paynemw

I picked up this super clean 1986 4Runner SR5 with a 22RE and W56. The dude did a great job cleaning out the rust over the rear wells. Everything works... its awesome. Unfortunately that torsion bars are cranked up and the rear is sagging. Overall, good truck. Just hit 200,000 miles.

Stock truck outside of the nasty rims.


Day I looked at it.

Offered him some money, and picked it up two days later.

Out with the Fiance

Peel and Seal

put in the new stereo from the Tacoma

I found plastidip....and went crazy


Parts/mods waiting to be installed:
SUPRA AFM Swap - in-progress w/ the battery re-location mod
header, low restriction cat & muffler - low restriction cat/muffler done. will get a header sometime.
Battery re-location - need to work template
BJ Spacers... 1.5 inches?! recommendations anyone? - didn't do this. Will sell the BJ Spacers
ZUK no-cut mod - complete
1996-03 Toyota 6 spoke 16x7 alloys - complete
285/75r16s - complete
1.5-2 inch wheel spacers - 1.5" spacers from TG
4.56 or 4.88s - 4.88s from LROR
lockers... not sure what I want to get into - rear detroit, might grab a detroit up front too
addicted offroad tube bumpers & sliders - Have everything, just need to weld the sliders on after getting the frame checked out
LEDs EVERYWHERE!!!! - Everything is LED'ed sans the MAP lights.
IFS Truss
BlazeLand LT Kit (please!!!?!)
Sway-A-Way Torsion Bars (26mm?) - picked up Downey 26mm T-Bars for $100
Extended diff breathers
LSPV deletion


Gonna sell those CLEAN bumpers with perfect plastic. Anyone interested?

Any advice or recommendations on must do mods would be great.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Wow!!! There is still trucks out there in that great of condition? Looks like you scored good on that one. Looking forward to your build.

paynemw

Yea I was blown away at how nice it was. We'll a good update, I've failed the Maryland State inspection miserably... Need to do a ton of work to get it to pass. Which is a good thing because I get to put those wheels and tires on.... ordered a V6 third with a Detroit and 4.88s from LowRange. Actually I picked up a ton of parts.

I do have a question though. I need help with these interior lights. How the hell do you pull the map lights out? I want to put some LEDs inside. I put one in the overhead lamp, but I can't always get it to turn on. I'm also having a ton of issues with my driver side door courtesy light.

84 yota dude

Clean rig!!

For the map lights.. use a plastic trim removal tool and gently pry it off from the front side with the two switches pushed in (lights on). I just converted mine to leds and they are not super bright but definitely brighter.
Here is the link-->
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ed-tower/2077/

paynemw

A few updates:

No-Cut Zuk Mod complete! I picked up the two 175lb 5"OD x 11"Tall Black Magic springs and its great... the ride stiffness is now equal front and rear


No Cut Zuk Mod after



Driver side Door: I found that the master switch works fine and is actually clean, but the plastic buttons are broken and do not allow for a solid connection to create a closed circuit to get the window to operate correctly. I ordered a replacement from the switchdoctor.... I'll swap out the black molding for the original gray and boom.
Next... I originally thought the driver side door was sagging...but come to find out, the door handle was not operating correctly so I purchased a new outer door handle... that will fix the driver side door operation.

I put peel-n-seal down in the bed so that's all wrapped up... will move to the foot areas of the front and rear seats later... and most likely transition to another insulation for the transmission tunnel and fire wall.

I ordered a V6 3rd with a detroit and 4.88s from LowRange...and some 4.88s for up front. I'll have the Toyota dealership put those in when they work on the truck...

Toyota will do all of the work because I still haven't found a reputable shop in the Bel Air, Md area... They will replace the front rotors, bearings, put a boot on the Driver side CV, rear axle seals (inner&outer) bearings, brakes, install 3rd & install the steering shaft U-joint.

I ordered four Destination A/T 285/75R16's from tirerack and they'll go on the 96-02 6x spoke 16x7s that I picked up and am painting back.




I just need to get Addicted Offroad to hook me up with a military discount for a front tube bumper, rear bumper and sliders... ScottyC is that cool?

paynemw

So a ton of parts should be arriving today... will be spending the weekend getting all of the parts organized, cleaning up the interior... maybe painting some panels... and doing the research for this awesome MOD!

LED Turn Signal in Parking Light housing

Also, got some Light Bulb Numbers for people to reference:

Toyota 4Runner
First generation (1984–1989)
High & low beam headlight H6054
Parking light 194
Front turn signal 1073
Rear turn signal 1073
Tail light 1157
Stop light 1157
License plate 194
Back up light 1073
Front sidemarker 194

I'll be snagging up 4 of these Mini Round LEDs and then some LEDs for the rear turn signals. Once those are installed I can go to the above mentioned thread and snip up the relay instead of spending money.

Tires arrived today... will be getting them mounted and ready to go for the weekend.


I just read COB's 87 Turbo Runner build... so motivational!

EDIT: V6 3rd with 4.88s and detroit, front diff 4.88s and 1.5" wheel spacers arrived today... dropped the rims off to have the tires mounted

Also... anyone have recommendations on a particular brand of rotors to purchase? Toyota OEM rotors are back ordered three weeks and I only have two weeks to get everything done to pass inspection. Advice?!

paynemw

AND I just purchased a front bumper, rear bumper and sliders from Addicted Offroad...

Front Bumper will get the frame re-enforcement package, no stinger

paynemw

So I couldn't wait to put the tires on....

285/75R16 Destination A/Ts

they look weird without the spacers... but I'm going to wait to put those on until after I get the truck re-inspected.

I'll get more pictures later.

I def need to get rid of the 1" block lift in the rear and tone down the T-Bars up front and possibly throw on some 1.5" BJ spacers to soften up the ride... Def need new Ball Joints all the way around and some new steering components.
Any recommendations on re-enforced pitman arms and idler arms and other steering components for IFS trucks with 33"s?

paynemw

this $65 homemade top is definitely in my future...

maybe not, I just read about how bad it is on the highway. Oh WELL!

Ericcason92

I was scrolling down and saw you gsp and man it looks a lot like mine.

Nervo19

Nice 4Runner. They are uncommon in VA and I imagine even more so in NOVA. I notice it has a 7-15 VA state inspection. What specifically is causing it to fail MD inspections? I have a pretty honest VA garage that seems to pass my 4Runners every time without upsells. I do try to make sure brakes and light bulbs are good before taking it in. I know places will fail you to sell tires, brakes etc. Maybe you need a different inspection station.

paynemw

They were definitely trying to "sell me" on stuff. So MD inspections are a 1 time inspection and obviously I don't have to explain to you how the VA inspection goes. But because they are so "loose" in VA and so anal in MD... I assumed that I'd pass. They hit me with some DUMB things... tires sticking out past the fenders (no problem bc those rims were terrible) Steering U-joint bad (ok?) front rotors out of tolerance (too thin - fine with me bc they were warped) inner CV boot torn, driver door not operable (super easy fix by bending actuating rod), master window switch inoperable (dude was def trying to make money on that "you have to push hard on the up/down switch"- bought a new one and threw it on, license plate light out (put in a new LED light bar), rear axle seals leaking (took the opportunity to re-gear and lock with a V6 3rd)

I think the owner of the shop thought I was ignorant so he tried to get over on me... so I asked for everything he failed me on, and went and fixed about 75% of it myself. I don't have access to the tools I had when I was back in VA or a place to work on it, so I'm having a shop do the axle work, etc to transfer risk. I'll bring it back to the same dude to have him issue the one time inspection and I'll never go back there for any work.

Dude was not cool, but its $75 for a state inspection, everything should be good to get fixed, and unfortunately I'm tagging it in MD so I have to do all of this...

paynemw

So I got the truck back from Toyota (because it's the only shop in the area that I trust and can find! So I got the 3rd member from LowRange (Trailgear really) with the 4.88s and Detroit installed. New inner and outer axle seals, bearings, brakes and wheel cylinders. The front received new seals, bearings and OEM rotors. I def want to upgrade the calipers and master cylinder.

The big question of the day.... can I drive with the front axle housing out and half shafts sitting if the hubs are "free." I mean theoretically the front axles shouldn't rotate if the hubs are in "free" but really I'm sure it isn't recommended. I have found only one shop that is recommended to do axle work in the Aberdeen, MD area.... and he doesn't take vehicles anymore so I have to deliver the front housing and the gears... so I'm sorta screwed on the logistical constraints surrounded the situation. I mean I could leave the truck in the driveway but then I'd have to get a rental...and spend more monies.... help me out!?

I need to do some work on the interior floor.. there's too much contours in the floor, so I need to cover it with peel and seal and add some carpet insulation to fill the "holes".

I've also noticed that I can hear a lot of noise from the front end... my assumption is that it's associated with the torsion bars that are cranked all the way. I hope that once I grab some 1.5" BJ spacers and let the T-bars down a skoetch that it will help, maybe remove the swaybars?

I def need to work on the steering...

Again this truck is badass... can't wait to throw in the Supra AFM

OH YEA!!! and I have passed Maryland State Inspection!!! Time for wheel spacers, bumpers, and all kinds of no F's given!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You can drive without the front drive shaft in and the hubs free. The shaft does not turn when in two wheel and going down the road. Glad to see you passed inspection.

paynemw

YES!!!
how I love you sooo!!!

so by deduction do you believe I could drive the truck without the front axle housing in?
Answered myself: I saw BlazeN8's build and he drove around for a minute without the housing or CVs in.

icentropy

EDIT - wow that was weird. i posted to a completely different thread and it posted on here. Sorry about that. Carry on!

paynemw

SOOOO

I had some work done to my truck, new rotors, bearings, wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, bearings, seals... but i still get a pulsating feeling when I brake. I returned the truck to Toyota because the work and parts are under warranty. They said that my tie rods and pitman arm are causing the pulsating. I call BS. The mechanic is saying that because there is "slop" in the steering, that the tires' toe is constantly changing during the braking causing the "pulsating" feeling. There is no way that the tires are wobbling that much when breaking at 25mph and I still the sensation in the brake pedal. Has anyone ever had OEM Toyota Rotors cause this issue? I can't think of any other possible issue that might be causing this.

paynemw

Update: I replaced the inner/outer TREs, idler arm and got the truck aligned. I still have the sensation in the brakes. I might have a SLIGHTLY out of balance tire, and I know that my "camber and caster are MAXED OUT" according to the tech at Firestone, but still within spec. I am still getting that sensation.. the only thing I can deduce is that the rotors are warped... what else could cause the sensation like I'm riding a wave as I brake? On a good note, I got 20 mph with a bike on the roof rack, the truck is super quiet now so I'm stoked with that. I'm looking forward to doing the SUPRA AFM swap mod... but I'm going to keep the intake and airbox in the same location.

No cool pictures associated with this update... whomp whomp.

Question, can anyone direct me to a build that specifies how to bi-pass the harness that forces the rear deck light to only come on when the headlights are on? I want to have the ability to turn the light on from both front and rear switch without having to turn on the headlights. I mounted my 2nd LED strip to the rollbar and will be piggy-back off the deck light (hopefully not having to worry about additional amp draw from original thanks to swapping to LED (I'll post a picture later)

maco35

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#DeckLightMod

paynemw

I need some advice on IFS Suspension. The previous owner cranked the T-Bars way up and the tires retained a normal wear pattern. I put on new steering components (inner/outer TREs and idler arm) and now have negative camber on the driver side tire. According to Firestone, I'm maxed out on camber and caster. I need to reduce the negative camber on both sides, but significantly on the driver side. I can't afford to get the blazeland LT kick just yet nor can I afford buying larger T-Bars. If my thinking is accurate, would installing 1.5 in BJ spacers help reduce camber by returning the upper control arm to a "flatter" plane as to push the spindle out up top while still soaking up some of the length in the lower control arm as to decrease overall camber? I know that BJ spacers are common, but I don't want to destroy my UCAs and the thought of cutting them makes me nervous, even though I don't plan on running BJ spacers forever. This sorta excites me because I can then lower the torsion on the T-Bars and have a softer spring rate up front.

EDIT: Just read 4Crawler... we are good. I really don't like BJs because of what BlazeN8 shows all of the time with cracked UCAs... but I don't have a choice right now...