Looking to SAS in Albuquerque, NM
10-17-2008, 07:23 PM
#22
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just keep searching and reading.. while you save your pennies..
but my stocker with a welded rear and 32 mudders and a homejobber snorkle does pretty good for what it is...just gotta watch my lines
but my stocker with a welded rear and 32 mudders and a homejobber snorkle does pretty good for what it is...just gotta watch my lines
10-17-2008, 07:58 PM
#23
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OK guys, what are longfields and birfs?
My opinion is that you should not convert your vehicle until you have successfully wheeled it like it is. Because you (and me) have no idea what you want to improve.
That does not apply if you are just in love with the way it looks and that is all that is important to you. I have done exactly what you are doing with other things and you will spend 10 times as long in the shop as you would if you use what you have.
Unless you have lots of money. Add up how much money you think it will cost, then double that figure. Thats what your spending capital should be to get it done right and fast.
And I like this guy who is wheeling on 31's and keeping up with the Jeeps on 35's, tell me more..
My opinion is that you should not convert your vehicle until you have successfully wheeled it like it is. Because you (and me) have no idea what you want to improve.
That does not apply if you are just in love with the way it looks and that is all that is important to you. I have done exactly what you are doing with other things and you will spend 10 times as long in the shop as you would if you use what you have.
Unless you have lots of money. Add up how much money you think it will cost, then double that figure. Thats what your spending capital should be to get it done right and fast.
And I like this guy who is wheeling on 31's and keeping up with the Jeeps on 35's, tell me more..
10-18-2008, 09:07 AM
#25
Contributing Member
Wancosc356, keep in mind that you can take your vehicle to a local welder or fab shop and have all the SAS hangers welded on while the IFS is still in place. This is most likley true for any of the rear spring hangers you may or may not need added to the frame as well.
That is what I did for my SAS. It was much cheaper and allowed me to do the rest of the swap when I was ready in my own garage. Will save hundreds on labor. The swap itself can be done with simple hand tools such as an angle grinder and sawz-all. Heck, I didn't even have air tools for mine which is about as primitive as you can get.
Also, TC's figures are a bit slanted since he only adds up a full lift for the SAS and not the IFS truck. If you wanted to lift your IFS truck in this example, you'll still need to add money for that lift, rear springs, wheels and gears.
So:
Fix what you got (plus add the lift you mentioned):
CV's (2) - $140 with lifetime warranty from Autozone, Advance, etc
Locker - $200 lunchbox style (Aussie, Lockright, etc)
Shocks (4) - $160 several different versions of ProComp or Rancho
Front lift: many options... cost???
Rear lift - $600 to match the new height
Wheels/tires - $1000
TOTAL: $2240
I didn't add for a front IFS lift as there are many options. Also, if you stay low you might be able to get away with less than new springs for the rear.
SAS (welded elsewhere, labor done at home):
Axle - $250
Locker - $200 lunchbox, as above
SAS Kit - $1100
Rear lift - $600 to match the new height
Longfields - get a spare set of Birfs to start
Front driveshaft: options... cost???
Welding - $250
Wheels/tires - $1000
TOTAL: $3400
No front driveshaft has been mentioned which you will need. You could start with a square shaft to save some money, but that requires welding.
Both lifts could save money by looking harder at your rear lift options. Salvage some 63" Chevy springs or TG for example.
I think the SAS is going to run about $1500 more. Is it worth it, who knows.
I second SwampThing and recommend you bring extra Birfs until your can afford Long's. Birfs can usually be found pretty cheap at local salvage ($50 or so a pair) and are no harder to swap on the trail than CV's, IMO maybe easier.
All that said... a SAS or IFS truck is ultimately more about the driver and as TC said, your willingness to risk damage once trails increase in difficulty.
That is what I did for my SAS. It was much cheaper and allowed me to do the rest of the swap when I was ready in my own garage. Will save hundreds on labor. The swap itself can be done with simple hand tools such as an angle grinder and sawz-all. Heck, I didn't even have air tools for mine which is about as primitive as you can get.
Also, TC's figures are a bit slanted since he only adds up a full lift for the SAS and not the IFS truck. If you wanted to lift your IFS truck in this example, you'll still need to add money for that lift, rear springs, wheels and gears.
So:
Fix what you got (plus add the lift you mentioned):
CV's (2) - $140 with lifetime warranty from Autozone, Advance, etc
Locker - $200 lunchbox style (Aussie, Lockright, etc)
Shocks (4) - $160 several different versions of ProComp or Rancho
Front lift: many options... cost???
Rear lift - $600 to match the new height
Wheels/tires - $1000
TOTAL: $2240
I didn't add for a front IFS lift as there are many options. Also, if you stay low you might be able to get away with less than new springs for the rear.
SAS (welded elsewhere, labor done at home):
Axle - $250
Locker - $200 lunchbox, as above
SAS Kit - $1100
Rear lift - $600 to match the new height
Longfields - get a spare set of Birfs to start
Front driveshaft: options... cost???
Welding - $250
Wheels/tires - $1000
TOTAL: $3400
No front driveshaft has been mentioned which you will need. You could start with a square shaft to save some money, but that requires welding.
Both lifts could save money by looking harder at your rear lift options. Salvage some 63" Chevy springs or TG for example.
I think the SAS is going to run about $1500 more. Is it worth it, who knows.
I second SwampThing and recommend you bring extra Birfs until your can afford Long's. Birfs can usually be found pretty cheap at local salvage ($50 or so a pair) and are no harder to swap on the trail than CV's, IMO maybe easier.
All that said... a SAS or IFS truck is ultimately more about the driver and as TC said, your willingness to risk damage once trails increase in difficulty.
Last edited by Elvota; 10-18-2008 at 09:16 AM.
10-18-2008, 09:12 AM
#26
Contributing Member
Birf's are the stock inner axle assembly on a Toyota front axle. More specifically, the ends of this axle.
How they fail:
Long's (or Longfields) are vastly improved inner axles with a lifetime warranty against failure made by Longfield... thus the name.
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
Running 35's can be all right with stock Birf's. About the same as stock CV's. 37's or bigger you really have to upgrade or expect constant failures.
How they fail:
Long's (or Longfields) are vastly improved inner axles with a lifetime warranty against failure made by Longfield... thus the name.
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
Running 35's can be all right with stock Birf's. About the same as stock CV's. 37's or bigger you really have to upgrade or expect constant failures.
10-18-2008, 06:04 PM
#27
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Elvota...thanks for the info. I think your figures are good. I will definitely look into having the brackets welded on before everything. Great idea. Thanks man. You give me hope!
11-21-2008, 12:34 AM
#28
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Check my build thread I just bumped it I got TG springs front and rear.
The shop that did mine went out of business and no longer does them as far as I know. The place out in Rio Rancho (Big Time 4x4 I think?) does them but I hear their customer service is really bad, Steve Lesher might do it (Rio Rancho as well next to dump off northern SLC is name he's mostly jeep but has had a Toyota part or 2 in his shop) if he has the patience. I think there is another shop off Menaul I want to say (not the 4wheel parts but a bit further east on it) that may do them. I know Desert Rat won't do them. I know several people locally that have done builds and I have seen a few others around the ABQ area. As far as trails goes I think Tijeras has some fun FR's to play on. Rio Puerco can be a fun drive too. Unfortunately I haven't been around ABQ lately and have not had the Rig out much, it is parked for the time being. If you are going to chop your IFS then plan on beater backup car to get you to and from stuff during the down times.
I am on the forum from time to time or you can email me at spaceycayce@yahoo.com with other ?'s.
The shop that did mine went out of business and no longer does them as far as I know. The place out in Rio Rancho (Big Time 4x4 I think?) does them but I hear their customer service is really bad, Steve Lesher might do it (Rio Rancho as well next to dump off northern SLC is name he's mostly jeep but has had a Toyota part or 2 in his shop) if he has the patience. I think there is another shop off Menaul I want to say (not the 4wheel parts but a bit further east on it) that may do them. I know Desert Rat won't do them. I know several people locally that have done builds and I have seen a few others around the ABQ area. As far as trails goes I think Tijeras has some fun FR's to play on. Rio Puerco can be a fun drive too. Unfortunately I haven't been around ABQ lately and have not had the Rig out much, it is parked for the time being. If you are going to chop your IFS then plan on beater backup car to get you to and from stuff during the down times.
I am on the forum from time to time or you can email me at spaceycayce@yahoo.com with other ?'s.
02-28-2009, 08:31 PM
#30
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Off kilter went out of buisness almost a year ago. Big time 4x4 has a guy working there now named will. He is a toyota fanatic. He can get you a decent price, or point you in the right direction. Hell build it for you, and wheel with you the next weekend. Check it out...
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