SEAIRESCUE

These folks can make any gasket you need from copper and at many different thicknesses: http://www.headgasket.com/

I solved my 3.0 headgasket problem FOR GOOD with a solid copper gasket from these folks.

I spent a weekend at work modeling this concept on an engineering thermal analysis tool before concluding that the copper gasket was the solution to the problem. Good idea to use head studs vs bolts, delete the rear cross over exhaust, replace the clutch fan with a flex fan and install a new radiator as well.

I derive no benefits from promoting their products.

My $0.02

Justinlhc

I used copper spray on my head gaskets. I love that stuff. I think with a fixed/deleted factory crossover you shouldn't ever have a problem with head gaskets on a 3VZE....at least anything out of the normal or premature.

splavin90

my old shop teacher said to use copper head gaskets when you use lots of boost and nitrus.

DWEINBERG01

How would someone go about deleting the crossover exhaust? Sorry, i'm a newb.

Justinlhc

Headers. Plus you might get a slight boost in HP and MPG. It's a win-win-win.

White4Runner

This still "the way" for ending head gasket failures?

JohnVH

bump, curious also

91muddog

"the way" is called a 3.4 swap now!

93Xtra-Cab

Headers are the best way to end head gasket failures without having to take the head off. However, finding header sets is difficult because there are few that make them and those that do charge an arm and a leg for them. The very best way to end head gasket failures in general is to swap in a 3.4L.

MudHippy

This concept, however enticing, is unproven/unverified/unauthenticated/undocumented/etc./etc./etc.

MEANING, we really don't know for sure if what the OP has stated HAS ANY TRUTH TO IT WHATSOEVER!!! Since he fails to respond with any proof of it...as of yet. It's pure conjecture/estimation/guessing at this point. Merely an idea, and one not so novel I might add. Like he invented the idea of using them.

FYI, the way to solve a problem with one engine IS NOT to replace it with another.

Headers? Yes.

Solid copper head gaskets? Maybe. They should work great on this engine. But do they really? Show me...

Isn't the whole 3VZ-E head gasket "problem" really just WAY OVER-HYPED and BLOWN OUT OF PROPORTION though(pardon the pun)? BIG TIME!

If they fail you can also solve the "problem" by doing a proper(by the FSM) head gasket install with OEM(or equivalent) head gaskets. "Problem" solved.

Yeah...they're head gaskets...they'll eventually blow...then need replaced...GET OVER IT!!!

93Xtra-Cab

^He makes a good point. I never thought of it that way. There are a lot of them that never even have any head gasket problems. And I wasn't trying to make it seem like a 3.4 swap would be the most practical thing to do. It was just a suggestion.

tony d

The 3VZE engine does have head gasket issues. There was a recall on these trucks years ago when I first bought one. And it is always at cylinder 6 which just happens to be located right at the exhaust crossover junction. I can only guess that the additional heat due to poor exhaust flow and the extra mass to collect heat cause too much expansoin and contraction. Eventually ending up in gasket failure. If you ever pull one apart you will in my opinion see a poorly designed exhaust. I am tearing one down right now. It was dumping a quart of oil a week out of the number 6 corner. Bummer right! Well thanks for the tips. Im gonna try the copper gaskets and high grade studs.

nothingbetter

Sometimes OEm torque sepcs arn't enough. Toytoa did that with the 7m series engines. Factroy torque was around 58ft lbs. Headgasket ALWAYS blew between 75000 and 175000km. Common fix is a mhg, 80ft lbs and arp studs. And dont forget to retorque! So many people, replace the gasket, then don't re torque them after a few thousand km. Yes, it sucks having to dig into the engine again, but will give you peace of mind. 2-3 of my studs backed off a bit. If you re tourque your wheels, why not your head gasket?

big1000

^^ interesting. I definitely don't see any harm in torquing the head bolts a few ft-lb over. Excellent tip on re torquing after some mileage. Thanks. Also, what brand of gasket do you use nothingbetter?

MudHippy

He's talking out of his ass. He has no experience in the matter of 3VZ-E head gaskets and/or head bolts/studs. This is evident, due to the fact that you don't retorque the head bolts/studs on this engine. And that's because they aren't tightened in ft-lbs. They are tightened by turning them a specific number of degrees(180°) past their initial ft-lb torque setting.

If he knew those things, then he'd know that it's not possible to retorque them, to or past, a specified ft-lbs. Since there is no specified ft-lbs.

His choice of gasket brand would be equally as irrelevant. Since he has never installed one on a 3VZ-E(quite obviously).