Rear Transfer Output Yoke Nut Backing Off
#1
Rear Transfer Output Yoke Nut Backing Off
I have a 1980 Toyota 4x4 with a newer 5-speed and forward shifter transfer case. My rear driveshaft fell out last week. Apparently the nut that holds the yoke to the transfer case on the rear driveshaft backed off. I removed the driveshaft from the yoke, and put the yoke back on the transfer case, and torqued it to 110 ft/lbs. Before the driveshaft fell out, I was experiencing quite a bit of vibration (as could be expected), but didn't feel any play in the driveshaft, so I wrongly assumed I had a bad tire. I should have noticed when my speedo quit, what was wrong. Anyhow, once I reinstalled my driveshaft, the speedo worked again, and the vibration was gone! After driving it approx. 20 miles, my speedo started bouncing... and then eventually quit. Is it possible that my transfer case has a bearing bad? I'm lost as to why the yoke nut would have loosened up. What really has me curious, is the fact that my speedo quit working again, as if the yoke was loose again. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but I have not tore down a toyota transfer case to see how it works.
#3
was the nut staked? Is it the right nut? If ur not hearing any nasty sounds, I doubt that any bearings are toast... possible, but doubtful... It sounds to me, like someone had the flange off at one point, and either didnt stake the nut, or... used another nut that cant be staked?? Never seen that one before... do post up what u find!
#4
The nut (when backed off) did have markings of being punched into the output groove. When I torqued the nut down, I punched it in... which was in a different location then the original punch. I don't think its backed off again, but when I get home this weekend, I'll pull the driveshaft and check it. The speedo issue has me baffled. I hate driving around without a speedo... not that it's accurate with the 35's, but I figured out its about 10mph off at highway speeds. Its never had any issues until recently... But I did recently do a 63" chevy spring swap and 4" Allpro fronts. But I don't see how changing the springs would cause my issues. I'm thinking of getting another transfer case to put in it. That'll leave this one to do a 4.7 gear swap.... and that would be sweeeeet.
#5
you might need a new nut, locktight it and stake it. lost my driveshaft in my 79 an hour from home, bought a wrench, pulled the shaft, drove home in front wheel drive lol. just reread you might check to see if your driveshaft is long enough with the spring changes.
Last edited by donomite49; May 30, 2012 at 04:20 PM.
#6
Those nuts are listed as a "non reusable" part for a REASON. They are cheap at the dealership even. Do not reuse or restake. Throw it away and get a new one and avoid the exact problem you are having currently. 
:wabbit2:

:wabbit2:
#7
Thanks for that tidbit of info WabFab! I didn't know they were not reusable. I'll swing by the dealer and get one. The treads on the old nut looked good, as well as the male threads on the output shaft. It probably wouldn't hurt to order a new flange while I'm at it. I've thought about using some red loctite when I tear it apart this weekend for a little extra security. We shall see what happens! I'll try to keep ya'll posted on my findings.
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#8
Oh yeah... almost forgot. My rear driveshaft is the correct length. I haven't had it checked for balance, but its a stock driveshaft off of a different toy that happened to be the correct length (Don't know model). Perhaps I should run it by the driveshaft shop and make sure its good to go.
#9
I had my shaft balanced once, and I can tell ya from my personal experience.... unless it's waaaay off, and needs a couple oz to get it balanced, and you dont feel any vibe's, its unlikely that balancing it will have any affect on anything...
#10
#11
Scuba: did you not try an impact with a 30mm socket? I can't imagine that nut being that tight. I have a 3/4 impact that would have either taken that nut off... or broke the output shaft. That's crazy!
#12
I made a 6' holder out of angle iron, drilled 2 holes to bolt it to the flange to hold it still, I then took my 3' breaker bar and 30mm socket, and stuck it in a 6' pipe, stand on the holder, and push up on the pipe, and voila... pops right off!
Next time I tear into my diff (this weekend) I'll post up some pix of what I did.
Last edited by Team420; May 31, 2012 at 01:39 PM.
#13
Hey All. Can anyone tell me whats going to be involved in fixing my rear output shaft on my 87 runner w a 22RE. It's been a little loose for a while now, but this year the hum from it has gotten worse and now the rear driveshaft wobbles badly over 100kph. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanx
#14
^^^sounds like you need to do the same thing as op...before you lose a shaft.
#15
Can anyone say hi jack.....
Good to know about the 30mm nut, I will also be picking up a few new ones from the dealer.
I never had any problems removing the flange, just used my 1/2in breaker bar with a 30mm impact socket, and a screwdriver in the output flange, came off easier than expected. I find heat, penetrating oil and time/patience help me remove stick nuts and bolts. Took me a week to remove my cab mount bolts.
Good to know about the 30mm nut, I will also be picking up a few new ones from the dealer.
I never had any problems removing the flange, just used my 1/2in breaker bar with a 30mm impact socket, and a screwdriver in the output flange, came off easier than expected. I find heat, penetrating oil and time/patience help me remove stick nuts and bolts. Took me a week to remove my cab mount bolts.
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