Did I break my CV? (pics)
#4
Yeah, thats what I figured. I just put on my lift the other week, and sure enough it broke while i was out there. I'm gonna run my autozone tomorrow and get a new one. I installed your diff. drop when I put the lift on, is there anything else I can do to prevent one from breaking in the future?
#5
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What lift did you use up front?
A front locker can help and hurt, but what happened to you looks exaclty like what happened to me in Moab on Rocker Knocker.
The wheels were fully turned to the left and the right front tire was drooped all the way down, it was too much with the wheels turned so hard and the outter CV just seperated, just like yours.
CV's that fail from impact typically explode the outter cup, I came up with the front limiting staps so I could set the droop where I wanted it.
A front locker can help and hurt, but what happened to you looks exaclty like what happened to me in Moab on Rocker Knocker.
The wheels were fully turned to the left and the right front tire was drooped all the way down, it was too much with the wheels turned so hard and the outter CV just seperated, just like yours.
CV's that fail from impact typically explode the outter cup, I came up with the front limiting staps so I could set the droop where I wanted it.
#7
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Yeah, I think you need the straps and you'll be set. Especially if you used the OME front shocks, those are considerably longer than the rest, but have the nice huge shaft and softer valveing.
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#8
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I think I need limit straps too.
I recently replaced by driverside CV shaft with a new one from NAPA. When I put the tire back on, I gave it a turn and noticed the CV joints are binding. This is with the wheel off the ground, suspension at full droop. The entire front diff lurches when I cycle(force) the wheel one rev.
I recently replaced by driverside CV shaft with a new one from NAPA. When I put the tire back on, I gave it a turn and noticed the CV joints are binding. This is with the wheel off the ground, suspension at full droop. The entire front diff lurches when I cycle(force) the wheel one rev.
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There is such a thing as too much droop. A tire hanging there with no weight on it is not going to act like a drooped tire on a straight axle.
Run a front locker, keep your front travel within reason and don't get on the gas.
My axle from Moab:
Hunt's axle from Moab:
We both broke at the same place, no one else with IFS even tried it.
This is the reason along with the fact "I could", that I converted to the Dana 44. It broke too easily with that extra droop.
Binding breaks pull the tulip apart, get on the gas breaks typically blow the outter shell apart.
Know your travel and limit it within reason. They only build so_much_droop into these parts.
Run a front locker, keep your front travel within reason and don't get on the gas.
My axle from Moab:
Hunt's axle from Moab:
We both broke at the same place, no one else with IFS even tried it.
This is the reason along with the fact "I could", that I converted to the Dana 44. It broke too easily with that extra droop.
Binding breaks pull the tulip apart, get on the gas breaks typically blow the outter shell apart.
Know your travel and limit it within reason. They only build so_much_droop into these parts.
#10
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Originally Posted by TStango
I think I need limit straps too.
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#11
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Originally Posted by sschaefer3
Hunt's axle from Moab:
#12
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Originally Posted by Bighead
I was wondering what Hunt's axle looked like after it blew on Pritchett. For some reason that is the first pic I had seen of it.
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