Pri$erulz

I have a 1981 Toyota Pickup SR5 4X4 and I'm doing the hype weber carb conversion. I think my kit might be missing a few pieces but I'm really having problems with the vacuum lines. They were a disaster from the previous owner and I'm putting it back together. Does anyone have a picture of their CA legal vacuum lines with a weber 32/36 carb? I'm confused on the VCV and other vacuum lines on the passenger side of the engine bay.

Also, did anyone else notice that the spacer and gaskets that weber supplies doesn't properly fit the intake manifold ports? With the bolts matched up, the holes on the spacer were off to the right of the manifold by about 1/4"....


Thanks.

Pri$erulz

I ordered the spiral adapter from lcengineering and it gets here tomorrow. Hopefully that will solve the adapter/spacer problem. I'm confused on a few parts and am wondering if anyone can help I'd them.

I believe this is the VCV but I am not sure, it doesn't look the same in the diagram.



Next up are the. Vacuum lines and what they connect to on the left side, in the middle, on top of everything else in the picture. I can't find them in any diagrams and am wondering if I need them. The connections below should be VSV's if I'm not mistaken.



Here are the vacuum diagrams.




Thanks!

enigmaT120

Most of that stuff was removed from my truck before I got it, and the Weber was on. My original Weber adapters seemed to fit OK but were not air tight so I got a one piece -- not LCE's but one called Transdapt.

Can you do a desmog? There are a couple of threads on that, so that you would only have vacuum lines going to your distributor, no where else. I don't know if you live someplace where that is allowed.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Pretty sure that is the VCV. I see you have the middle tube labled "Charcoal" and by the diagrams you posted the middle port goes to the charcoal canisters.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Those are the VSVs and they are in the diagrams you posted. In the picture its the "VSV (AI-1)" and the three other things (not labeled) directly to the north-east of it. Now if you don't live an area where your vehicle must be smog inspected I highly recommend to desmog it. But I have a feeling your truck has to be inspected.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

mmmmm, all this smog equipment makes me crave spaghetti!

Pri$erulz, you have a CA smogged truck, but do you actually have the truck registered in California? If not, I'd recommend desmogging it or at the very least, rid yourself of the CA smog components. Smog is a pain in the ass to begin with, but when you throw in all the tree hugger requirements developed the lunatics in California that think that if they change the laws in their own state that they will save the world then it becomes an absolute nightmare.

Pri$erulz

Yes it's a ca truck and I still live in ca. I have to keep the smog equipment and am building it smog legal.

I got my carb installed with the cl engineering spiral adapter. I spliced the choke back into the original connector to the wiring harness. I tried starting the truck yesterday and there was no power. The headlights work and I made sure the battery was charged but the truck does not crank.

Any ideas of what to check? The truck started just fine before I replaced the carb so I am guessing I wired something wrong...

Thanks.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Check the ground wire to the starter

Pri$erulz

I found a part that I missed in the install with an electrical connection on it. My next question is what do I wire it to? I have the electronic choke wired into the original harness that went to the original carb.
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There are three other wires on the harness, two of which went to the same valve/part on the Aisin, one white and one black.
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Is it the white one?

Also, could this be the reason it's not cranking? I didn't check the starters ground yet; my garage is flooded from the rain.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

If it isn't cranking, it shouldn't be a carb problem. A weber will run with absolutely no electrical connections which leads me to think that it is a ground or lead issue to your starter. That spade connector in that first picture that isn't connected is your fuel cut off solenoid. On the Aisin carb there is a green connector that has the wire you need in it try search something like "22r fuel cut off solenoid" on google and you should find a picture of which wire to use.

Pri$erulz

If the ground wires aren't grounded from that green connector you are talking about, could that be he source of the ground interruption rather than the starter?

The reason why I'm asking is I haven't touched the starter and don't see why anything would be lose. It's been raining and I've been working the last couple of days. I'm off tomorrow and will have a chance to look at it but for now it's just my photographic memory.

Thanks for naming that part, that really helped out a lot.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

This link has some webber carb related trouble shooting links

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...2-36-a-240521/

It should still cranks. These trucks are 30 years old. Random crap pops up. One day it is fine the next it isn't.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

My truck was running perfectly fine and then one day it simply wouldn't start. I installed a new starter ground cable and it was good to go. Bad grounds can happen out of no where.

Also, there isn't a ground wire on the carb since it is grounded via its connection the the engine. All you need to hook up is your electric choke (this is one of the reasons why I prefer an manual choke) and your fuel cut off solenoid. You actually don't even "need" to wire anything to the carb for it to run. I don't run a fuel cut off solenoid so I have no wires running to my carb.

Pri$erulz

I checked the ground on the starter and all the connections are tight. The battery is tight and all the connections of the harness are connected. The headlights still work but there isn't any power in the rest of the cab. I crawled on the floor and jiggled the connections under there to make sure they are tight; they seem to be.

I did replace the instrument cluster but I can't remember if I have cranked the truck since then. I'm thinking aloud here but this is what I'm coming up with. 1) the instrument cluster I purchased could be bad or I missed a connection and it's not supplying power. 2) the turn signal fuse was blown but I don't see how that would effect the starter. 3) the key is the original and hardly more than a sliver. The ignition is harder to turn than normal and maybe it's not engaging.

Any other ideas? I'm headed out there with a voltmeter now.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

That would have been good information to know 14 posts ago. Good luck

Pri$erulz

Alright. Thanks for the help.

JonnyBoy

Sorry, can't help much on your starting issue other than repeating what Kawazx said about checking grounds, and maybe put your old cluster back in or just look for something you forgot to plug in. The truck should crank and even run without the cluster in at all, though.

As for the unplugged connector on the carb, Kawazx was right it's a fuel cut off. Mine ran fine with it unplugged, but it really should be plugged in with a constant 12v of power. When power is cut to that solenoid(the key is turned off) it's supposed to block fuel from getting to the idle jet, thus preventing the engine from dieseling. If your carb is tuned properly and you have no timing or vacuum leak issues, your engine won't diesel anyways, so it can be replaced with the proper screw to eliminate that solenoid, too. I got the replacement screw from LCE when I ordered some jets to fine tune my Weber on my '83.