coil/igniter- test help needed
#1
"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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coil/igniter- test help needed
My 89 pick-up 3.0vze still won't fire. I have two threads going now. So far I have replaced my Distributor/wires and coil. I have voltage @ the black/ red wire on both coil and igniter. The black /white wire on the coil would not light my test light and I have no continuity between coil and igniter on the black / white . If I have voltage with the key on does this mean the ecm is okay. I have no engine check light now when I turn the key on. I jumped the TE 1 and E1 and still no check engine light.
#2
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My 89 pick-up 3.0vze still won't fire. I have two threads going now. So far I have replaced my Distributor/wires and coil. I have voltage @ the black/ red wire on both coil and igniter. The black /white wire on the coil would not light my test light and I have no continuity between coil and igniter on the black / white . If I have voltage with the key on does this mean the ecm is okay. I have no engine check light now when I turn the key on. I jumped the TE 1 and E1 and still no check engine light.
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"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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#4
"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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The round efi may be blown tried testing forcontinuity but it has four prongs . I'm not sure how to test it.
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#6
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Testing....one, two, three....testing
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...95efimainr.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...95efimainr.pdf
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#8
"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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#9
"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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Well I tested my round EFI fuse in the box on the passenger fender in engine compartment and thought it was bad . I bought a new one at the parts store and still no spark . Then a friend stopped by who is an electric whiz and we tested the old fuse and he said it looked good to him it passed all the test for continuity. Well I put the new fuse in . He helped me test for continuity on the black/white wire that goes from the igniter plug to the coil. The metal prongs in the plugs have continuity only on one side.So the only way it might work is that the plg has to lineup just right or no spark. I'm calling Toyota dealer tomorrow morning and ordering the new plugs.I'll keep you posted
#10
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If the check engine light does not come on when the key is turned on or when the diagnostic terminal is jumped. It is usually a sign that the ECM is not "powering up" which would also result in a no-start condition.
It could be a problem with the check engine light circuit but that is unlikely
It could be a problem with the check engine light circuit but that is unlikely
#11
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S'alright. Just hate being called Matt. Thanks.
After the experience I've recently had, Pete, I would test your ECM. The test is very simple......nothing to tear down to get to it....and it would help matters tremendously to be able to rule it out. If it is a problem, you could be running around the vehicle forever until you did rule it out. If it's fine... happy, happy....joy, joy.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/102engin.pdf
After the experience I've recently had, Pete, I would test your ECM. The test is very simple......nothing to tear down to get to it....and it would help matters tremendously to be able to rule it out. If it is a problem, you could be running around the vehicle forever until you did rule it out. If it's fine... happy, happy....joy, joy.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/102engin.pdf
#12
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My 89 pick-up 3.0vze still won't fire. I have two threads going now. So far I have replaced my Distributor/wires and coil. I have voltage @ the black/ red wire on both coil and igniter. The black /white wire on the coil would not light my test light and I have no continuity between coil and igniter on the black / white . If I have voltage with the key on does this mean the ecm is okay. I have no engine check light now when I turn the key on. I jumped the TE 1 and E1 and still no check engine light.
No continuity on that wire means no signal/current through it, either. This I'm sure you know. So, yeah....that must be fixed.
If the connectors themselves are good and it's just a break in the wire, you could perform a solder surgery on it. ?????
#13
"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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Okay, found the thread quickly reaching the bottom of the page...
No continuity on that wire means no signal/current through it, either. This I'm sure you know. So, yeah....that must be fixed.
If the connectors themselves are good and it's just a break in the wire, you could perform a solder surgery on it. ?????
No continuity on that wire means no signal/current through it, either. This I'm sure you know. So, yeah....that must be fixed.
If the connectors themselves are good and it's just a break in the wire, you could perform a solder surgery on it. ?????
#15
"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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My other thread www.yotatech/f1163-0-ecm-89pick-up-fsm-131904
#16
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Pete, go through the steps outlined about - there is no better trouble shooting procedure than the FSM.
In my experience, it's usually the pickup on the distributor, but if you go throught the FSM procedure, we'll be much better equipped to help.
In my experience, it's usually the pickup on the distributor, but if you go throught the FSM procedure, we'll be much better equipped to help.
#17
"pete f passed away quietly in his sleep on July 13, 2008
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You are right I think I found my problem . My EFI main relay failed continuity. I ordered one today. Last week when I got code 12(distributor) and 51(Throttle position sensor) are all connected on the current line. I think I'm on the right track now.Thanks to the FSM.
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