So I need a new multimeter because I think the $10 analog Radioshack job is not cutting it. The best place I can think of close by to me to get one is Lowe's. They have a Gardner Bender 10 function, 32 range for $50 bucks. Do you think this will serve my purpose well?

I want to test the IAC, MAF and various other electrical dohickeys that affect idle speed because my 97 4runner runs great when the engine is cold and almost fully warm but once it reaches running temp for a while, it wants to drop the idle down to 500rpm, especially after coming to a stop for more than a few seconds. This makes the truck feel like a slingshot when trying to take off from a stop quickly and it doesn't idle as smoothly as it should.

Also, if anyone can give me any tips on how to use my new multimeter, I would appreciate it. I just want to test resistance in the sensors to make sure they are within the specs in FSM. To tell you the truth, I don't even know what setting to put it on to do this Hopefully whatever I buy will come with instructions, but if you have any tips for using it on automotive circuits, I would appreciate them!

 

I have a very old one I got long ago.
Here is a YouTube video.
YouTube has just about anything these days.

[YOUTUBE]KzjMIcER4EU[/YOUTUBE]

 

Thanks Corey, I actually saw this come up in a google search yesterday but I forgot about it. The host is pretty goofy but it was great information.

One question, they said the resistor they measured in the video was rated at 9.78 kilo ohms and the FSM says the IAC should measure between 21.5 - 29.5 "ohm symbol" when warm. These are two different units of measure right? If I wanted to go from "ohm symbol" units to kilo ohms, I would divide by 1000?

Nevermind, I found my answer by looking through the FSM some more. THe TPS resistance is denoted using M Ohm symbol and k Ohm symbol

 

See below for some tips:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#TPSAdjustment

What is wrong with your RS meter? I mainly use a $3 meter I got from Harbor Freight, even keep one in my glove box (price is now $5):
- http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899

It works fine and if it breaks or gets lost or stolen, no big deal, in fact I had one stolen from the glove box of my truck once. Picked up a new meter for another $3, figured that was about the cost of new batteries for the old one anyway

1,000 ohms = 1 K ohm (or kilo ohm)
1,000,000 ohms = 1 M ohm (or mega ohm)

 

Well if 4Crawler uses a $3 multimeter then I definitely don't deserve any better! I will probably go buy a $20 one from Lowe's tonight then. I really do think my RS one was broken though. Thanks for the link and I love the Office Space reference!

 

you might check sears if you have one close. i bought one after thanksgiving on sale for 10 bucks that was usually 25.

 

I used to have a cheap Walmart meter. I believe it was only like $12. It worked well for my purposes until our idiot lube tech (who was for some idiot reason put on as a line tech) borrowed it and used it to check for battery voltage using amps. It fried my meter. I bought a used Fluke 87 from our shop foreman. But I still hold true to my cheap digital Walmart meter, if it still worked.

 

Yup. Princess Auto, walmart, whatever. A cheap DMM is a cheap DMM and may not be as nice to use as a $799 Fluke, but who cares?

I use a $10 meter at home. At work, I use a $299 one that I got years ago, because it had a tach/dwell setting that's useful sometimes. Now a cheap $50 timing light would have the same tach/dwell, but whatever.

 

I have a $300 FLUKE that the insurance policy bought for me when my $25 one burned up in the house fire. Not practical I know, but very nice.

 

the main difference I've noticed (besides features) between the big buck meters and the cheapies is "refresh rate" or how fast the meter will display a change in whatever you are measuring. So if you're just measuring something that isn't supposed to change value quickly, go with the cheapie meter.

 

I mostly use mine for a parasitic load over time. I will leave the meter on while I go home and the next morning look at the parameter of my meter to see if a load has exceeded the normal load overnight.

 

i love my Blue-Point one. i beleve it is made for them by fluke. has all sorts of functions and is auto rangeing. i wanna say i spent about 350 for it. i know that MAC has theres on sale this month, i think you can even get a AMP clamp for free if you buy it. if i didnt need it to help pay my bills (im a heavy equipment mechanic) i wouldnt have spent so much, but now that i have it i love it.