Power Steering Pump out
#1
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Power Steering Pump out
So my power steering pump went out. I'm trying to decide if I should buy a remanufactured on from Autozone for $60.00, then I have to put the old reservoir & pulley (I'm assuming that has to be pressed off the old & on the new), or buy one from the wrecker for $125.00 with reservoir & pulley. I refuse to pay $300+ at the dealer. Anyone have any experience with the whole reservoir / pulley switch? Does the pulley have to be done with a press? How hard is it to switch the reservoir?
#2
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I reused the reservoir and pully when changing mine 2 years ago. It wasn't a big deal. Just be sure to use a new o-ring on the reservoir part that connects to the pump. The pully wasn't a big deal to remove. Just loosen the nut with the belt still on the pump. That helps hold the pully from turning. You can buy a rebuild kit but for me that was a pain to deal with. so I just got a rebuilt pump. I did have problems with my pully nut coming loose after changing the pump. No matter how much I torqued that baby down after a month it would get loose. A split washer solved that problem.
Here's a link on rebuilding a second gen pump if you're interested.
http://members.cox.net/stacewilliams/ps-pump.htm
Here's a link on rebuilding a second gen pump if you're interested.
http://members.cox.net/stacewilliams/ps-pump.htm
Last edited by Steveh29; 06-27-2005 at 10:40 AM.
#3
For what it's worth, I removed the belt first and then the pulley. Idon't remember why, but perhaps I was thinking that I could remove the pump as a whole simply by removing the nuts, that is, untill I found out that the pulley blocks the inner pivot bolt.
When I came upon this discovery, I ended up clamping a pair of Vice Grips locking pliers on the back side of the pulley, flush up against it on the bead weld, and then used a "breaker bar" on the pulley mounting nut...worked like a charm.
Just another way of going about the same operation for those to know in case they need to.
When I came upon this discovery, I ended up clamping a pair of Vice Grips locking pliers on the back side of the pulley, flush up against it on the bead weld, and then used a "breaker bar" on the pulley mounting nut...worked like a charm.
Just another way of going about the same operation for those to know in case they need to.
#4
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I got the pump off & the reservoir & pulley off yesterday. The question I have now is: When I pulled the vacuum lines off the port mounted to the pump, one of the plastic sleeves broke off inside the vacuum line. I want to just get a new port, but I'm not sure what it's called. Anyone know what that part is? It looks like it's a temperature regulated vacuum port that bolts in to the bottom of the pump.
Thanks for all the info!
Thanks for all the info!
#5
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I called the dealer & found out that vacuum port is the Air Control Valve, & runs $110.00. So, I decided, it's just a vacuum line, I'm going to find a way around buying a new one. I can probably use a smaller line, or find something to shim up the smaller nipple for the correct size line. Thanks again for all the info.
#6
If you don't get it right, be wary of issues with your ABS because while the braking and power steering systems do not exchange/share fluids, they do share the vacuum pressure that the power steering develops (a fact I learned the hard way).
For this reason, I would strongly suggest that you pay a visit to a salvage/junk yard for the part if you're not into padding the stealerships pockets.
For this reason, I would strongly suggest that you pay a visit to a salvage/junk yard for the part if you're not into padding the stealerships pockets.
#7
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I've had these stupid little plastic hose barbs break off before. I've had success with fishing them out of the rubber hose and using JB Weld to glue them back on. Be careful not to clog the hose barb with JB Weld. Use it sparingly. Also salvaged one using a little piece of copper tubing JB Welded in when I couldn't find the broken plastic end of the hose barb.
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#8
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94- I appreciate the info. I'm going to try Steveh's suggestion first. I still have the plastic part. It just pisses me off that the stupid port costs so much. It's still $65 at the wreckers! Thanks again, everyone! I took the day off tomorrow so I can git-r-dun! (they need a little redneck smiley on here) I'll let you know how it goes.
#9
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Good luck. You may have to JB it twice. Once with just a little around the stem on the cracked part itself. Then a second blob around the outside for added support. It should work OK afterward and be strong enough to hold.
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