Ok my yota has been running rough and so did a compression test and the number two cylinder is giving me a reading of zero and the others were low. So i found a good used 22r with a 5 speed transmission which is what i have been wanting because this 4 speed just doesnt cut it for traveling on the highway. So i have a couple questions.
First: how difficult is it to pull a 22r with the transmission attached?
Second: this 5 speed is out of an 81 so im assuming its an L50 and i was wondering if i should go ahead and replace the input bearing that is prone to failure on these things while i have it out and if i can do it myself?
Lastly: Not long ago i put a clutch on my 4 speed and so its pretty new and was wondering if the 4 speed clutch would fit on the 81 5 speed? Thanks!

 

First: easy, get a hoist
Second: do it, it's easy too
Lastly: Yes, but I wouldn't unless you at least swap the flywheel with it. They wear to each other

 

It's not a bad job to pull the motor just get you another person to assist you and a hoist you'll be fine watch your radiator or pull it out before hand

 

Ok awesome thanks for the info! Is there anyway that one of you can give me detailed instructions on how to replace that bearing in the transmission? i have never done any tranny work so i just need a little bit of help to get started and pictures if availiable would be awesome! Thanks everyone!

 

ok so i really want to only put this motor and transmission in once and just want to make sure im doing the right thing: so i can either just pull my motor and tranny and slide the new motor and tranny in and be done or i can separate the new motor and tranny and replace the input shaft bearing and replace the clutch, put it back together and then install. So any last minute advice or opinions would be helpful! thanks!

 

You can do either, both ways have their ups and downs

 

Ok awesome! Hey I'm trying to get the core support out and it won't budge!!! I have taken everything off and I need to know what I'm doing wrong!! Is the support part of the inner fenders? Or is it separate?

 

It's not going to budge because The radiator support does not come out. The whole front clip is welded to the cab.

 

Thanks for the info kawazx636! I dont know why they would make that the way that they did! But all said and done i got the new motor and tranny in and since i had limited time just slid the new one in the way it was. drives pretty well now and its so nice to have a 5 speed!!! But a couple of things: Sputters at idle like its missing. I have heard distributor cap or timing and was wondering what yall think. also purrs like a kitten when you accelerate but when you ease off the fuel it stutters and rocks. anyone know what might be causing these?

 

These trucks like to idle a little higher than most vehicles. You should be idling around 850-900 RPMs. You may also want to check the timing - should be 5* advanced at around 900 RPM with the vacuum advance pinched off.

 

Why 8 degrees? The sticker on my hood say 5 and so does the FSM. Is just one of those things that people know they run better at 8?

 

oops, I had a case of the fat fingers... You are correct, it should be 5*. Damn 8 is too close to 5 on the number pad! I'll edit my post above so nobody gets confused

 

I was just wondering if I was missing something, your not the first person to say more than 5 degrees.

 

Edited statement above.

 

Ok so I tweaked the timing and it improved some some so I replaced cap, rotor, plugs, and wires and no change so I turned my attention to the carb. I had a fresh rebuilt one on the shelf so I put it on and it started up great sand ran smooth then I hear a semi high pitched whine... So I assume a vacuum leak but I can't find anything wrong and and now when I drive it as soon as I let my foot off the gas I hear the whine and then it dies!!!!

 

Is the engine still smogged?

 

If it is and you plan to keep it smogged because you have too then you may want to replace all your vacuum lines. If you do that use fuel hose with the same inner diameter as it will hold up better than the thin vacuum line. If it doesn't have be smogged than de-smog it with parts from LCE. Definitely will help the engine. I did it to mine and still have the stock carb.

 

The truck was smogged but the engine is de smogged. So if I have all the ports on the carb plugged that aren't being used then I should be ok right? In going to replace the lines tomorrow and see if that helps. What are the vacuum lines that are necessary for the carb?

 

Ok dig through my thread my signature and see what lines I used. If you can't tell I will try and come up with a picture showing what I hooked up.

 

Ok I see your pictures and I believe this will help a lot! Few questions though: the thermo valve in the diagram is that a required piece? And also the nut on the bottom that has the vacuum lines coming out should I have that plugged off because it appears to be in your photo?