Passenger Power Window Problem
#1
Passenger Power Window Problem
Hey guys, I'm having problems with the passenger window. I have an 87 SR5 4runner. When I bought it, the passenger door had a busted electrical window switch. However, I was able to roll it up and down from the driver's master window/door lock switch.
Today I carefully removed the door panel and the switch. As soon as I did that, I went to roll up the window from the master switch and nothing happened. The driver's window still worked, but not the passenger. There is no power going to the motor.
I checked the motor by connecting it to the battery and it works so I know it's not the motor. My question is: Does each door have a relay? If so where are they or it?
Does anyone have any other inputs or suggestions?
Thanks again guys.
Today I carefully removed the door panel and the switch. As soon as I did that, I went to roll up the window from the master switch and nothing happened. The driver's window still worked, but not the passenger. There is no power going to the motor.
I checked the motor by connecting it to the battery and it works so I know it's not the motor. My question is: Does each door have a relay? If so where are they or it?
Does anyone have any other inputs or suggestions?
Thanks again guys.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
The main control powers the other windows through the switch for that window.
If you removed the switch for your right door it won`t work That switch has two sets of contacts
When the right window switch is in neutral it allows the master control to operate the window.
Just what is your end game here??
If you removed the switch for your right door it won`t work That switch has two sets of contacts
When the right window switch is in neutral it allows the master control to operate the window.
Just what is your end game here??
#3
Thanks for the help. I plugged the broken switch back in and I was able to roll the window up and down with the master switch.
Still need a bit of help though. The goal is to put 3 switches in the center console to control each of the windows. My buddy was able to do it using the exact switches as the back window like in the picture underneath.
The connector of the original window switch and a back window switch are exactly the same. Even down to the wire colors. The problem is that when I unplug the original window switch and connect the back window switch, nothing happens. No power goes to the passenger window. Here are a pictures of the connectors side by side.
My buddy is on vacation right now so I cant get to him to see how he wired everything up to work.
Any one have any thoughts to why the switches can't be directly swapped? Thanks again.
Still need a bit of help though. The goal is to put 3 switches in the center console to control each of the windows. My buddy was able to do it using the exact switches as the back window like in the picture underneath.
The connector of the original window switch and a back window switch are exactly the same. Even down to the wire colors. The problem is that when I unplug the original window switch and connect the back window switch, nothing happens. No power goes to the passenger window. Here are a pictures of the connectors side by side.
My buddy is on vacation right now so I cant get to him to see how he wired everything up to work.
Any one have any thoughts to why the switches can't be directly swapped? Thanks again.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
While they might look the same and have the same connectors and wire colors they are different.
I need to get out the door to work.
With a Meter you can figure out just how the back window switch works.
You plan to have both windows controlled by the switches in the console and no longer use the Master switch??
I need to get out the door to work.
With a Meter you can figure out just how the back window switch works.
You plan to have both windows controlled by the switches in the console and no longer use the Master switch??
#5
I want to have three back window switches in the center console. Just like the picture above.
I want the one on the left to control the drivers window. Middle to control the back window. And right to control the passanger window. I don't want to use the master switch anymore.
How can I go by checking the power with a meter?
Thanks again guys.
I want the one on the left to control the drivers window. Middle to control the back window. And right to control the passanger window. I don't want to use the master switch anymore.
How can I go by checking the power with a meter?
Thanks again guys.
#6
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As always, you will stray from the correct path, unless you follow The Good Book:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7powerwin.pdf
Unfortunately, this manual set doesn't include a rear-window switch, but just noodling the diagram tells me that the passenger-side switch and the rear-switch can't be the same, not withstanding the connectors.
But you don't really care; your plan is install a NEW system. Without the benefit of actually testing the wiring with a multimeter, I believe that the master switch leaves pins 2/3 on the passenger switch grounded when "off." The rear window switch is probably just a DPDT center-off switch, so it needs a +12 and ground to the two non-common pins. With the rear window switch, the switch then just reverses the polarity of the two "common" pins going to the rear window motor.
Why do you care? Now, the R-G and R-B wires going to the passenger switch are both at ground (and when you pull the driver's side switch, they'll both be "open.") You need a +12v and ground to feed to your replacement rear switch, used on the passenger side.
Am I sure? No. That's why you've got 10 minutes of meter work ahead of you. Just confirm the operation of the switches, and get 12v "with key-on" from the door lock circuit.
PS: I wouldn't advise skipping the meter work by just "well, let's plug it in and see if it works this time." There's plenty of ways to hook it up so moving the switch just shorts 12v to ground. In the time it takes the fuse to let go, you could ruin the switch contacts.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7powerwin.pdf
Unfortunately, this manual set doesn't include a rear-window switch, but just noodling the diagram tells me that the passenger-side switch and the rear-switch can't be the same, not withstanding the connectors.
But you don't really care; your plan is install a NEW system. Without the benefit of actually testing the wiring with a multimeter, I believe that the master switch leaves pins 2/3 on the passenger switch grounded when "off." The rear window switch is probably just a DPDT center-off switch, so it needs a +12 and ground to the two non-common pins. With the rear window switch, the switch then just reverses the polarity of the two "common" pins going to the rear window motor.
Why do you care? Now, the R-G and R-B wires going to the passenger switch are both at ground (and when you pull the driver's side switch, they'll both be "open.") You need a +12v and ground to feed to your replacement rear switch, used on the passenger side.
Am I sure? No. That's why you've got 10 minutes of meter work ahead of you. Just confirm the operation of the switches, and get 12v "with key-on" from the door lock circuit.
PS: I wouldn't advise skipping the meter work by just "well, let's plug it in and see if it works this time." There's plenty of ways to hook it up so moving the switch just shorts 12v to ground. In the time it takes the fuse to let go, you could ruin the switch contacts.
#7
Scope. I'm not exactly sure what pin to test for 12 volts.
But let's go back to basics. The thing I want to do is get my power windows working.
Currently my power widows don't work. Both passanger and driver. The master switch is in operating conditions (I checked all continuity according to FSM). Both window motors work. All circuit breakers are good as well as fuses under the drivers dash. The lock button on the master switch also works.
I assume I have to check for 12V somewhere on the master switch plug. But I'm not sure where.
Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks again guys.
But let's go back to basics. The thing I want to do is get my power windows working.
Currently my power widows don't work. Both passanger and driver. The master switch is in operating conditions (I checked all continuity according to FSM). Both window motors work. All circuit breakers are good as well as fuses under the drivers dash. The lock button on the master switch also works.
I assume I have to check for 12V somewhere on the master switch plug. But I'm not sure where.
Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks again guys.
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#11
I assume I need to look at the Power Window and Door Lock Control Relay. Does anyone know where this is located? I looked under the dash by the clutch pedal but couldn't see much.
Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like on an 87 4runner?
Thanks again.
Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like on an 87 4runner?
Thanks again.
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
According to the 87EWD 88EWD It should be near the ECU maybe even inside the right door post.
As soon as the thunderstorm passes I will go look.
I just hate to shower and do laundry at the same time.
I think I see a problem just what is your production date??
86 Has the Door control relay up in the dash just to the right of the gauge cluster
As soon as the thunderstorm passes I will go look.
I just hate to shower and do laundry at the same time.
I think I see a problem just what is your production date??
86 Has the Door control relay up in the dash just to the right of the gauge cluster
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