so my 84 22R turned out to be an 85 so now I need to find a kit for a 85 22R but it is out and ready to be torn down but now it freaking snowed so that project is put aside... so prolly gonna try and work on bumpers... been looking at winches and found a 3000lb winch with fairlead, snatch block, 50ft 3/16 cable and remote for $50... will a 3000lb winch work for my 3600lb truck if i put in a longer 1/4" cable and use the snatch block to double the capacity or will the winch burn up after a coulple uses?

 

Hell for $50.00 I'd get it and give it a shot...

 

3,000lbs is extremely light duty for a winch. you might be able to use it a few times, but i wouldn't rely on it.

a good rule of thumb for minimum winch power is 1.5x the gross weight.

Al

 

I figures if i run a snatch block it doubles it to 6000lbs but I dont want to waste money if its only going to work a couple times... ill keep an eye out for something bigger...

also since i put my truck back to stock and reinstalled the stock push pull steering (bad idea) high steer was way better... ive been watching a build up on pirate and it really got me thinking... the build is an 85 xtra cab with 37s, no lift, and TG high steer, only real problem was the tie rod hitting the oil pan... so I have been looking to what I can do to fit high steer on my truck with no lift and found I can raise my motor w/4crawlers motor mount spacers and and if I have to build a .5" drop hanger and a 4" shackle just to clear the tie rod with out modifiying it

the build up
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ghsteer&page=4

 

got my flywheel resurfaced and it came out great now just need to find a clutch kit

 

got all my parts togeher and finally picked up my block and crank
block was bored .020 over and the crank was just polished since it as fine and uses standard bearings

 

here is the build process of the motor
pistons and rings installed and then on the rods

dropped the pistons in 1 at a time

all 4 pistons in at TDC

timing chain and kit went on next I used steal guides not plastic

next went on the timing cover along with the new oil pump and the water pump

then taped everything off once the wind died and took it out side for some paint

 

got the motor finished in inot the truck today took all day yesterday to get the old motor out and clean up the old parts and swap them to the new motor still need to finish bolting down the motor mounts and work on the crossmember but it looks like I will be ordering my bud built crossmember sooner than planned
old motor


new motor

 

Damn you've been a busy lil bee!!! Lookin good!!!

 

got it to fire and it sounds great now just need to work out the lil bugs like vaccumm leaks and install the drive shafts but the G52 5 speed fits in great just had to minipulate the cross member to fit

 

truck runs and drives great not but after only 2 weeks my G52 blew up on me so I spent 4 hrs today swaping in my old L45 and now its a great truck again... but while doing the work I got a great deal to run dual cases since now I have a spare tcase and some of the other parts to do it, should I go for duals or just leave my truck be and sell the tcase/parts and save the money... I DD this truck about 50+ miles a day and work in the mountains in dirt/mud.rock so 4WD is required but and some times I need low range but not 4WD I know twin stick is a good idea might do it anyways I do 4 wheel the truck and do like a challenge but dont go often enough to need double low but most of the time wish I had duals I also need a new crossmember mine keeps hanging up on rocks and is an anchor in the snow so I plan to get a low profile crossmember might as well spen the $$$ on a dual crossmember... should I go for it or save the cash and just do twin stick and my cross member?

 

Go for the dual!!!

 

so I caved and ordered the dual adapter and crossmember cant wait to get it and install it the wife gave me the go ahead since ive been talking about it for years and now can go for it so I hope its everything that they are made out to be

 

so I bent my front leaf springs both front mains are bent just behind the perch and they are negative arch on top of that so maybe time to buy some quality leafs rather than just another replacment (or go cheap) I love the stock look but just doesnt look lik I will get to have it that way looking towards ether TG 3" (or maybe just go cheap and do pro crap 3") I dont want RUF they are to soft and if you add leafs to stiffen them it goes to tall... if I have a choice I want to stay 3" or less budget isnt to important but quality is ppl say TG is a good brand I have never had a problem with them personally Id like to go marlin but they dont have 3" springs

 

doesn't downey have a 2" spring? or did they go belly-up?

i'm not a fan of RUF either, because it pushes the axle so far forward you have to cut the fender, then the bumper looks a little off, its just not that 'cool stock' look i like anyway.

wagoneer springs are about 4" lift, only push out the axle about half or 1" IIRC.... might be an option for you.

Al

 

you are correct, Downey went down for the last time summer of '09

 

I dont want to go any higher than 3" I wish downey was still around Id like to get there 2" springs... so far my plan is to get TG 3" front springs take out a leaf or two (since the bottom two leavs are to short to really do anything and then make do with with the rear till I can do something there but as long as it sits level Im fin for now... Id like to do new rear springs also to improve ride but not to sure what route to go maybe 3" trail gears or lifted 3rd gen rears not sure I would like to do the TG 3 link but no $$$

 

so I have been wheeling the truck like crazy ever since I did dual cases I went and ran eagle rock in CO springs and had a blast I am still running stock suspension and steering but te truck did great thanks to dual cases and LSD in the rear 3rd I was able to keep up with most of the built rigs but I am looking for a way to run high steer with out lifting my truck being low is awesome tippy lines arent to scary I am looking into custom tierods or even just modifying my pass side steer arm to accept a draglink to an IFS box

will post pics as soon I everyone emails them to me

 

few pics from the wheeling trip not much but we were all to busy having fun

 

this is how im planning to do high steer at stock height I got the TG kit all installed and the only problem was my tie rod my drag link never touched but the tie rod always hit the oil pan on bumps