battery cca how much do you need
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battery cca how much do you need
Hi
went to start my 1989 3.0 v6 pick up today. weather is very cold snow and -10c wind chill. would not start without a mains powered battery charger. my battery has 520 cca which seems low for a v6. Battery on pick up is less than 18months old with 4 year guarntee. starting is fine above +4c. quick check with battery suppliers suggest at least 800cca or above. what do other drivers use battery wise in cold climate.
went to start my 1989 3.0 v6 pick up today. weather is very cold snow and -10c wind chill. would not start without a mains powered battery charger. my battery has 520 cca which seems low for a v6. Battery on pick up is less than 18months old with 4 year guarntee. starting is fine above +4c. quick check with battery suppliers suggest at least 800cca or above. what do other drivers use battery wise in cold climate.
#3
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I always get the most powerful battery in the size case i use I can
Most times when I need a battery I need what is in stock
1 is 700 Cold Cranking amps 3 are 800 Cold cranking amps all are Interstate Batteries.
It would also depend just where you live are these cold temperatures normal or below average
Most times when I need a battery I need what is in stock
1 is 700 Cold Cranking amps 3 are 800 Cold cranking amps all are Interstate Batteries.
It would also depend just where you live are these cold temperatures normal or below average
Last edited by wyoming9; 03-07-2014 at 08:52 AM.
#4
I spend too much time in the boonies to cheap out on batteries. Usually get 700 or 800 cca depending on what kind of deals are to be had. I would only go cheap if I was planning to get rid of the truck soon.
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Hi wyoming
these temps are generally normal but this winter has been very mild in uk. hand brakes are known to freeze on so in winter car is left in gear. so my battery is not capable of cold weather starting. thanks for pointers i can get a 800cca battery with 4 year garanutee for £90. Not a bad price as last battery cost me £80.
these temps are generally normal but this winter has been very mild in uk. hand brakes are known to freeze on so in winter car is left in gear. so my battery is not capable of cold weather starting. thanks for pointers i can get a 800cca battery with 4 year garanutee for £90. Not a bad price as last battery cost me £80.
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What's the actual temperature? Wind chill is irrelevant as far as engine starting is concerned; it's the actual temperature that matters. 700cca is plenty of juice to start a 5.7 liter V8 at -20C, so 520cca should handle your 3.0 at -5C or so just fine. You either have a defective battery, it's not getting charged adequately, or your starting circuit has some marginal connections. Also you may want to check what weight oil you're using. 5W-30 is recommended for those temps.
#7
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When you say it's not starting do you mean it won't rotate the engine?
I use a 500 cca battery and it gets to -40C sometimes, always works for me.
I use a 500 cca battery and it gets to -40C sometimes, always works for me.
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Rjr
my oil is 10-40 at moment. ummm will need to oil change.
Marc
starter will not spin but solnoid clicks and clock dims during attempted start.
my oil is 10-40 at moment. ummm will need to oil change.
Marc
starter will not spin but solnoid clicks and clock dims during attempted start.
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Wind only cools the engine off faster, not to a lower temperature. If it sits for an hour the wind will make a difference. If it sits all night, not really.
I agree about wind and home heating.
Chefdave, if you haven't already, pull off the cable connections to the battery and make sure they're squeaky clean. Do both terminals.
I agree about wind and home heating.
Chefdave, if you haven't already, pull off the cable connections to the battery and make sure they're squeaky clean. Do both terminals.
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Hi
do i just check termials on battery or scabble underneath and check starter termials as well. battery posts during attempted start were still cool no heat indicating bad connection.
do i just check termials on battery or scabble underneath and check starter termials as well. battery posts during attempted start were still cool no heat indicating bad connection.
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Well, the battery terminals are easiest to get to, so I'd start there. Battery chemistry is hard on connector metals, so that's the most likely area for problems.
Plus, you said the lights dim when you hit the starter, indicating the starter is drawing current, but the battery (or connections) can't supply enough.
Here's the long version of the troubleshooting process:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52171407
Plus, you said the lights dim when you hit the starter, indicating the starter is drawing current, but the battery (or connections) can't supply enough.
Here's the long version of the troubleshooting process:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52171407
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Rjr
checked battery termials today felt tight so got spanners out and see if they needed a little more tightening. -ve termial needed a 1/4 turn and +ve needed 3/4 turn started first. turn of key and idles very smoothly. hopefully will get out and check starter motor nuts if its not raining.
checked battery termials today felt tight so got spanners out and see if they needed a little more tightening. -ve termial needed a 1/4 turn and +ve needed 3/4 turn started first. turn of key and idles very smoothly. hopefully will get out and check starter motor nuts if its not raining.
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