Price and other info on FJ40 Landcruiser
10-28-2013, 07:45 AM
#1
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Price and other info on FJ40 Landcruiser
Hi all,
So I may have the oportunity to get a 1976 FJ40 Landcruiser for about $5000. It is in good shape and has the 6 cylinder engine. I am not real familiar with Landcuisers, what should I watch out for and look for? Any information or advice would be great. Thank you.
Edit: Also, I forgot to mention, could this be a scam (only contact through email)?
So I may have the oportunity to get a 1976 FJ40 Landcruiser for about $5000. It is in good shape and has the 6 cylinder engine. I am not real familiar with Landcuisers, what should I watch out for and look for? Any information or advice would be great. Thank you.
Edit: Also, I forgot to mention, could this be a scam (only contact through email)?
Last edited by NorthGuy; 10-28-2013 at 08:25 AM.
10-28-2013, 06:19 PM
#2
I would investigate just cause I'm crazy that way.
Look for rust or badly bondo'd panels. Rear quarters, floorboards, area above running boards are highly susceptible to rust. The tops rust also, and the rear tailgate/ambulance doors on the bottom.
What area are you in? That has a bit to do with price also.
2F engine, should be 4spd trans, non vacuum shift t-case. Meaning it won't have the pullout for vacuum assist shifting. Match the truck VIN to the frame VIN. Located on the drivers side frame rail at the front of the vehicle. This will tell you if it's a different body from original frame. Check all steering components. There are several tie rod ends, center arm wears out often. Should be front disc on a 76. Rear drums, check wheel cylinders for leaking.
The 2F is basically a tractor motor, in my opinion. Not fast, but heavy as heck and torquey. If you swap the 2F for a Chevy small block, you LIGHTEN the truck 300-400 lbs...
Check for t-case linkage tightness. And driveshafts, slip-joints and u-joints.
If it's in good condition, very little/no rust, and runs, it's worth it. There are restored Cruisers, I mean every nut/bolt, going for $40-60K...
Look for rust or badly bondo'd panels. Rear quarters, floorboards, area above running boards are highly susceptible to rust. The tops rust also, and the rear tailgate/ambulance doors on the bottom.
What area are you in? That has a bit to do with price also.
2F engine, should be 4spd trans, non vacuum shift t-case. Meaning it won't have the pullout for vacuum assist shifting. Match the truck VIN to the frame VIN. Located on the drivers side frame rail at the front of the vehicle. This will tell you if it's a different body from original frame. Check all steering components. There are several tie rod ends, center arm wears out often. Should be front disc on a 76. Rear drums, check wheel cylinders for leaking.
The 2F is basically a tractor motor, in my opinion. Not fast, but heavy as heck and torquey. If you swap the 2F for a Chevy small block, you LIGHTEN the truck 300-400 lbs...
Check for t-case linkage tightness. And driveshafts, slip-joints and u-joints.
If it's in good condition, very little/no rust, and runs, it's worth it. There are restored Cruisers, I mean every nut/bolt, going for $40-60K...
Last edited by rokblok; 10-28-2013 at 06:21 PM.
10-31-2013, 03:53 PM
#4
Definitely a scam. Walk away...
Sorry you it turned out fake. There are others out there for sure. I bought my current 71 FJ40 for a few hundred bucks in south Alabama. And another one turned up 2days later for $300. I only ended up getting the 1st one and still have it. It's in pieces, as I got it, but the body is good. Just gotta find time...
Sorry you it turned out fake. There are others out there for sure. I bought my current 71 FJ40 for a few hundred bucks in south Alabama. And another one turned up 2days later for $300. I only ended up getting the 1st one and still have it. It's in pieces, as I got it, but the body is good. Just gotta find time...
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