abecedarian

go to IHOP and get the maple syrup... is it thinner when hot or thinner when cold?

91Toyota

So true. Didn't even think of that. I don't worry about oil pressure though...mostly because I don't have a gauge. lol

thinner when hot...or at least I would think. Like 10w-30. 10w = 10 winter so thicker
30 = hot and thinner...right? LOL

dutchboy

This coming weekend Im gonna change the thermostat. Wether it needs it or not. Im just skeptical.It's cheap and it's an easy fix.
Tomorrow when I head to work,which is an 70 minute drive,one way. I will check all scenerios before during and after I get to work.
I want to feel the bottom hose after driving it for a good distance. I will take pics of the guage well after the warm up,as to cancel any mis-thoughts.
I will even try to snap some pics of the guage(s) while driving (it's all highway),but I will forwarn...it's not gonna be the exact same 100% camera view. No need for me to build a rig inside the cab to hold the friggin camera in the exact same spot every time a pic is snapped. This isnt Mythbusters. :>)


Btw...anyone know anything about "rear anti lock"?
That idot light that glows "rear anit lock" has been on since the day I bought the rig 4 yrs ago.
Is that supposed to be lit up at all times like it is in my pics?

abecedarian

rear anti lock... hmmm... having the light lit up is a warning to the driver that there is a problem with the anti-lock brake system operating properly.
If you're not willing to have a certified tech look at it, at least tell us where you're going to be driving over the next few thousand miles, okay?

abecedarian

but what's the diff between a 10w and a 10?

dutchboy

Hahahaha.... I live in Lancaster,Pa. Other than the 2 Toyota dealerships in these parts(one of which im not allowed in after a scrap with the shop manager for breaking my idler arm and not replacing it), their is no one that knows how to work on Yota brakes,let alone willing.
The brakes do suck on this thing. Only get solid pedal at halfway on pedal stroke. Compared to other vehicles I drive,pedal pressure is almost instant.
By any chance might you know what the light is signifying? You enlightened me as it is the rear anti lock brakes,but can you be more specific?
Do you have knowledge in the rear anti lock system?
I put new rear brake shoes on last summer and they were a little more work,than say a '71 Chevy rear brake set up.
Btw...that rear anti lock was glowing well before I did the rear brake job. I bought the rig used 4 years ago and the light was on then.
The rig stops "OK",but I fear if I ever have to slam the hooks on hard.
I did once on a back road and it cruised right on through an empty(luckily( intersection.
Now I just keep good distance to anything in front of me.
Ive been on a mad rampage for a long time now to fix these rear brakes,but everyone I talk to doesnt know anything about them.
I replaced master cylinder as well. bench blead it, and blead all the corners. Still,only solid pressure on the pedal at half mast.
Everythning is halves in my friggin rig.
Wtf I ask!?
:>)

abecedarian

the rear antilocks are what most would consider a safety feature since most any vehicle with locked rear brakes will turn around the wrong way when the brakes lock up, meaning a vehicle with the rear brakes locked will slide backwards.

there is a specific brake bleeding recommendation for trucks with the anti-lock brakes, so maybe find a shop that can do it... and for the record most firestone, goodyear, pepboys and napa mechanics can do it. so, go get it fixed.

dutchboy

"there is a specific brake bleeding recommendation for trucks with the anti-lock brakes",


Yeah...I understand the purpose of rear anti lock brakes and I am in the process of scheduling time at a very reputable shop in these parts and most likely gonna come out with the same results. Piss poor brakes and no answers as to why. They're gonna bleed the sytem the same as I did.

So what is the "recommendation" to bleeding the brakes on a Yota compared to any other truck,suv or car?
I blead them the way I was tought in auto mechanics school and the what the factory service manual recomends.

So me and my certified mechanic friends,that put the master cylinder on and blead the entire system is not good?
We blead the corners starting with the farthest one from the M.C.
Pryor to the M.C. install,we did bench bleed it.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

if its worth it, my gauge reads the same as yours does now... just a hair under halfway... seems to mee that if it were any lower it might be bad because the coolant isnt getting up to temp...

might wanna, when you check tomorrow, check the lower hose to see if theres actually water running through it when it is running... if not, maybe a blocked radiator??

zlathim

Wow Abe, who pissed in your cheerios?

GSGALLANT

Your lower rad hose will never get hot... otherwise, your radiator is not doing its job. That's about where my guage sits normally (a hair under halfway).

For your ABS, did you check to see if the ABS sensor connector is still there and connected properly on top of your rear axle? Simple, I know... but worth checking if you haven't already.

As far as your pedal travel, have you properly adjusted the rear brakes after you installed them (I adjust mine every oil change to keep them tight... the auto adjusters don't keep them as tight as they should be kept, so they do require periodic adjustment to keep them working as well as possible). If you didn't adjust them, do a search on adjust rear brakes... you'll find lots of info on how to do it.

GSGALLANT

I'm not sure if this is what you're asking here, but that would be called your water outlet. The coolant passes through the top idler pulley (just behind the black cover) there as it comes out of your engine. I'm not sure what the J shaped hose that comes out towards the driver side is... mine doesn't have that (difference between years, maybe... mine's a '93).

Keith B.

Either Tstat is bad or radiator is clogged. Also, Toyota temp gauges run anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 as normal warmed-up operating temp. Your normal was about 1/3 up. If you change the sensor, it'll change to another reading as normal, specific to that sensor. Ultimate check is the handheld infrared thermometer, of course.