rebuild, you're looking realistically at around $4-500 for machine shop work (cleaning, decking, boring, honing), and about $400 (I think?) for a master rebuild kit from engnbldr.com or your kit of choice. Pricey...but you can drive away with a new engine for under a grand...

But hopefully your shortblock still has some life left.

 

thanks a ton 83. seems we talk a fair amount on here. I'll have to check the rods, didn't know about that, or the oil pick-up tube. I did have the head machined while that was out the first time, so that's good. I'm kinda thinking I'll drag the block to the shop to get it decked. My impression is the P.O. was just lazy with maintaining it, and put crappy parts in it by poor mechanics.
I'm not too worried about the stuff in the pan, looked like chain rail bits and random metal. Kinda wonder what the longer bits were but they were real thin and probably only 3/8 of an inch long.
There's about 163,000 miles on it so it's probably about time to give it some love and make sure everything is right.
I guess I'm lucky I grew up racing mountain bikes so everything in Fort Collins is within biking distance, and I just got laid off. Guess no one's got enough money for $30,000 motorcycles.

 

Yeah it's hard to tell but it seems like we're in similar situations. I do like that our pre-84 section is bit smaller and closer than some of the other sections.
Almost exactly one year ago I had done some wrenching but really didn't know a thing about anything, then I bought my truck...got a lot of good help on this site and even though I still don't know very much, I know what I've been through! I was planning on replacing my timing chain and maybe oil & water pumps. If I had done just that, I would have spent that money and time and then probably been broken down on the side of the road with a blown head gasket or spun rod bearing or piston hole punched through the block or something not too long after!

Looks like you've got more confidence than I had last summer since you don't need much convincing to pull the head or take the block out of the truck, so you're in better shape than me.

 

yeah, that's the benefit of having been turning wrenches for 10 years, just not too much on vehicle engines. I'll tear right into a ski lift, but more training on that so a bit of guiding advice is needed to cars.

 

by the way, what's the reasoning behind taking your oil pick up tube in the machine shop? do the tend to pick up garbage? clog with sludge and contaminants?

btw, I like the round headlights in your avatar. those are new, right? I seem to recall your truck having the square ones

 

Yup, they're pretty new. Thanks. I really like them too.

That's cool that you've got wrenching experience. I'm still really new to it all, so I get intimidated pretty easily by stuff I haven't done before, but I'm getting better.

When I looked at my pickup tube, there were bits of rtv, metal chunks, and sludge caught in the screen. Don't want any of those getting sucked up in there. If yours seems clean you can probably skip that part, but definitely take a look at it and see if it could use a cleaning.

 

got my motor back from the machine shop, new pistons, rings, rod bearings and crank bearkings. The ridge at the top of the cylinder was removed, and there was something wrong with the surface of the cranks at the main bearings. That was fixed. There was also a bit of what looked like rust in the cylinders that is now gone as well. My question is what is the "best" way to break this motor in? Advice? Opinions? Can I now run synthetic oil without adverse effects?

 

Awesome! I'm glad you're getting close. I heard a lot of conflicting stuff about breaking it in, but the kind-of-consensus seems to be to drive it the way you'd normally drive it. Don't baby it, but don't redline it, either. Do not lug the engine. That's bad for it in general, but especially when it's breaking in. High throttle is really good for seating the piston rings. It can be kind of hard to get high throttle without high rpm and not lug the engine...but taking it over a mountain pass or something is good, where you're basically flooring it but not really higher than 3000rpms.

Don't use synthetic until it's broken in. Have fun!!

 

sweet man, thanks. I'll just pull my trailer with some weight on it maybe. or drive up cameron pass. it's pretty long so I'd imagine that once would be ok?

 

No problem. No idea...I don't really know anything, just what I've heard from people. I don't know how fast it will happen. I know a major part of breaking an engine in is getting the rings to seat, and high throttle (which is different than high rpm..) is a good way to seat rings. Once that happens you'll stop burning oil. Not sure if it's a good idea to tow or not, but if it's not a heavy load I wouldn't think it would matter. You can read through this...hot topic. A lot has to do with motorcyles but it should apply. I guess in the end, the best advice seems to be to not baby it, but not abuse it.

http://www.autoblog.com/2005/11/21/m...break-in-tips/

 

360-263-6675 JOHN'S FOREIGN ENGINES www.My4n.com

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ENGINE CARE


Thank you for purchasing an engine. If you have any questions please call at the number listed above.
To attain the best performance on our used or reconditioned engines, it is recommended that our installation and operating instructions be followed, when installing and operating this engine.

1. The water pump, timing belt front and rear main seals on used and reconditioned
engines must be replaced with new ones.
2. Oil pan, strainer and pick up screen must be cleaned and inspected prior to installation.
3. Before starting engine remove coil wire and crank engine over until there is good oil
Pressure. (Until oil light goes out.)
4. Catalytic converter must be inspected to make sure it is not clogged. A clogged converter
can cause damage to engine rings on a rebuilt or new engine because of back pressure.
5. Check complete cooling system, including, specifically, without limitation to all
components of the cooling system, i.e. belts, hoses, freeze plugs, radiator, fan, fan switch,
water pump, heater core and thermostat.
6. Blow out intake and exhaust ports to remove any loose particles that may go (fallen) into
cylinders and cause damage.

IMPORTANT!
Before start up, cylinder head must be retorqued and valves readjusted to manufacturer's specifications and once again after the engine reaches normal operating temperature and once again at 500 miles.

Oil and filters must be changed before start up and again after first 500 miles and then every 3000 miles. Receipt for lubricant, filters and service may be required.
FAILURE TO PERFORM THESE OPERATIONS VOIDS WARRANTY.
Follow the periodic maintenance as set forth by the original manufacturer
to keep your warranty intact.

We will not warranty engines that suffer damage from improper installation, improper break in, overheating, lack of oil, fuel wash (running rich), dry start, detonation, pinging, over revving, fuel additives, use of silicone, plugged exhaust, accidents, fire, theft. Or any kind of abuse or negligence!!

 

IMPORTANT!
Before start up, cylinder head must be retorqued and valves readjusted to manufacturer's specifications and once again after the engine reaches normal operating temperature and once again at 500 miles.

 

you will not beleive how much the bolts will turn after just 15 min of run time on a fresh head gasket. SO TO RECAP, INITIAL TORQUE, 15 MIN RUN TIME ANOTHER TORQUE AND THEN AT 500 MI ANOTHER TORQUE.