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Cylinder Honing

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Old 01-05-2010, 07:30 PM
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Mudhippy Great post.......Vielen dank
Old 01-05-2010, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Teuf
Mudhippy Great post.......Vielen dank
Yeah I agree.
Would be even better if it answered the OP's questions.
Old 01-06-2010, 02:28 PM
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makes me want to go to the dealership for some test drives..
Old 01-06-2010, 08:24 PM
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I'm deciding to buy a new block and build it from ground up...i'm giving my complete engine to my brother. Or maybe make a project out of it. Don't care though.

This way, I can spend time on my rebuild and make sure to do everything right!

And I'll have the machine work done buy a machine shop!
Old 01-06-2010, 08:31 PM
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Good luck.
Really, I mean it. Not being sarcastic.
Old 01-06-2010, 08:37 PM
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Thank you abe!

You're a good man
Old 01-08-2015, 02:46 PM
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well did he redo everything or did he just replace the rings. i had the same problem on a car i once had,the guy rebuilt the engine and it ran bad from day one i took the pistons out replaced the rings, easy pleasy ran great,no smoke, plenty of power, ran from kennewick washington to seattle no problems.
Old 01-08-2015, 06:38 PM
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I know this is an old thread but, I had issues with the rings seating on my motor.
Seems the machine used too fine a grit hone for the chrome rings that came with the engine kit and they never seated...even after 20,000+ miles.
Here's how I did my in truck re-ring job:
With the block torn down, cut a tight fitting disc from an old coffee can lid to seal the bottom of the cylinder, used a 250 grit flex hone (you just want to break the glaze, stone type hones can remove too much material) and reassembled it with Sealed Power cast rings (make sure ring gaps aren't too tight, file fit if need be).
Truck runs great, oil stays clean and hasn't used a drop in about 2,500 miles now!
Hans
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