Link?

 

Boom:

 

thattl work

 

Dang, stealing my pictures again?! I was actually just able to post that exact picture LOL

I was thinking a flooded condition when you said it took a while to turn over, but eventually did. Then you said that you had the return line plugged and the flag went up. So basically what is happening is that you are force feeding your carb. The return line is there so that when the fuel pump is pumping more fuel than the carb actually needs, it will return the excess to the fuel tank. It is also there to help relieve pressure on the fuel line to the carb when the engine is shut off. So with out it, I imagine that you have some residual pressure on the fuel line to the carb that is flooding the carb while the engine is not running which would also indicate that you either removed your fuel shutoff solenoid or it may not be working properly. Does the engine diesel down when you turn it off?

And the return line to the take should be located on the passenger side fender wall. You can see it here in the very top of this picture:


Good luck and I hope it works out!

 

Not sure if it your problem, but I have seen several trucks with clogged return lines on both injected and carbed trucks. May be due to the humidity of the area that I live in or the poor quality of fuel that we have now a days. If I recall right on a carbed truck both the supply and return line is on the inner fender.

I try to blow on the return line with the pressure of my lungs and see if it clear. If it is clogged, I use a gear oil bottle cap as a funnel and fill it with Marvel Mystery oil and let it soak a few days and keep filling it as it works it way thru the lines. Then I clear it with a high pressure air hose to clear the lines with gas cap removed. If you just try to clear it with high pressure air, I feel you could compress the debri in the lines. The mechanical pump does put out a lot of fuel pressure and seems in my mind it could cause flooding.

You also have an in tank filter that I have seen clogged with a varnish like shell around it. You can see one I have in the background. Fuel filter is hard as a rock also.


Part number for a new intank filter is #77023-12050. On ebay it is called a TOYOTA FACTORY NIB FUEL FILTER SUCTION TUBE DIESEL. It was selling for $4.50 when I finally found it. I paid $15 at Toyota.

 

Do the first gens have that in tank filter

 

Yep! Do a search on eBay like Terry said - That's where I got mine. My old one was pretty wrecked too.

 

Hopefully it's not that little filter in the tank! I really don't feel like dropping that damn tank out of this truck.
I re ran my fuel cutoff solenoid ground to the battery and I tested it and it is clicking and working fine. Never had this rig diesel.
I suspect that return line is the problem.
I blew the lines out this morning and I am about to take it for a spin and see what happens.

 

I have seen this filter on 79-88 trucks I have worked on. I am sure they are the same up into the 90s and not sure which year they discontinued the 22r motors (carbs). Even though it says it is for a diesel, it is the same filter. The capital letters (in above post) are a copy and paste from ebay. With shipping it was about as cheap to get it from Toyota.

When I work on a truck tank, I loosen the drivers side bed bolts and remove the passenger side and tilt the bed to the side and safely support it. Dropping a tank, the hoses are not very long and some of the bolts that hold the tank to the frame tend to break.

There is an external filter sitting near the post on the frame by the tank that probably needs changed in most cases as well.

 

Give us an update toyospero? How is the truck running?

 

I have yet to test it out. My kitty cat is sick and as a result my life has been put on hold.
Hopefully tomorrow I can run into town where the starting issue takes place. Then I will know for certain if the return line was the problem.

 

How's the truck running?

 

Do you pump the gas pedal before starting? If so don't. Pumping the pedal engages the accelerator pump, this squirts a small amount of raw fuel into the throat of the carb. In the absence of vacuum the fuel is not atomized. This would explain the flooding issue. As noted by the puff of black smoke when it fires up.
There are some adjustments to the accelerator pump circuit depending on the carb setup.
You can see the pump work with the engine off. Remove the air cleaner look down the throat of the carb with a flashlight, actuate the linkage once and you will see a squirt of gas spray into the top.

 

Have you ever considered that you might have a weak coil assembly. Once the coil gets warm externally and internally, it can slow down the amount of spark to where it is almost nothing. Once the coil cools down again it will have a lot of spark to crank the truck. The coil could basically have a small internal short. With little to no spark the carb could be flooding out while trying to crank the engine.

 

thanks everyone for the help. I found the issue! Power piston in the carb was broken. Sort of half working staying open and then shut at random times.
I did a little research on what the function of it is and I still really don't understand completely. I had to get a new carb. The thing is buried pretty deep in the carb. The thing that is perplexing is this same scenario happened on the previous carb I had. I did change the coil out. With the new carb and coil the thing is running perfect.

 

so I guess nobody gets the $20???

 

I believe the "power piston" is the same as the accelerator pump. Which is what I said before. Not interested in the twenty just glad to here you solved it.

 

Darryl gets it!
Send my your paypal info!

 

Damn Darryl wins on technicalities! LOL Glad you got it figured out!