In search of a new 22r head, sorry if this has been covered before but i couldn't find all my answers. My head has multiple heli coils and bad valves, needs to be resurfaced and rebuilt. So Id like to go all brand new. LC engineering is outrageously expensive but i know its the best quality. Any suggestions on where to pick one up? also kits to rebuild? i believe i could handle it. Id like to get a performance cam and larger valves to go with my 38 Weber and bored bottom end. My truck is an 82. Therefore I have a duel row timing chain. That's whats confusing me as well, don't want to get the wrong head for the single rows, or does it matter? No i don't want to go 20r, because id have to get new pistons. Please post what you recommend for rebuild kits and heads, or any information at all is greatly appreciated. I really don't want to spend over 5-600 or are those numbers unrealistic...

 

you could try http://www.engnbldr.com/ but last time i checked they would only rebuild an early head. They didn't have a source for early 22r heads

 

don't know what part of Georgia you are in, but you could give Saul's Cylinder Heads in Albany a call 1-229-436-6017

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-84-Toyota-2-4L-Pickup-Celica-Corona-22R-Reman-Engine-Head-Loaded-w-o-Camshaft-/390817770030?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1983%7CMake%3AToyota&hash=item5afe8dea2e&vxp=mtr

 

You can have your current head rebuilt for those numbers or less. I can see no advantage to purchasing a new head unless your current is cracked or otherwise unserviceable. Generally, rebuilding a head is cheaper than buying a new one. Unless you're talking mods, like porting or screwing around with valve sizes.


You will not need bigger valves unless you plan on revving this engine high in the RPM band often and will have a cam large enough to warrant machining valve reliefs into the pistons. going to be circle-tracking? Increased valve sizes don't come into play in sub-4k applications unless the valves are exceptionally small. Stock 22R valves are quite adequate in any mild (under .500 lift) truck application. A 20R head has smaller valves than a 22R and may be modded, but I have no dyno data to show whether or not this matters in typical RPM usage with a typical under .450 lift, mild duration cam application.


While the benefits of a 20R head are greatly overstated quite often, there are benefits in most cases. No, you will not need new pistons. Why do you think this? To repeat myself for the bozillionth time, 20R heads are a bolt on modification to pre-85 22R engines. As in no modification required. As in the exact same thing as a 22R head, but with a different (better stock) intake manifold and different intake ports/valve sizes. It's not a mod worth bending over backward and jumping through fiery hoops for, but in your place it is a mod I would make. A 20R head with power steering bosses is the easiest to transplant for 4x4's.


As far as single/dual row chains the head doesn't make a difference. You shouldn't be running a head off of an 85 or later engine if yours is an 82 and has the original block in it. 84 and under and 85 and later engines are not bolt-on compatible in this way, and have different deck heights.

 

Don't know why you started talking of 20R heads? confused most the time anyway.
Think I agree with Jim, If heads not cracked why not rebuild it and if you do use larger valves you'd be wasting on a new head. If the heli-coils are in good and solid thats a good thing. Many install heli-coils in new castings so as not to fail later, theres more holding surface and less likely to pull out. No doubt your head is warped and after resurfacing I doubt it will warp again like a new head would but thats a guess. If thats true not so likely to blow a gasket. Would lov to hear a comment on this thought?

 

From his original post.

You don't need to use helicoils in the exhaust side if you use larger diameter, COURSE threaded studs in place of the factory units. Tap the head and run in the larger studs. Course threads are a better fit in this application. Fine threading an exhaust stud in an aluminum head is ridiculous, I have no idea why Toyota did it that way. Assuming you mean exhaust. The intake side should be helicoiled. If it's already helicoiled and they're fine then good, it's better than factory.

I don't think it matters if a head is new, resurfaced or not, they'll all warp under the right conditions. The head is the weak point. Iron block/aluminum head engines seem to have this problem more often than all aluminum engines. Probably has to do with the difference in expansion between the materials. Aluminum heads on iron blocks are just more sensitive to less than ideal conditions.

 

Well I got a newer22r head sitting in my shed. It has maybe 30xxx miles in it. It cane on the truck when I bought it and am in the process of doing the 20r head with 22r block build. You any where near Boise idaho? Haha