Well the time has come for me to swap in my new marlin l52 and I have everything I need to start on this thing clutch, rear main seal, slave, master cylinder, flywheel etc. Well I've never done this before I do a lot of my own work as I don't like anyone else to touch it lol. But I just wanted some info and tips that I should be looking out for and thongs I need to know to her this job done. I have no dought in my mind I can do this I just want to hear some problems Yall had and just to be ready for this thing, and I'm by myself thanks

 

youll need the L52 throwout bearing arm,are you going from an L43 4 spd? if so,youll need to message the forward part of the tunnel up about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch so the shifter wont rub,re-fill trans and trasfer case through the shifter holes from inside the cab...way easier! otherwise, its pretty much remove and replace.oh yeah,rent,borrow,or buy,but definantly get a tranny jack!!!youll thank me later. take your time and good luck.

 

My L50 bearing arm want work for the l52 yeah mine I'm pulling out is a l50

 

oh yeah,go out and spray everything down tonight with wd-40 or whatever ya got.

 

So do I need the arm thing your talking about i thought everything would be just a bolt in upgrade and thanks man for info

 

l50 arm should be good, l43 is shorter and wont work.

 

What is the best way to get the top two bellhousing bolts out

 

i use a really long extension with a wobble joint on the end,i have taken them out from the top,but it really sucks.make sure you leave the two side bolts in,then take the top ones first.

 

Ok thanks I'm head first in it right now gettin close to dropping it

 

I used 26" of extensions to get to the top two. Next time I am drilling holes in the firewall to get to them.
When you put them back in a little bubble gum helps to hold them to the socket.

 

Ok great to hear the bubble gum trick I just now got the damn tranny dropped it was a pain I just couldn't get it to come back far enough it was hitting the firewall but I finally got it dropped now working on the bearings and seals gettin ready to come back in with it

 

Well it was a success everything went ok for the most part but I'm so impressed with the marlin.crawler tranny this thing is amazing. Well thanks for the tips everyone

 

Good deal. I have gone through several craigslist transmissions (I have 2 spares) I would love to do a Marlin trans just to have the reliability factor. Dropping a trans is a PITA.
Enjoy it

 

congrats!!

 

I would have left the rear main seal alone, but otherwise good work!

Tranny is not a complicated job, just an akward one. That thing is just big and bulky and unevenly weighted.

 

Why would you leave the rear main alone

 

This is from Marlin. I know nothing personally about it, only this:

4. Rear engine seal.

In almost all cases the rear seal will not be leaking. After removing the clutch assm and flywheel, and then the backing plate, carefully inspect the rear seal around the hub of the crank. Is it actually leaking, or is it the capillary action of the leaking valve cover rear half moon seal that was running down the back of the engine.

If it is not leaking, you have two choices:

A. Replace the good seal;
This is risky business. Remove the rear real, sand the hub of the crank, prelube the sealing lip of the seal and install it being very careful not to damage the seal during installation by hammering directly on the seal body. Then you need to hope that the new seal does not line up and contact directly on the worn area that was caused from the old seal. Never use a stainless steel speedy sleeve on the front or rear hubs of the crankshaft. They are very difficult to install straight, and because the steel is so hard, the seal does not lap in correctly and will always leak in time.

B. Leave the good seal alone;
This is the way Marlin advises. If the seal is not leaking, leave it alone. It has properly lapped in and is doing its job. I leave it until the motor is completely worn out and then you can properly replace it at that time. I have replaced more leaking seals due to customers who have installed a new seal when they did a clutch job. Only to develop a new leak later.

 

I agree. I have done it so many times now I just don't look forward to it.
Next time I hope it is to drop a W56 with a 3RZ in

 

Well I guess I'm gonna cross my fingers cause I replaced it and I don't think it was leaking, and I did feel the grove your talking about on the crank. I wish I would have known this ahead of time and I did put a Toyota seal back in so I just hope and pray. I have a brand new tranny now and clutch and I was hoping to never have to do that again until way down the line

 

Same here (minus the W56 and 3RZ! Though that would be awesome). The first time I did it, it was an 8 hour, all day job. Now it doesn't take more than 3, tops.