Torque wrench
#1
Torque wrench
I believe in doing the job right the first time and wanted to know what torque wrench do you guys use. I picked one up at Autozone that was relatively cheap. I got one good use out of it. What I used it for was for a high torque application which was for tightening down my head after I replaced the gasket.
I have noticed that much lower torque requirements on smaller bolts. This torque wrench is not reliable on these lower torqued bolts. What do you guys have for the lower torqued bolts. The price ranges for torque wrenches are all over the board. Thanks.
I have noticed that much lower torque requirements on smaller bolts. This torque wrench is not reliable on these lower torqued bolts. What do you guys have for the lower torqued bolts. The price ranges for torque wrenches are all over the board. Thanks.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i use snap-on, but for the DIY person they are just too damn expensive. check out tooltopia.com. they have decent tools at decent prices. torque wrenches are a tool you don't want to cheap out on though.
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
To cover a reasonable range of torques, you need to get all three wrenches: 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" drives (though the 1/4" drive is really for that fancy carbon bicycle; you won't have many fasteners on a truck that could benefit from that).
Me, I'm quite happy with the wrenches from our friends at Harbor Freight. Whether you go Snap-On, Mac, or HF, you do need to think about calibration, at least after a while. There are a number of You-Tube videos that claim you "can" calibrate a torque wrench by using a digital adaptor like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-d...ter-68283.html . Of course, that's no more than comparing the calibration of one wrench to another; is the other one correct? Maybe if you use the electronic one only for calibration. (If you go that route, you have to get all three drive sizes again to cover the complete range).
Me, I'm quite happy with the wrenches from our friends at Harbor Freight. Whether you go Snap-On, Mac, or HF, you do need to think about calibration, at least after a while. There are a number of You-Tube videos that claim you "can" calibrate a torque wrench by using a digital adaptor like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-d...ter-68283.html . Of course, that's no more than comparing the calibration of one wrench to another; is the other one correct? Maybe if you use the electronic one only for calibration. (If you go that route, you have to get all three drive sizes again to cover the complete range).
#5
I purchased a new 1/2 drive SnapOn a long time ago. I decided to take a chance and purchased a used 3/8 drive SnapOn from epay and got lucky. Lastly I purchased a German made Syntace 1/4 drive wrench. It has both N-m and inch pounds on it. Scope is right, it came from a bicycle parts supplier and doesn't see much use.
I've read it a few times that torque wrenches are most accurate in their middle range, something to think about.
I've read it a few times that torque wrenches are most accurate in their middle range, something to think about.
#6
There is also an interesting video of a guy testing his wrench on YouTube. He was using weights at the end of the wrench. I'll see if I can find it.
The name doesn't matter as long as it is accurate. To that effect always turn it back down to 0 when done.
The name doesn't matter as long as it is accurate. To that effect always turn it back down to 0 when done.
#7
I got one of those you dial up and clicks. Except I found out it doesn't always click. I've broken a few bolts off and got some bad torque values from it.
Now I use an I-Beam torque wrench and calibrate it using weights. The only thing is it's sometimes hard to view the dial directly from the top when working in some spots. i thought the more expensive clicker style would have been better but the I-beam is allot cheaper and way more accurate.
Now I use an I-Beam torque wrench and calibrate it using weights. The only thing is it's sometimes hard to view the dial directly from the top when working in some spots. i thought the more expensive clicker style would have been better but the I-beam is allot cheaper and way more accurate.
Last edited by Innocent Fool; 11-06-2014 at 09:18 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
It IS better than nothing. Too much vibration can loosen the calibration stop on my wrench and I can end up way off. If you're willing to put up with something that isn't NIST-traceable, I recommend using one of these: . Chuck up the wrench on something solid (a lug nut), measure 12" down the handle, and pull up with the scale until it clicks.
#9
Registered User
Any wrench should be pulled from the center point on the hand hold when attempting to calibrate it, no matter how long, or short, the wrench is.
Edit: measurement of effective length must then be made and math must then be done to reduce the values found to foot pounds at the center.
I have watched torque tools being calibrated in aircraft engine shops.
They used snap-on calibration machines that did not require all this rigmarole.
It's not so easy to do a precision job at home.
Last edited by millball; 11-06-2014 at 11:45 AM.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
... The wrenches calibration takes this longer length into consideration. Weighting, or pulling from the 12 inch point won't give correct values.
Any wrench should be pulled from the center point on the hand hold when attempting to calibrate it, no matter how long, or short, the wrench is.
...
They used snap-on calibration machines that did not require all this rigmarole.
....
Any wrench should be pulled from the center point on the hand hold when attempting to calibrate it, no matter how long, or short, the wrench is.
...
They used snap-on calibration machines that did not require all this rigmarole.
....
Calibration machines seem much easier because they don't worry about the length of the wrench; they are applying pure torque to the head. You just drop the wrench in and push the button. Replicating this at home does require a basic knowledge of mechanics (torque) and a tiny bit of fabrication.
In the end, the problem with any calibration is "tracing" your calibration back to something you're sure is accurate. You can compare one wrench to another just by hooking them together with the appropriate size socket, but it's only a comparison. If your shop-built calibrator uses buckets of water (actually a good way to get a repeatable weight), then it's only as accurate as the volume measurement of the water.
But any calibration is better than just pulling a used wrench off eBay, so go at it!
#11
Registered User
All true, but high torque applied on long wrenches causes some small bending of the whole wrench mechanism. This deformation ( more properly, lack of it when pulled at alternate length) can cause the click-stop device to click at inappropriate force levels. If any precision measurement is expected from click-stop type wrenches, they must be pulled from their design point. Same is absolutely true of beam type wrenches.
Last edited by millball; 11-06-2014 at 01:51 PM.
#12
The video was mentioned as an example, again common sense must be used.
Last edited by Odin; 11-06-2014 at 02:21 PM.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes
on
81 Posts
Before y'all get too wrapped around the axle getting the last 1% of accuracy out of your torque wrench, keep in mind that the actual object of bolt tightening is to put a given axial load on the bolt. At best the relationship of bolt torque to axial load is probably about +/- 30%, depending on thread and surface cleanliness, lubrication, and other second order effects, so even with a perfect torque wrench the final results aren't all that precise. That's why critical bolts such as head bolts are usually tightened by "angle torquing" these days instead, which isn't really torquing at all, but translating precise angular rotation into bolt strain and consequent axial load based on the thread pitch.
The small 1/4 inch drive torque wrenches are good for measuring bearing preload. A beam type is best for this application.
The small 1/4 inch drive torque wrenches are good for measuring bearing preload. A beam type is best for this application.
#14
Contributing Member
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_re...rt=review-rank
The reviews on amazon.com are a great source to help make purchase decisions.
The reviews on amazon.com are a great source to help make purchase decisions.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hiluxinargentina
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
09-30-2015 05:51 PM