That makes sense. One more question- if I fail the visual (For whatever reason) do I still have to pay?

 

Not a clue, it depends on the shop and local regulations. I suggest paying for a precheck first, most smog shops used to roll the cost of the precheck into the smog fee if you passed the precheck.

 

From what I can gather, the HAC goes to two vacuum ports on the carb (I believe it is the two ports closest to the radiator on the carb - they should be directly adjacent to each other and angled back towards the passenger side of the truck) and other goes to a T-fitting going from the VCV to the distributor vacuum advance (T-ed in between the check valve and the distributor). But like pumkin said, the HAC is not a smog requirement - you're best off leaving it out (unless you're getting smog tested at an extremely high altitude) when you go for your smog test. Plus, you need to do some research to determine if you even need the HAC. Look into what elevations you will be driving in and see at what elevations there is an effect on air fuel ratios and combustion for the 22R. You may find out that you don't even need it after all

 

So I didn't have this on mine. I had a eacv which looked pretty similar and had all the big tubing going to the smog pump, and then to the exhaust. I'm kinda lost. Any help would be great.

 

I am pretty much an expert in this now (I passed CA Smog W/ out the HAC, BTW) so what do you want to know?

 

The long and the short is: pull it all off. Cap the EGR and PAIR (exhaust manifold) parts. Remove every vacuum line. Re-add the vacuum advance per the earlier instructions. Re-time it. Drive it like you stole it.

 

YES! Nice work! It is harder to get it all working again than it is to remove, for sure. I've fought that battle as well.

 

Thank you! I added a bottle of "Guaranteed to pass" each time, but looking at the results I don't think I needed it. I made the mistake of not tuning the idle circuit properly, and when I passed I had 249 out of 250 HC in the idle test. It was quite a bit rich.

Well, there are some other systems in the carburetor that need to be hooked up. Like the high idle stop (if you have an automatic transmission). There are some richener circuits, too, but depending on your altitude you might get away without them. (Secondary power valve) things like that.

The mechanic kept saying how good the engine ran, and how good I tuned it XD

FYI, they're doing this thing now where they pressurize the fuel tank with nitrogen and test for leaks. It's absolutely insane, because the tank is vented to the charcoal canister. Under what conditions is it fully pressurized with six PSI? None!

The insanity of this state is mind boggling.

 

Thanks so much! I ripped out the smog pump and the eacv. And the pipe to the exhaust. Now just need to tap the exhaust and block it. Already installed the LCE egr block kit. Any way you can put up a pic of the only vacuum lines that need to be attached?

 

There are pics and instructions earlier in the thread, as well as a federal vacuum diagram (posted by thetundrawolf) that is pretty straightforward. The only vacuum you need is to the distributor vacuum advance. You will need a lot of 1/8" vacuum caps for everything else. You will also need to retime your motor after this process. Good luck!

 

Wow great write up. I took my clogged up smog setup off and it seems to run so much better. Thank you so much. I made my own block off plates also. Now I just gotta finish removing more vac lines and she will be even better. It's amzing how much cleaner the engine bay looks without all the pump crap. Thanks again

 

I have a 1989 2wd pickup that came from california. I bought it out west and drove it back to my home state of Maine. I removed the outrageous "smog pump" that leeched off the main engine pulley a few months back. I'm interested in doing a full de-smog but after just browsing through this whole thread, I'm not sure if there are clear enough directions here. It's very scattered and not direct. I saw mention of someone doing a detailed concise write up on it. Anything like that exist?

 

Here's the thing: if you have basic knowledge of the systems involved, you can do this. If you want perfect, step by step instructions for your model and year, you won't find them. Your truck, being an EFI 22RE, will be different than the one described on this thread, which goes heavily into a carbed vehicle.

On yours, the process will be different. Not having done one, I am not sure how different. On a carbed motor, you basically remove and cap everything but the vacuum advance, run a set of switched power wires to the fuel shutoff solenoid, retune the motor, and that's it. You don't need the computer anymore, and there are only 2 vacuum hoses (to the distributor) in the entire engine bay.

I don't know the RE motors well, but I suspect it won't be that simple. It can be done. Try calling LC Engineering for more specifics if you like, they probably know that motor better than anyone who doesn't work at Toyota. You will have to read a lot more forums like this one, and learn how the systems work, and learn what you can take off. Photo document and label every part you remove, so you can reinstall it if needed. If you don't like this forum, you can use those pics to create your own.

 

Thank you for the quick reply. I just realized that I had started reading the thread on page 3. I went back to page 1 and it all makes much more sense now.

I actually do have a 22r. Probably one of the last years the 22r was used in the pickup. First year of the 90s body style. It's a totally stock 2wd that is bare bones. Doesn't even have power steering.

 

No prob, glad you found more info. The best piece of advice I can give you is buy a Weber 32/36. It will make life SO much easier. Delete everything else, add the vacuum lines to the distributor, retime it, and you'll be good to go. The hardest part is getting over the fear of doing it. The 22r is really a simple motor, it doesn't need all that junk to run well.

Feel free to post questions if you get stopped somewhere. Also, I probably need to update the LCE links, their website is here:

http://www.lceperformance.com

All you should need is about 10 feet of vacuum line, and the below:

An EGR block plate
http://www.lceperformance.com/EGR-Bl...-p/1016038.htm

PAIR port block plates
http://www.lceperformance.com/mobile/default.aspx#P3058

O2 sensor block plate:
http://www.lceperformance.com/mobile/default.aspx#P999

 

Excellent, thank you. Why is it that a weber carb will make the job easier?

My largest concern in all of this is retaining gas mileage. My normal is 26.5 mpg. Sometimes 27 or 28 as well. Truck has almost 200 K miles and I know I have a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

A weber will make it easier for two reasons. First, the Aisin is a great carb, but it is 30 years old, and built for the smog package that comes with the truck. You can use 1/8 vacuum caps to cover all the ports in the carb, but for some reason those vacuum caps seem to rot and fail within weeks or months. The second reason is that the weber is simple, cheap, and works REALLY well. Parts and rebuild kits are everywhere for it when you need them, and are reasonably priced.

 

Is some type of adapter plate or kit needed for the weber 32/36 or does it bolt right on as is? Also, I notice that the 32/36 states that it is a manual choke - does this differ from the stock aisin carb?

 

There is an adaptor plate. LCE sells a complete kit with the adaptor plate, gaskets, and the carb.

 

Sorry, also there are both manual and electric choke webers available, at your preference. Mine is electric, pretty easy to hook up.