4RUNR

If you connect a 150psi compressor to a 3000psi tank, then yes, obviously it will only fill to 150psi. I mentioned power washer pumps. Those things are usually in the 2500-3500psi range. Can get some real train horns too then

turboale

haha,
I wonder if there is a law against those... I would think they would cause one just as easily as they would avoid one

I'll definately be getting something like this...

LarsDennert

If you are planning ARB's I'd recommend an 85-105 switch. Scuba tanks have removable regulators but I wouldn't go wheeling with on unless it was strapped down. A York is a tight fit. You'd have to move the battery. See Erik B. for brackets.

Having a tank is nice because it allows you to build up some reserve between tires. Too big of a tank and the compressor is working to fill the tank and the tire making things slower than without the tank.

turboale

Do ARBs not like too much pressure?

Whats Erik's screename on yotatech, or could you point me in a direction to get ahold of him? Email, website, phone...?

Where do you generally move the batteries to, the rear? or just to another place in the engine bay?

Thanks Lars!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

70-80 psi is usually plenty, too much more and you stress the seals and can blow them out. My compressor is on an 80-100 psi switch, I may even drop that to a 70-85 psi one.


http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/]ErikB's web site


I moved my battery underneath the truck.


Also, regarding tanks, I just worked through several examples and you will always have a faster tire fill with a tank, regardless of size, than with a tank. Of course this assumes you are starting with the tank filled (and if you are not filling the tank ahead of time, what's the point in having one?). At the lower end (no tank) your tire fill time will be the tire volume / the compressor flow rate. Up the tank volume and/or pressure and you get an incremental decrease in fill time until you hit the upper limit when the tank is large enough to fill the tires all by itself.

Granted, once you get that initial blast of air out of the tank (to the point it's pressure is equal to the tires) the tank does slow the remainder of the inflation time in proportion to its volume vs. that of the tires. Typically this ratio is fairly small for a vehicle-mounted tank, as you would need something like a 100 gal. air tank to have an equal volume as 4 tires, thus doubling the air up time (but a 100 gal. tank would fill all 4 tires all by itself).

I suppose you could rig up a shutoff valve between the compressor and tank. Open it to fill the tank and for the first few seconds filling the tires. Then once its pressure falls to that of the tires, shut off the valve and let the compressor fill the tires only. I estimated with an 8 gal. tank and 1CFM compressor, you could shave maybe 30 seconds off airing up 4 tires, from 6m30s w/ the tank connected and 6m0s w/ the tank shut off after it dumps its air. Note that w/o the tank at all, it would take 12 minutes for the compressor alone to fill the tires.

turboale

Thanks roger! I sent him an email, we shal see what he says back...

As for the ARB, so that means you can only run the tanks at 70-80psi when runnign the locker?

York question... How good are the clutches on the yorks? How would you wire them up? (I don't need every detail) but whould you have a pressure switch like you would an electric one and when you activate the switch the compressor will only engauge when needed? or do you hook it up with a bleeder valve and when you flip the switch the compressor is on all the time til you turn the switch off and the extra air is just released into the atmosphere?

As always, Thank youuuuu,

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yes, whatever you set the pressure switch at. As noted, mine shuts off about 100psi and turns on again at around 80psi. You could always run an external pressure regulator for the ARBs, a mechanical one. I played with this a bit, but the regulators I tried seem to leak a fair bit of air (all regulators do to one degree or another). I'll probably just use a lower pressure switch and call it good. I'm planning to convert my old A/C compressor to OBA as well, I'll set it up for a higher pressure than my electric one. That way the ARBs run off the lower pressure setting. For airing up tires, I can flip on the A/C compressor and up the system pressure and volume.


I have full compressor wiring information as well as links to York and other OBA installtions on my OBA web page.

turboale

Well...

Hopefully this spring i'll be rock'n one of these!



Now, all I need are a few others that are interested in taking the plundge with me so it will be worth it for Erik to make the brackets...

914runner

Depending on the price for the brackets ill take a set. You will also have to get a $50 pulley then spend another $50 on it to have it modified.

WATRD

When I got the ViAir 550C, I kept my two-gallon tank for two reasons.

As has been mentioned, two-gallons is practically worthless for filling up tires. You get an initial "shot" of air while the tank pressure drops to that of the tire, but you are certainly not going to fill even a single tire with the tank alone.

I kept the tank (from a previous set-up) for these two reasons; 1. It gives me a nice shot of air in the event that I need a sudden blast, like when reseating a bead. 2. The tank "buffers" the compressor. That is, when I am airing up and stop to check the pressure, walk to the next tire, B.S., whatever, the compressor continues to run, attempting to refill the tank. When I hook up to the next tire, I get a blast of air that I banked while the hose wasn't hooked up to anything. It's not a lot, but it adds up when you are airing up several rigs.

The downside is that once the tank is drawn down, your compressor has to fill the volume of the tire, lines AND the tank back up to whatever you are pumping the tires back up to. So, it actually takes MORE time to fill a tire with the tank in line. I can't say if the banking of air outweighs that, but suspect not.

The ideal set up would be to have a valve. Once the tank had dumped it's load, it should be cut out of the air system until it's detected that no air is coming out of the chuck. At that point the compressor cycles would be contribuing to refilling the tank against the next use, but only when filling the tank is not competing with filling the tire. I would like to use the idle cycles or "downtime" of my compressor that way, but I haven't figured out how to pull it off. What I need is a reverse blow off valve that would only fill the tank if the pressure got above 50PSI in the line or something similar.

Mad Chemist

Austin,

I know "JRUZ" on the board was in the process of trying to do an install on his 4 cylinder. I think Shane had a cheap source for pulleys, so you could PM him about it, he mentioned it to me on a recent run, as he's putting a York into his 87? truck. The nice thing about the York is you just give the engine some gas if you want more air. The York on my LC just has a switch in the cab for the clutch, but is currently not connected to a pressure switch or tank.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Read my post above about this very subject. It is ALWAYS faster to air up with a tank (assuming its full to start with), the bigger the tank the faster the fill up is. You could get a small speedup, as I mentioned on my post. It would save perhaps 30 seconds on airing up with a hefty 16 gallon tank (2 cu.ft.). You could probably rig up something with pressure switches and electrically operated solenoids to make it work. I find with my 2 gallons of storage, I get a 1 minute saving on airing up 4 tires (6 min. vs. 7 min).

WATRD

It's faster right up until the moment that the tank reaches the same pressure as the tire. From there on, having a tank is a hinderance rather than a benefit because it's just adding volume that you need to fill up with air.

After doing some investigation today, the cut out idea *might* be easier than it sounded. They have valves available that can be preset to flow at certain pressure differentials. If you could set one to flow out of the tank any time the pressure is less than 40 PSI or so on the chuck side of the valve and one to flow into the tank any time the pressure is greater than 40 PSI on the chuck end, this might work.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yes, I note that in my earlier post. But the time savings for bypassing the tank is pretty darn small. With a small tank, say 2 gallons, and 4 typical size tires (volume of about 120 gallons) the addition of the tank is less than 2% of the tire volume (and thus will add that much to the time - or 1 second for every minute airing up). Granted filling one tire at a time changes the figures a bit, but I fill all 4 tires at once.

midiwall

The legality of running REALLY loud horns will vary froim state-to-state and from township-to-township (e.g, "No engine braking within city limits" is a noise based issue).


btw, you'll have some fun trying to find a spot to fit those. I run a pair of Go air horns (17" and 19") and they take up more room than you may think:
http://www.midiwall.com/4Runner/airhorns.html



Have fun!

jruz

...and he *might* actually get back to that project on of these days. :pat:

Money had been tight, but my raise is kicking in at the end of the month...and bonuses should be good at the end of the year.

Anywho, this is back on my agenda. However on that pic of that 3.4L install, my power-steering pump is sitting right where their York is. I think ultimately I will get that same pulley they have on their alternator (serp. + v-groove) and put it down lower and to the right.

Is this long-haired hippy - Shane? I'll have to ask him about pulleys...

Jim