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(Updated into a complete Fuel Pump Replacement Post)
BACKGROUND:
I already bought spare/replacement OEM (Denso) fuel pump, I think it would be a good idea to install early when it would be easier to return if it did not fit or work. My long cranks before combustion issue also seemed to occur more often, so...
Here's an excellent reference video from our very own ARLindsay.
I soaked it in PB blaster for a few days but still would not budge, using 14-mm and 19-mm flare nut wrenches. I already released fuel pressure (cranked with fuel pump wire disconnected, and my fuel pressure gage piggybacked on CSI reads zero). Ended up increasing moment arms using extra wrenches.
HARBOR FREIGHT FLARE NUT WRENCH SET HAS BOTH 14-MM AND 19-MM WRENCHES. Sets from other brands did not have 19-mm.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-28-2022 at 11:20 PM.
have you tried to remove the pump without disconnecting that line? pull the other hoses, and try it. it has been a few years since i pulled one (and i should remember, since i went through 8 or so fuel pumps in 18 months back then), but it might be possible to get the pump assembly out with the feed line still attached....
if that doesn't work, use a hammer to smack the flat surface of the 19mm flare, perhaps with a rag stuffed between it and the tank to cushion/support it. the vibration should allow the 14mm to eventually break free...
Thanks, guys! Used cheater wrenches and it worked. Just trying to see if there were a gentler approach. Yes, smacking is actually legit and S.O.P. on some projects. (I..e, instructions for Pitman arm removal tool says to smack.)
Got more lessons learnt from this endeavor. Will post more later. Trucks runs well!
I found the pre-filter/sock screen torn. This means bigger debris could end up in the final fuel filter which is harder to replace. This is an eye-opener; even if the truck is working well. It is a good idea to inspect. When and how often? Please read on. PRE-FILTER SOCK SCREEN TORN NEW PRE-FILTER IS SMALLER THAN OLD ONE. Yes, I installed clip after photo was taken.
Old pump resistance was low @4.5 ohms, while new pump resistance is higher @49 ohms. Resistance went down to 23 ohms when pump was installed (submerged in fuel). The FSM does not mention anything about resistance, but I think this could be an indicator of the condition of the fuel pump. I will measure again later at the connecter near top-right-rear corner of the fuel tank. Perhaps low resistance reading may be a good prompt to inspect the fuel pump? NEW PUMP RESISTANCE HIGH. WENT DOWN TO 23 OHMS ONCE INSTALLED. I WILL CHECK AFTER A COUPLE OF WEEKS OLD PUMP RESISTANCE IS LOW @ 4.5 OHMS FUEL PUMP CONNECTOR IS NEAR TOP-RIGHT-REAR CORNER OF FUEL TANK
New hose is thinner than old one and it came with only one hose clamp. Old clamps are too big for the new hose, so I just backed it up with common worm-gear hose clamp. I suggest that when you get your replacement pump, you check inventory right away and ask vendor to fix issues. NEW HOSE THINNER THAN OLD HOSE NEW HOSE THINNER THAN OLD HOSE AND KIT ONLY CAME WITH 1 SPRING HOSE CLAMP. OLD CLAMPS ARE TOO BIG FOR NEW HOSE SO I JUST BACKED ONE UP WITH WORM-GEAR CLAMP
Rubber cushion has turned gummy. It still holds the pump securely so I reused it and will shop for replacement. PUMP RUBBER CUSHION TURNED GUMMY
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-28-2022 at 10:58 PM.
surprised a new cushion wasn’t included. all 7 or 8 of the pumps i installed had the cushion and filter.
also jealous about the excellent condition of your untreated frame and body panels. that would be the only thing about CA that appeals to me over new england.
I have heard that the spring clamps are superior to worm-gear clamps. Probably because the spring clamps hold a (more-or-less) constant tension despite expansion and contraction. But I've not seen an authoritative source. (But a lot of internet-grade conflicting opinions -- add yours here.)
I like spring clamps. They don’t seem to be as hard on the hose when tightened.
I still remember ages ago when a friend from Detroit who came to So Cal for the first time to spend a week. He spent the first day standing on the freeway overpass watching all the 20+ year old vehicles drive by. He was in total awe that so many had survived.
Scope and Jimkola, Agree about spring clamp being superior. Darn it, I forgot to measure OD of my new fuel hose! oh well.
Yes, Wallytoo. I was surprised cushion did not come and only one clamp was included in the kit
I never disconnected that line to replace my pump and screen. Good idea to double clamp the hose ends. My pump 'failure" was because the top hose with a single clamp came off completely. The pump was fine, but 15 years old. So had it apart with a new pump in hand, time to replace.
Last year when I was resurrecting the 1994 DLX pickup that I rescued from my friend who had let it sit for way too long and about 187K on the odometer, we battled this fuel line (PN: 23091 35060) connection as well. We didn't have the luxury of the 4Runner access panel so we were really struggling to get the torque to remove the line.
The truck (22RE) was struggling to make power above 2500rpm which was traced to a fuel system problem.
In the interest of speed we cut the line which we then found out that this line was very rare to find a new replacement. My friend, being the innovative MacGyver guy that he was, was able to fabricate an aluminum tubing sleeve that we connected the hose ends together and put clamps on it.
The fuel tank and pump and sock were totally nasty with rust and sediment. I took the tank to a radiator shop (since I needed the truck quickly for a trip and a new tank was 4 days away) and had it chemically cleaned.
I subsequently was able to source a new hose a few weeks later and have it stored in the extended cab cubby.
Oh, and the fuel filter was changed as well and that was another PITA to do with the intake manifold in place .
09-22-2022, 01:43 PM
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