96 t100 clutch disengagement problems
#1
96 t100 clutch disengagement problems
Okay so I have read through quite a few threads about the same problem I am having with my truck. My problem is that the clutch isn't working. It basically for the most part stays engaged.
I have checked the the pedal bracket. It is a black one not bare metal. Part# is on it and is 55107-34030. I have not pulled it yet, but it doesn't look broke from what I can see. Has anyone ever seen a new one that has broke?
Also I have replaced the clutch, master, slave, and all the lines. For some reason though my master cylinder adjustment has to be all the way out, so that only a few threads are left in the clevis that hooks to the pedal for the clutch do even somewhat disengage.
Everytime I bleed it I seem to get air. Wierd?!?
Please help me!!!
I have checked the the pedal bracket. It is a black one not bare metal. Part# is on it and is 55107-34030. I have not pulled it yet, but it doesn't look broke from what I can see. Has anyone ever seen a new one that has broke?
Also I have replaced the clutch, master, slave, and all the lines. For some reason though my master cylinder adjustment has to be all the way out, so that only a few threads are left in the clevis that hooks to the pedal for the clutch do even somewhat disengage.
Everytime I bleed it I seem to get air. Wierd?!?
Please help me!!!
Last edited by squezin22; 08-07-2012 at 04:36 PM.
#2
Do you know if the new brace was installed along with the new bracket? It would've been between the master cylinder and the firewall.
Yer gonna need someone to watch the firewall when you press on the clutch pedal. If the firewall flexes, then you will need to pull the clutch bracket and fix the firewall. Installing the new clutch pedal bracket/new brace won't fix the firewall if it was cracked.
Were the master and slave replaced with new or remanufactured parts? Bleeder screw(s) could be bad if yer units were remanufactured. Also, you could have a bad remanufactued unit.
Snap some piccies and post them up...
Yer gonna need someone to watch the firewall when you press on the clutch pedal. If the firewall flexes, then you will need to pull the clutch bracket and fix the firewall. Installing the new clutch pedal bracket/new brace won't fix the firewall if it was cracked.
Were the master and slave replaced with new or remanufactured parts? Bleeder screw(s) could be bad if yer units were remanufactured. Also, you could have a bad remanufactued unit.
Snap some piccies and post them up...
#3
There is a plate berween the MC and firewall. I checked and the firewall has got a little flex. Not sure if this is my problem. Is there a anywhere I should look for cracks? I don't really see any looking at it from under the hood. Master and slave are both from autozone so ptpbably remans.
Is there anything you want pictures of?
I really appreciate your help!
Is there anything you want pictures of?
I really appreciate your help!
#7
The plate, the firewall, and pedal bracket. Make sure you use the macro mode and git multiple piccies from various angles. The camera should be able to see things that we can see with our nekkid eye.
How many miles on the truck? Are you sure the clutch itself isn't bad? Might be time to put it up on a rack and inspect it. If there is too much resistance from a bad clutch, it can crack the firewall regardless of the new bracket. That force has to go somewhere.
How many miles on the truck? Are you sure the clutch itself isn't bad? Might be time to put it up on a rack and inspect it. If there is too much resistance from a bad clutch, it can crack the firewall regardless of the new bracket. That force has to go somewhere.
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#8
Problem solved!!! My firewall hadn't cracked, but had actually "bent" out. Hammered it back in, straightened out the plate that goes between the MC and firewall. Good to go. Thanks bamzippow for the help!
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