Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

I have recently bought a 1981 4x4 pickup with the 22r for $700. After putting new tires and a new clutch it runs and drives fairly decent! Has a lot of body damage but I am slowly working on that. In the last few weeks though I have run into a few problems that I was hoping someone could help me figure out. First, sometimes when I'm cruising along and then I let off the gas to stop or put it in neutral it dies on me!! I seems to do it at random times not making a difference wether hot or cold. I have seen a few other threads mention a tps problem and vacume problems but just wanted some confirmation and this is probably a stupid question but do non fuel injected engines have tps? And secondly, when I accelerate at a normal steady rate in any gear it bucks. Sometimes just once or twice and sometimes uncontrollably until I either let off the gas or floor it and then it quits. It's been driving me nuts and I can't figure it out. It's a 4 speed transmission and I was wondering of its a transmission or fuel problem maybe since it bucks almost like when you are running out of gas or have an air pocket in fuel line or something???? I will post pictures of truck and welcome any help with these problems or just general comments thanks!!!

cman1

iTrader: (1)

22r no tps,get a can of carb cleaner and go around everything!! id bet vacuum leak or fuel cutoff valve on carb.

catfish21

iTrader: (1)

First put a new fuel filter and then clean your.carb

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

I have already put a new fuel filter on and am going to try and test for vacuum leaks and work on the carb. Thanks for the input guys! It may just be time to break down and buy a weber!

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

And where is the fuel cut off valve on the carb? I havnt done a lot of carb work before so I'm new at this. And should I just replace that piece or rebuild the whole carb? It's the original carb with 316,000 miles on it so it may need some tlc!!

catfish21

iTrader: (1)

Hey man you need to buy the weber 32/36 dgev kit that has everything you need it comes with all the linkage and stiff to install, and I would recommend getting the LC pro spiral adapter because the weber adapter is prone to leaking, and then get the plug kit for your intake. All this can be got at LC performance .com they sell the real made in Spain weber you have to be careful they have fakes out there, but all this will cost around $400 and by the time you have the asin carb rebuilt its gonna cost that or more. It's very easy to do and its one of the best things I have done to my truck, they are very easy to tune and all around better product in my opinion. If you don't like it I'll buy it all back from you but if you do decide to go that route witch I highly recommend you do I'll help you out with it

cman1

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't agree more!!!

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help and advice catfish and I think I'm going to do what you suggest!! I have heard really great things about the webers and I'm pretty confident that with your help and the rest of the yota tech community I can fix these couple hick ups with my yota! I will post again when I get the parts you suggested because It might take a few pay checks to save up for the weber! Also I was reading some of your posts and was wondering if you still needed the center link for your steering tie rods and a new bed for your truck? I might know of a center link for sale near me and I will keep a look out for a bed! I feel your pain searching for a good long bed because that are indeed hard to find!! However I did find one only an hour away from me in excellent shape yesterday so I'm going up this weekend to get it before anyone else snatches it up!!!!

catfish21

iTrader: (1)

Well I went ahead and ordered one from Napa being that I need it now but most definitely I need a long bed in a bad way. But yeah man keep me in mind if you find a bed and holla at me for help with your carb I can get pics and walk you through the process

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

I would vote to keep the factory carb. I just rebuilt mine for $100. The fuel cut off solenoid you asked about is on the passenger side of the carb on the back-left. It's a cylinder shaped with two wires running to it. My 83 has a black and white/black wire to it. If you have the same colors the black is + and the white/black is -. If you can get it loose try and hook it up to your battery and you should here a clicking sound. Also check the sight glass on the front of the carb. The fuel level is should be half way in the sight glass or even with the two screws holding the glass piece in. Some people will also run it a little under halfway.

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Also put a new fuel filter on if you have not done so. A dirty fuel filter seems to cause a lot of people trouble. Some trucks have just one located on the passenger side of the frame right where lines come out of the tank. Others trucks have that plus one more in the engine bay.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I know going with a stock rebuild will be cheaper and I may do that to get me by till I can afford a weber but I think ultimately I will put a weber on it! Thanks for helping with locating the fuel cutoff and yes I have replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay but could not find one in between the engine and the tank on the from rail or anywhere in between. Should there be another one or can there only be one in the engine bay?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

One filter is fine. My truck only has one.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok sweet thanks for the info!!!

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone another problem has come up! I went to start my truck this morning for work and I turn the key over to the on position before trying to start and the dash lights and everything comes on like normal and then I try and start and all I hear is one click and then nothing and the dash lights go out and won't come back on again. At first I was thinking starter because of that distinctive click with no turn over but if it was the starter why would the dash lights go out and act like the entire systems is being starved for power? And I can't get the lights to come back on and I tried jumping it and that doesn't work either! So before I bang on the starter and go buy a new one I would like to know if there are any other possibilities. Thanks!

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

If all your lights went out then that sounds like a battery problem. If you have a multimeter or voltmeter, measure the voltage on your battery. Or if you have another vehicle take the battery out of the Toyota and take it to am auto place and let them test it.

If there isn't sufficient voltage the starter won't do its thing.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Ok I will! I was just ruling the battery out because its pretty new (only a year old) and when i tried to jump the battery it didn't do anything to help the lights come on or anything. But I suppose it could be all the way dead and not holding a charge also. I will try testing voltage tonight and see if I get any answers! Thanks 83!

85sr5excab

Clean ur battery posts and battery clamps. Sounds to me like either the clamps are loose or corroded. If they check out then try what 83toyota88 suggested. If u have poor connection the lights will turn off but will come back on when u wiggle the clamps. Ive had this happen multiple times on old trucks. Good luck!

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Do as 85sr5excab said and clean your terminals and see if the truck starts. If not check the voltage on the battery. If its low and the auto parts store says your battery has good integrity then your alternator may have took a dump.

Jrheingans

iTrader: (2)

Well looks like all that happened was that the ground cable was worn out from the battery smashing against it when taking sharp corners so that the constant stretching and compressing caused enough of the copper strands to break and fall off not offering very good ground contact to the frame. I'm just glad it was an easy fix!!! I'm trying to get pictures up but am having trouble posting but I will try again today. Thanks for the info!