83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

What your calling the nut, are you talking about the piece sticking out of the side of the intake manifold? If so and yours are not used and not capped, that's a vacuum leak.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

The thermo valve is not required. The HAI it ties to it the round piece in the intake of stock air cleaner that raises the flap to draw warm off of the header to help warm the engine up quicker.

For the nut are you referring to the piece directly to the right of the charcoal canister that has the two vacuum lines coming out of it? If so make sure all un-used ports on it are plugged.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

If you want to go fully desmogged, check out my desmog tutorial in my signature. Everything you need to know in there

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok I used the diagram to re-do the vacuum lines and then I fired it up and it ran well for a moment and then the whine came back! I have a friend who is going to look at it and hopefully we can figure it out! Thanks guys for the help and input and yes I really want to do a complete desmog!!!! However I am a poor college student and the bills have to come first right now unfortunately... I will post some pictures as soon as I can figure out how.

Trail-Outfitters

Describe the whine a little more, at first I suspected a fuel cut solenoid, but then you said you switched the carb for a rebuilt one so probably not that as far as your rough idle in concerned. Were you able to get the timing correct?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Have you watched the fuel level in the sight glass window? Where is it when the stuck is running for the moment before it cuts off?

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

The noise sounds like air slowly escaping a ballon around the back side of the carb area. Timing is fine now. I played with some a few days ago and its right on! I havnt looked at the fuel level in the glass... It should be about half way is that correct?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Yea fuel level is around half way. Maybe you have a leak on base of the carb. When you switched the carb, what kind of shape were the gaskets in?

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I worked on the truck all weekend and to answer your questions the fuel level is less than halfway like its starved for fuel at idle. So i looked at my fuel lines and the rubber ones were pretty loose and so i replaced the lines and put on a new fuel filter while i was at it and that seemed to help some on the idling but the noise is still there. and 83toyota88 i put a brand new seal and checked the studs and all are good and tight. its idling now but not real well and noise is still persistent. also there is a rubber hose that goes to the top of the air breather that holds the air filter from the head right behind the oil fill cap and it is filled with nasty white gunk type grease... and so its spitting this into the air filter area and then into the carb! every time i clean it out it fills up again after i drive it. dont know if this is related but its on my figure out how to fix list! thanks guys!

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Take a picture of the hose you say has gunk in I. Point to it or grab it in a picture so we can see.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

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Here is a picture of the hose.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

This is the old motor but its the only picture i had.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

"filled with nasty white gunk type grease" --> that is problematic since the only thing that would ever POSSIBLY go through that hose (other than fresh air going to the valve train like it is supposed to) would be motor oil. Are you sure it isn't an oil and water mixture?? Look under your oil cap, do you have the same gunk there? There is a baffle underneath your valve cover that is supposed to keep the oil down where it belongs, but if that baffle isn't there then you could potentially blow oil up into your filter housing or through your PCV valve. I use a breather filter for that hole since I run a Weber, but you could still do the same with the factory filter housing if you just plug the pipe going into the filter housing. Mine looks like this:





Also, excessive blow by and crankcase pressure can cause oil to spew out the PCV and breather.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone sorry its been a little while! i havnt seen any of the same substance in my oil fill so im going to put a breather on like kawazx636 did in his build and see where that gets me. Now i have another problem! While driving the other night my Dash lights and my tail lights went out simultaneously! My brake lights and turn signals still work fine. I checked the fuses and the one was blown for the dash lights so i replaced it and everything worked for a few seconds and then blew the fuse. So im assuming a short but it could be almost anywhere am i right? So i was wondering if any of you had any thoughts or places in mind to check first?

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone I really need help with this taillight dash light problem!!! I keep getting pulled over!!! I put another fuse in a second ago and looked for arcing under the bed and all along the wires as they make there way up to the cab and in the cab and I see nothing!!! I don't understand!!! Is there a way to use a voltmeter to find this short! Please help! Thanks in advance!

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

http://www.ehow.com/how_12188754_che...ultimeter.html

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Still havnt been able to find the short so
I'm just driving it during the day time.... But I had a curiosity question for y'all. Was a single tailgate latch bed a rare or expensive option in The first generations? Because it seems like you don't see as many of them and I happened to acquire one recently and was wondering if there was anything special about it?

Erick561

iTrader: (7)

Get a propane torch. turn it on without lighting it while the engine is running and move the nozzle around in the areas you hear the noise til you hear your idle change. keep getting closer to it til you find where the leak is.

As far as the short goes, this could be more than just a short. You might have a loose wire. What I did was go and buy one of those 30a cylinder fuses that have lead in the center and it seems to pop less but when you feel it get really hot you gotta turn the lights off and let it cool down or the lead will melt. this worked for me while i was working 80+ hours a week during the winter and I needed my lights on after 430PM between jobs and had to drive by the police station but didn't have time to work on the harness for 2 months Lol. Good luck finding the short. Make sure to trace the whole tail light harness. It could also be a problem under your hood from your head lights.

Erick561

iTrader: (7)

check my build (project hilux wtf). I was getting that gunky blowby oil problem even though I had the baffle under my valve cover. Culprit - blown head gasket.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone! The 81 is going to get major work done in the next couple weeks if all goes according to plan. I bought a 1977 2wd Toyota longbed 5 speed with 47,000 original miles to drive in the mean time while i work on the 81. Im going to rebuild the 81's original motor and and try and go through the entire truck with a fine tooth comb to semi restore and have everything in good working order. will be posting pictures finally!!! Thank you all for your help so far and i know im going to have a ton more questions once i get deep into it so dont go anywhere!! Ha ha! Im also going to have some first gen parts for sale because my girl friend is parting hers out so look for my add in the classifieds in the next week in the parting out section. THANKS AGAIN Y'ALL!