tommyt11

Hey guys, new to the forum, been lurking for a while and learning without participating but now finally have something to ask you all regarding the process and parts involved in re-gearing.

I searched the forums pretty extensively (I think anyway) and found a lot on which gears to run with what set up, effects on speed, etc. but couldnt find everything I needed. I apologize if I have blatantly overlooked a thread containing this info and would really appreciate being linked to it/given its title. Not just trying to be lazy! That all being said, here goes:

I have just bought a 93 4Runner v6 4wd that has been lifted and is riding on 33x12.5 tires on 15 rims. I checked the vin sticker for gear ratio determinatin but didnt have anything to write with at the time so cant remember if it is G292 or G294 (Truck is still at his place so cant run out and look in the immediate future). Either way this, from what Ive read, translates to 4.10 gears. I have tenatively decided to upgrade to 5.29s to bring the truck back to roughly factory power band and fuel consumption and hopefully take some strain off of the trucks components and extend its life a bit. My rational for going with 5.29s over 4.88s because I dont have much need for that extra bit of cruising speed day to day, and when I do drive highway (a few big road trips a year) I am driving basically up and down mountains (I live on the west coast and drive back and forth through the rockies every summer) so the extra gear might be worth the loss in top end power. 5.29 gears should also offer compensation (maybe a little overcompensation but not by too much?) not only for the oversize tires but also their extra weight and the added wind resistance from being taller and wider. Hope Ive got everything right so far!

Note: To all concerned readers out there worried for the well being of my truck or myself, I will be having the install done by either a professional or a friend whose hobby is building trucks in his shop. I will make sure the truck is in good hands (read: not mine lol)

I would appreciate it if anyone could:

1) List all the parts required to fully complete this process

2) Recommend any particular brand/dealer for these parts (So far, it seems that Yukon is a good option?)

3) Potential changes in vehicle function and problems (if any) that a newbie may not be aware of

4) Recommend any good articles/books/youtube vids/etc. on this topic

Again, I apologize if I have missed a thread with these answers! I know that some of these questions, or more likely parts of these questions, might be answered to some extent in other threads, but might it not be good to have a thread where all the info is listed together?

Thanks for any input, in the eman time I will continue to research on my own. Let me know if I have left any important info out or have made any glaring mistakes lol

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

In addition to the ring and pinion, I'd suggest picking up a master install kit for each differential - that'll give you all new bearings and seals and everything to go with your fresh new gears. Pay close attention to the break in process, it'll go a long way towards determining how long your gears will last.

tommyt11

Thanks for the info Utah, have read a few times to grab a master install kit for each diff and I will definitely do that.

Could I ask you what is involved in the break in process? I actually havnt come across anyone describing that yet while searching the web.

Edit: After some reading, I have a basic understanding of whats invoolved.

Is there any particular break in protocol you know of/recommend for the 4Runner? Or is the break in method totally dependent on the make of the new gears?
I imagine a new set of ring and pinion with maste risntall would probably have a manual/brochure specifying how to break in the new gears safely?

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

I read a lot of different ideas when I was breaking in mine, and I'm no expert so I'd hate to steer you wrong by telling you any one method. You should google around, and definitely ask whatever company you end up deciding to buy gears from, but the basic idea is to run your gears through multiple heat-up and cool-down cycles, and avoid hitting one rpm and staying there, especially a high rpm. Windey trails with lots of short accelerations and braking are great, especially since you're doing the front diff too and will want to be in 4wd. Or do like 4crawler did, drop your rear driveline and tool around in front wheel drive. If you haven't spent any time on 4crawlers' site yet, do that. He's got a lot of great info there, including gear break-in tips.

tommyt11

Awesome man, thanks for the great info, Ill check him out

tommyt11

Any of you guys out there currently running 5.29s on 33s?
If so, what is driving in the city, high way, and/or off the pavement like with that set up?
Know this has been discussed before, but would be interested to hear any new opinions or experiences

Again, did a search, but 4.88 with 33s seems to be the consensus. However did find a few threads where guys were happy with 5.29 and 33s. I see this calculator referenced/posted a lot and it, if its accurate, seems to project that RPMs would not be too ridiculous at most crusing speeds...roughly 10% higher RPM (The math works out to ~8% increase)
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Calc info if youre interested in seeing the values:
Trans= R150F
Tran-case= Toyota with 2.66 low (Ive read the low is actually 2.28, but this wouldnt affect highway rpm-cruising speed relationship, right?)
Under-Drive Pulley= None
Gears= 5.29
Tires= 33

Miyoda

I went from stock 4.30 to 5.29's and 33 X 12.5.s. See sig below. I don't think you will see an appreciable mileage gain. Mileage actually dropped after the bigger mt tires, gearing didn't change it. Maybe made it worse due to higher rpms. That and its alot funner to drive (IE can't stay off the skinny pedal). I found all of my gears and locker by patiently watching craigslist. Though I did have everything checked over professionally before installing and did the "new gear" break-in procedure, even did the rear driveshaft removal ala 4crawler.

5.29's are great around town and the trail, as well as pulling my jetskis. But it is uncomfortable rpm wise to go any faster than 68mph or so on the highway. Luckily I don't DD drive my pickup on the highway very much. But 4.88's for your situation would probably be ideal.

tommyt11

Thanks miyoda, what would you say your revs were at at doing 70 mph?

Im really on the fence because 4.88s are obviously the more recommended ratio for this size of tire, but the added torque around town and going up and down those mountain highways is pretty appealing.

Im going to go in to a couple of 4x4 shops/stores in my area and see what the guys there say. Most of the evidence agrees with you though lol

Miyoda

3300 rpms or so. I am also battling a driveshaft vibration at 65 + under load, but that is related to pinion axle shim issue. My speedometer also reads 10% too fast according to GPS. That or everyone is passing me on the hwy at 90+mph. I think if I had 4.88s it would read accurate based on other research I have done.

I will keep the 5.29s in case I eventually upgrade to 35s, which I believe will fix my speedo issue as well. Like I said they are a blast down low.