I've been planning to put a topper on the '83, but so hard to find a good topper that fits. I found one for a 7 foot bed (from a Chevy C10), and was determined to figure out a way to seal the 2 inch gap!

I was going to use galvanized steel, but then realized I had some molding in the basement that would just fill the gap. I painted it flat black 'cause I could not find a charcoal grey. Not bad.



It has foam sealing pad/tape all around, and also between the molding and the front of the topper.

Here's what it look's like:



It is about an inch too wide, so there is a 1/2" overhang on each side. Not bad (more room inside, in fact!). Nice dark tinted glass. Looks good!



I wired a high brake light in, with a quick disconnect on the right side. I also wired in fused 12volts line from the battery (also used for trailer wiring adapter-got lots done this weeked!).



All ready for me and the kids sleeping bag!

 

Another view. Slightly too wide, and a couple of inches too short, but it can be done.

 

Not to bad I wondered if anyone had done this. I really want a camper top myself.

 

Bed length specifications, according to Toyota:

79-83 Standard Bed = 72.2"(6ft 0.2in)
79-83 Long Bed = 87.4"(7ft 3.4in)

84-95 Standard Bed = 75.0"(6ft 3in)
84-92 Long Bed = 86.4"(7ft 2.4in)

 

I just went and verified the length measurement. 7' 3" covers the front beam across, and makes it over the top of the tailgate. I think there might be some variation in build dimensions. There is also tapering from the front to the back on my bed. Maybe just over a half inch, but definitely there. And it is not like it has been abused, wrecked or otherwise bent...the tailgate has normal looking gaps at the top.

Bottom line is you'll need to measure before you buy!

Oh, and remember that standard double walled construction accomodating camper top CLAMPS won't work. You have to drill through and pin it on with metal screws. It takes a drill with short clearance from top to drill center. A honkin' 8 amp Milwaukee may not fit! You'll need to break out the old 5 amp craftsman

 

I believe those are supposed to be "inside" dimensions too.

So, questioning what the deal might be with that, I went out and measured my 88 Long Bed to see how long it really is. Well looky there...86.4" on the mark(exactly as specified), measured from inside corner(just under the "beam" in the front) to inside corner(at the top rear inner corner behind the tail light). ~87.9" outside to outside(measured from the same corners...on the outside). And mine HAS been abused, wrecked, and otherwise bent(just not in the right way I suppose). So go figure...

Not trying to be a smart ass...

 

I threw the tape measure down right in the middle of the bottom of the bed and get nearly 7'4" bed length. YUP! Specs are correct!!!

But the front on my bed is welded at the top shorter than the full bed length...


Not by much, but the top is also folded inwards with a 1.25" flat top. The back is also tapered inward at the top of the bed. It's slightly over 8'2" inside the top, and nearly 8'4" at the bottom! My measurements were OK, but my explanation sucked! I was concentrating on the dimensions where the topper meets the bed. It is bigger inside the bed!

SORRY about that!

 

Are you planning on finishing off the gap between shell/cab? Maybe fabricate something. I just think it will give it a cleaner look. Just my 2cents.

 

It's actually pretty invisible there-really subtle. In fact---Hardly noticeable since the paint is in such "weathered" condition!!

I do want to re-paint the truck, and I'll include the molding trim when I do that. Other than paint, done. Unless maybe you have some ideas?? I have new front fenders, marker lights, and taillamp assemblies for after new paint is done... But the motor needs attention before that (oil leak, carbtune, exhaust leak).



It rained last night here in KC. No leaks!

 

hey I wish mine would have been that easy I bobbed my bed twelve and a half inches to fit my shell....LOL...Looks good!

 

Why not use a piece of aluminum angle?
Wood is gonna deteriorate quickly IMO

 

Aluminum angle is a good idea-better than wood definitely. The wood is cedar, though, and it is sealed up pretty well. I used rustoleum spraypaint. I think it will last a while. Meantime, I'll keep my eye open for a piece of aluminum. Thanks!