branw97469

Alright I'm about to burn this thing to the ground. I get in it the other day after parking it and it starts and then dies. Spudders out like the VAFM isn't working. So I get a new one, still. Get a new fuel filter and It died a few times and then ran for 10 minutea and hasnt ran for more than 5 seconds since. Check all the vacuum lines and nothing. Checked the fuel pressure and it's good. And now it only starts if you let it sit for 15 minutes but it still dies after 5 seconds. I'm at a lose here and I have no idea whatsoever what the hell it could be. The truck is an 87 but it has an LCE block that has under 9k miles.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I am not the one with knowledge but maybe a ba ecu. Not sure if it would cause that. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me will help you out. What year truck?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Never mind on year I just reread your post I'm tired sorry about the dumb question

scope103

How did you check the fuel pressure? What number did you get?

Where is your timing set? (check it -- don't go from memory, it could have changed)

If you replaced the fuel filter because it was time to, you may have gotten dirt in the injectors. Take out the plugs one at a time; are they wet (fuel) or dry? Wet points to ignition, so use your timing light on each plug wire to check for firing.

branw97469

No problem. I was saying a lot of stupid stuff last night. This has me stressed as hell and it's tiring me out.

scope103

How did you check the fuel pressure? What number did you get?

Where is your timing set? (check it -- don't go from memory, it could have changed)

If you replaced the fuel filter because it was time to, you may have gotten dirt in the injectors. Take out the plugs one at a time; are they wet (fuel) or dry? Wet points to ignition, so use your timing light on each plug wire to check for firing.

branw97469

I had a buddy check fuel pressure cause I was fed up and pissed off. I think he said it was somewhere in the 30s. And I tried starting it with the timing on 3, 5, 8, 10, and 12 degrees. And the plugs are getting wet. They are sparking but it's a few dull spark.

scope103

"few dull spark"? I'm not a big fan of visually inspecting the spark (anything that looks like a spark will ignite gasoline), but if you have wet plugs and inadequate spark I would at least put the timing light on each plug wire to see if they are actually firing. Or replace the coil (not the ignitor; that's too expensive to replace on spec).

Could you be flooding? If the spark is good and there are "wet" plugs, they will either fire, or fail to fire from too much fuel. Starting after sitting 15 minutes is another indicator of flooding. You could have an injector stuck open (from dirt?) which would probably affect one more than another.

And since you didn't check the fuel pressure yourself, don't know what pressure was found, and don't know the spec fuel pressure (http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...28fuelpump.pdf) it is possible that a bad FPR has too much pressure on the injectors.

branw97469

Sorry, Very dull spark* I was so tired yesterday. I started on it in the morning and went til 10pm without any breaks besides going to get parts, and without eating.

I picked up a coil and igniter off a running 88 today. They both look brand new so I'll give them a go later today and I have a yard ready to get me an ECU if need be on Monday. Next I will check out the injectors.

On an upside, I scored a pair of 12" travel pro comp shocks for $50 brand new still in the box. Getting the rear all done. I'm also picking up a rear end housing for dirt cheap and getting it set up for four link and all prettied up. I'll be sitting on it until I get a new third member to put in it. Maybe rolling with an e-locker or air locker, if anyone's got gear ratio advice on that one the input would be appreciated. I'm running 33x12.50's and i'm not going any bigger.

Even when it's being a pain I still love my Yota. It's a good truck, and even when it's not running its a damn sexy driveway ornament!

branw97469

Okay guys. The problem isn't solved yet. New fuel pump and filter, AFM, Fuel pressure regulator, injectors were clean, all the vacuum lines checked. It's getting fuel, it's getting air and it's getting spark. But it is throwing codes 12, 22, 24, 31, 41 and 51. I looked all of them up but half of them have been replaced and I've reset the codes 4 times. Is the ECU toast??

AZ89LONGBED

iTrader: (3)

The common denominator is the ecu, but it sounds like a couple of issues. Have you checked the distributor air gap? There's a link to the fsm on here somewhere that describes how to check it. You might want to start looking for a scrapyard ecu....

branw97469

Not familiar with distributor air gap. Would that cause the start and stall problem? Oh and a new thing started today. Every once in awhile when I try to start it it has a horribly loud pinging in the top end. It's not constant. It's just like once per revolution some of the time.

branw97469

Anybody? I really need help on this one. All the grounds have been cleaned and some replaced so they are all good. The timing is where it needs to be, the AFM has been tested, the fuel pump, filter and regulator are all new and fuel pressure checks out. It cranks just fine but putters and sounds like it wants to start. If you let it sit for a few minutes it will start once and die. And for the past week it has sounded perfectly healthy when it's running for that 5 seconds but now it's got a horrible noise coming from the top end. The block was from LCE and only has 8k on it. The top end is the original and has 194k. The truck has been welded on with the battery hooked up but has never had any electrical problems besides a loose starter wire. And like I mentioned before its pulling a bunch of codes. All are for different things but are all very important. If it is could be the ECU how could I test it and what else could be wrong???? This is my only vehicle so it's very important and I've got about a week before not having transportation starts ruining my life.

branw97469

Ok so I dropped a new ECU in it and it only pulls one code now. Which is code 6 no rpm signal. Checked the air gap and it's about .022 in. Which is 0.006 in out of tolerance. Would this cause it??

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

It could i suppose I don't know how tight of tolerances it built to. 6 codes to 1 code. What was the ecu out of same same? If it was from a different rig might be a different connection pattern and just a signal not getting through. Just a thought hope it helps
Good luck

branw97469

Alright so I've got it running. It was the green wire coming off the igniter. It pulled out of its connector. It's all fixed now. And that ECU was out of a 87 so it is the right one. Now the only thing left it an injector seal that was bad.

branw97469

Ah it's so close to being done so now I'm in desperate need of assistance.

So 3 of the isolators on the injectors are shot, I figured they would be but my problem is that I got the truck to start and stay running. It misses a lot, I figure it has something to do with the fuel leaking from the injectors so I'm not worried about that yet. My concern it the god awful tapping noise coming from the top end. Could the injectors cause that?? I can take a video if need be tomorrow.

bbrideau

the loud tapping sound could be your valve lash is out. cold check is 0.20 intake side and 0.30 exhaust side. cant remember the warm measurments.

branw97469

Seeing as I adjusted the valves 4 weeks ago and the problem occurred after putting the injectors with mostly ˟˟˟˟ty seals in them I was kinda thinking something related to that. This isn't a valve clearance tap. Waaayyy louder.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You should invest in a mechanics stethoscope and figure out exactly where the noise you hear is originating. Much easier than chasing it around fiddling with things they're like 3$ at harbor freight, in a pinch you can use a long screw driver or even a stick.

Worn out valve cover grommets and an over tightened valve cover, would be apparent due to the interference marks on the under side of the cover.

They say the injectors are kind of loud on these but honestly I can't hear em over the valves

PS. Fix your known problems before you go chasing things that may or may not be wrong. Fuel leaks are bad very very bad!