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compression testing procedure?

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Old 01-05-2007, 03:41 PM
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compression testing procedure?

I did a comresssion test tonight on my 22re with a borrowed tester. I never did this before so I just did the following.

It was a snap-on tester and there was various hose fittings for different size spark plugs. I found the right size, but it did not have the valve core in it, some had the core in and some didn't.

So what I did was just watched the gauge jump up and down as the engine was turned over. I was getting 118psi one one cylinder and 120+ on all the others.

Should I have installed a valve core from one of the others hose fittings? It seems like that would just keep increasing the pressure in the gauge with each stroke?

What is the correct procedure for testing?
Old 01-05-2007, 04:01 PM
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Basic procedure for compression testing is to warm up the engine, remove the plugs, attach the guage, fully open the throttle late and turn the engine over about 5 times. I've never noticed if they have a valve core or not.
And the specs for a 89-95 22RE are:
Normal - 171 psi
Minimum - 142 psi
Max variation between cylinders - 14 psi

So if you're really getting around 120 then that's low.
Old 01-05-2007, 10:38 PM
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Sorry to hijack but do you know the specs for a 3.0?
Old 01-05-2007, 11:05 PM
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the specs for the v6 are the same.
Old 01-06-2007, 04:27 AM
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remove all plugs so the engine doesnt start correct? It's been a few years since i did a compression check to and my memory blows

=)
Old 01-06-2007, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by drew303
remove all plugs so the engine doesnt start correct? It's been a few years since i did a compression check to and my memory blows

=)
Yes and i always disconnect the coil wire that runs to the distributor.
Old 01-06-2007, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by drew303
remove all plugs so the engine doesnt start correct? It's been a few years since i did a compression check to and my memory blows

=)
you don't have to remove all the spark plugs, at once.

it wont matter since, you should disable the ignition system and the fuel system, by pulling the wire on the distributor and pulling the fuel pump fuse.

also in the service manual they recommend dropping a few drops of oil in the cylinder if the compression in a little low and/or if the truck has been sitting, you should have the engine warm (not hot) when you do this too.
Old 01-06-2007, 06:56 AM
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From the 93 truck FSM, 22re engine:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../6compress.pdf
Old 01-06-2007, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by spacoli

So what I did was just watched the gauge jump up and down as the engine was turned over. I was getting 118psi one one cylinder and 120+ on all the others.

Should I have installed a valve core from one of the others hose fittings? It seems like that would just keep increasing the pressure in the gauge with each stroke?

What is the correct procedure for testing?
Yeah it sounds like your tester wasn't holding the compression from each stoke. It must have been letting the pressure out after each stoke. It should get a little higher each time it turns over until the max is reached, (maybe 5-7 strokes). Must have needed one of those valve cores.
Old 01-06-2007, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by pruney81
Sorry to hijack but do you know the specs for a 3.0?
From the same 93 truck FSM for a 3VZ-E

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...66compress.pdf
Old 01-08-2007, 06:01 AM
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Definately put the pin in. I have the same tester too.

MAKE SURE the coil wire is disconnected COMPLETELY. While doing some electrical tests, I removed only one end and the tip was close enough to the coil that the damned thing still started.
Old 01-08-2007, 07:42 AM
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Are the compression spec's for the 22-R the same as the 22-RE?
Old 01-08-2007, 07:58 AM
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I believe they are.
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