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Nerf bars install

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Old 09-28-2018, 12:07 PM
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Nerf bars install

got some period correct nerf bars for my 83. Have holes for bolts, so I知 assuming I drill into frame?
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:04 PM
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nerf bars

Originally Posted by joesgarage View Post
got some period correct nerf bars for my 83. Have holes for bolts, so I知 assuming I drill into frame?
Anyone one have any pictures of side nerf bars installed on a 1983 4x4?
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:18 PM
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Can you post some pictures of your nerf bars? They probably have brackets for attaching to the truck.

I would assume you mount them to the frame, but you know what assuming means....

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Old 09-30-2018, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by joesgarage View Post
got some period correct nerf bars for my 83. Have holes for bolts, so I知 assuming I drill into frame?
To drill or to weld is up to you, as well as choosing to gusset or use anti crush tubes.

The typical location is just below the tire centerline, such that if you are sliding over some obstacles the tires can pick up and climb over.
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:05 AM
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when I had my old 84 with nerf bars I sort of remember the rear of them mounting to the rear spring mount, but sold that thing 21 years ago and the nerf bars got bent to crap in the days before sliders
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Old 10-01-2018, 10:59 AM
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If you're talking about some old Smittybuilt nerf bars (as opposed to modern rock sliders), the front mounts require unbolting the transmission crossmember and dropping it down just enough to get the nerf bar mount between the frame and crossmember. The rears do require drilling through the frame. Adding some sort of plate on the inside of the frame is highly recommended.
I know this because I just removed the ones that had been on my truck about a year ago.
See profile pic for what it looked like when they were on. (nevermind, guess they don't really show up, just the old Smitty front bumper)

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Old 10-01-2018, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bingle View Post
If you're talking about some old Smittybuilt nerf bars (as opposed to modern rock sliders), the front mounts require unbolting the transmission crossmember and dropping it down just enough to get the nerf bar mount between the frame and crossmember. The rears do require drilling through the frame. Adding some sort of plate on the inside of the frame is highly recommended.
I know this because I just removed the ones that had been on my truck about a year ago.
See profile pic for what it looked like when they were on. (nevermind, guess they don't really show up, just the old Smitty front bumper)
thank you! Was wondering why there was a flat piece of metal, opposite the frame, went to. I値l will be posting pictures soon of my old school nerf bars.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by joesgarage View Post


thank you! Was wondering why there was a flat piece of metal, opposite the frame, went to. I値l will be posting pictures soon of my old school nerf bars.


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Old 10-02-2018, 05:31 AM
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Yup, those are the same as my old ones.
The horizontal flat bar goes between the frame and crossmember at the front 2 bolt holes.
Glad to help!
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bingle View Post
Yup, those are the same as my old ones.
The horizontal flat bar goes between the frame and crossmember at the front 2 bolt holes.
Glad to help!
but you recommend a flat piece of metal as spacer on the inside frame? And the purpose for this?
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by joesgarage View Post


but you recommend a flat piece of metal as spacer on the inside frame? And the purpose for this?
not a spacer, "a plate on the inside(backside) of the frame" this acts as a load spreader.. If they are mounted with just a lock washer the stress point is very small and will cause a deformation which can lead to them tearing through the frame and pulling free. Just by torqueing them down you can get a dimple effect which will open up the hole you drill, add some load from impacts or using them.for loading and soon enough they are just hanging off the front mounts..

At the very least you want thick wide "fender" washers between the lock washer and the frame.

This is essentially the anti crush tube I was speaking about, but more diy friendly as it doesn't require a welder to secure the tube.
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:51 PM
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^^
What he said.
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:13 PM
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Think I have short bed bars, the back plate hits the bolt that holds down the bed. Unless I notch out the nerf bar.
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by joesgarage View Post
Think I have short bed bars, the back plate hits the bolt that holds down the bed. Unless I notch out the nerf bar.


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Old 10-09-2018, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU View Post


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Old 10-09-2018, 05:32 PM
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Might have to wait for Bingle to post and see if he recalls how his were mounted.

Grab some measurements from the front mount's rear hole to the rear mounts front hole as well as how far the hoop sticks out from the frame/mounts. Someone with the frame section of a service manual can tell you for certain if these are regular or extra cab, or maybe something not.designed for the 83 Yoda.
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU View Post
Might have to wait for Bingle to post and see if he recalls how his were mounted.

Grab some measurements from the front mount's rear hole to the rear mounts front hole as well as how far the hoop sticks out from the frame/mounts. Someone with the frame section of a service manual can tell you for certain if these are regular or extra cab, or maybe something not.designed for the 83 Yoda.
the front line up exactly the way they should.
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Old 10-18-2018, 11:08 AM
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Sorry, just saw this. Yeah, you likely have shortbox bars so you will have to do some custom work if you want them to go on your longbed. IIRC, mine lined up fine behind that mount. Between those cutouts in the frame maybe?
I would guess that vintage longbed Smitty's would be near unobtainable.
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