drokliss

So, when I went to replace what I thought was just bad ujoints in my front driveline today, I realized that the driveline yoke is hitting at the transfer case end.

I am in need of (cheap) options. I had thought about a double-cardian front drive line out of a newer 4runner from the pick n pull place.

Other thoughts please?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Is this the stock front dshaft?

Take some pics please.

:wabbit2:

drokliss

Yes, front drive shaft. It has a 4" lift, so I figure the angle is too steep (obviously). Just looking for good options that don't cost a ton.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

you should already have a double cardan--it will be up at the TC flange
hi pinion or cut and turn the knuckles...

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Or dual cases.

:wabbit2:

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

^^yep, that is how I fixed mine

drokliss

cutting the knuckles sounds the cheapest, but I assume there is a downside to doing so.

OCD, definitely no double cardian on that bad boy. Are they spendy? Can I convert the stock drive shaft?

no dual cases in my near future, unfortunately.

drokliss

Since I should, but don't, I should theoretically be able to add one, no?

From what I can tell the pinion on the front diff is pitched up, so the truck may have originally had a double cardian at the top?

The rear diff is also pitched with shims, but same setup, just dual u-joint, based on other diff-tcase diagrams I've seen here, I should remove those shims.

Thoughts?

blake.nemitz

just get a newer style yoke, notice in the pic how one has longer ears on it that the style yours has. i had the same problem running a single joint on both ends and solved it by using rear shaft yokes and flanges,

blake.nemitz

if the ears off the tcase were longer then it can angle more, i used a 95 runner rear shaft for the parts and no longer binds even at full droop

sebastianholmes

the 84-95 trucks and 4runners have the absolute best driveline joints when it somes to travel. just get one of those like stated above

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

since you are in portland, I would recommend http://drivelinetech.com/home.php.
Brian built my rear driveshaft for me.
website says he is only building new driveshafts, so I am not sure if that means he will not retube and add a CV for you.
somebody replaced your stock shaft for some reason..
here is a pic of my spare stock 1st gen shaft and the rear shaft Brian built for me using an 89 stock rear shaft with the CV out of 2nd Gen 4Runner:

another option would be one from Dave's:
http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...driveline.html
he doesn't use one for some reason but he has been doing it for so long I figure he knows what he is doing..

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Likely not needed, but easy enough to measure and see:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1

drokliss

As I suspected...the rear diff is pointed at the t-case, shouldn't be Guess I ought to fix that whilst I'm mucking about.

drokliss

The driveshaft yoke doesn't need to change, right, just the yoke that bolts to the t-case flange?

blake.nemitz

84 joints have the short ears to the best of my knowledge you need third gen rears to get the longer yoke fyi

and yea you will need the flange and the yoke off the d shaft. if you cut the weld off you can pull it out and put it in your front and hammer it in it will be centered, just make sure if you cut yours off, i would cut 3/4 of an inch into the tubing to make up for the linger ear, and weld er in. ive got pics in my album of building mine if you wanna check it out. i have the 5spd with chain drive tcase and it makes for a really short front shaft, i can run up to about 40 before it starts vibin but its a crawler so 4wd on the hwy is not needed

blake.nemitz

and my tcase angle look alot worse than yours.

drokliss

Great input, thanks man!

xxxtreme22r

wasn't another recent guy on here having the same issues?