Hello all,

I recently purchased an '81 Toyota Pickup SR5 with 96k on it. I am replacing the timing chain and everything else while I am in there but have a few questions someone might be able to help me out with. First, my FSM says to remove the cylinder head but is that really necessary? Second, there is a pump and bracket on the passengers side of the engine that looks like it shares a bolt with the motor mount and timing chain cover; am I going to have to unbolt the motor mount to take the cover off as well? Thirdly, if I am doing all this work, why not put my efforts elsewhere and swap in a 22re for close to the same cost?

Thanks,
Nathan

 

Last question first. Only you can make that decision.

Really? Shares a bolt with the engine mount? I doubt it. Photo?

No you don't have to take the head off. Yes, you absolutely should.

Why not run a fresh head gasket anyway? If you're going to do all that work.
A new timing chain, head gasket, oil pump, water pump, and intake & exhuast manifold gaskets will make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

 

what Zach said +

The 22re would likely need the same servicing the R you have now does + you need the ecu, wiring harness, ect. I don't see how you could do that cheaper than freshening up the 22R. You already have the 2 row chain (a good thing) vs the single row with plastic guides the re's have. If you're going to go through the hastle of an engine swap, you might as well go to a 3rz, 5vz, 1uz, or 1/2jz engine. The 22re is not that much better than the R.

The pump you're talking about is likely the smog pump. Is there a pulley on it? Do you have AC? My 81 just had the reed box, not the smpg pump. If you are in an area that you don't have to do emissions checks check out Kawa's de-smog thread.

You should not have to touch the motor mount to remove the timing cover.

 

83: It looks like it shares a bolt with the motor mount. I'll take a picture of it later when I'm off work. I meant to ask about the head gasket and what else I should replace, any particular brand or style better than another?

Bingle: I was stocked to see the dual row timing chain in there. You are right that it would cost more initially to do the 22re swap but in terms of gaining fuel injection (I live at sea level and regularly am in the mountains), having a "new" motor, and the cost of my time, it might be more cost effective to me. I could be totally wrong though and that's why I am asking. Your asking about the pump, yes I do believe that is the smog pump underneath the a/c compressor (yes it has a/c) and yes unfortunately I live in California and smog regulation is relentless.

Is there anything else I should do or look out for while I am in the engine? I will be pulling the head off, probably today.

Nathan

 

Yeah a photo will help. I believe that it looks like it's going into the motor mount, but unless somebody did some crazy (and stupid) modification, it does not. It gets tight in there and it's hard to tell.

I went with a Victor Reinz headgasket through Rock Auto. Otherwise Toyota OEM.

I think my list is a pretty good one. Headgasket, timing chain and guides, oil pump, water pump, exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gasket. Probably thermostat.

New oil and coolant.

And my experience is that your exhaust manifold studs and/or bolts are going to be stripped. So a 13/32" drill bit and Helicoil kit is probably a good idea

Personally I'd take the head to a machine shop and have them clean & resurface it, too.

A way to chase the head bolt holes is a good idea. And some sort of compressed air to clean the oil and coolant out. Make sure they're dry so you get good torque. I used a bottle of office keyboard cleaner air stuff.

 

Oh, and there is also a round metal gasket that goes between the exhaust manifold and the start of the tailpipe that you could replace while you're there.

And in case you end up needing it, here's the info and part number for the helicoil kit:

Napa Balkamp Helicoil Metric Thread Repair Kit
M10x1.25
Part #7703020
12 inserts
HEL-5543-10

Or specifically ask the machine shop to check and repair those threads. I made the mistake of waiting until I had the head back on my truck, and found out they were stripped when I tried getting the manifold back on and up to the torque specs... Much harder to drill out and helicoil those holes once the head is back on the block. My spark plugs had also been cross threaded ( I like to believe this happend before I bought the truck last year), so I had the machine shop chase all those threads while they had the head.

Napa should also have a bag of Toyota/GM exhaust manifold bolts/studs, though they might not know they have it...Mine did, and it's an exact fit for my 20R, which should be the same as the 22R.

My intake manifold side of the head was all fine.

If you're up for more work, having the head off is the perfect time to de-smog, if you have any interest in that.

The only thing I did was buy the kit from LC Engineeing to block off the EGR ports.

 

To be honest, with the work it takes to change a t-chain without removing the head, you might as well just remove the head and follow the FSM guidelines. Plus, it gives you an opportunity to check in on your cylinder walls.

A 22RE swap will be much, much more work and money than a T-chain. If you're a master mechanic and really comfortable going through a wire harness, by all means, it would be your call, but if you want just a fun weekend truck the stock ASCO carb is pretty fantastic.

 

Sorry guys I cannot figure out how to upload a picture on here but whatever bolt it is I will make sure everything is supported just in case. So I have to remove the cam shaft bolt but keep the #1 piston at tdc and am having trouble doing so. The bolt on the camshaft will not budge. Any suggestions? Also there seems to be some play in the crankshaft bolt when going clockwise to counterclockwise and the rotation of the chain (about 10-20 degrees). Is this normal? Could it be play in the crankshaft bolt that I'm not seeing?

 

Crank on it Tranny must be in gear.

It will take a breaker bar. Pay attention to where the wrench (and your knuckles) are going to fly when it breaks loose. Slamming your knuckles into the truck, or your face, is not advisable.

For the crankshaft, put the truck in 5th, e-brake on, chock the wheels. That play is in your timing chain and transmission, and is completely normal.

It took me about a 3-4' extension on my wrench to finally break the crankshaft free. It had a couple feet of play before I was really putting pressure on anything.

Photos are easy. Either use a site like photobucket, then use the little mountain-scene icon up with the font and link controls up on the banner when you're writing a post, or go to your profile here and start a photo album and upload pictures to it. Then same thing...copy and paste the url.