Another timing cover question
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Another timing cover question
Wanted to ask the Gurus,
88 2wd 22RE Auto 205K
Took off my valve cover today and found the upper part of my DS Guide has broken loose from the mounting bolt and the chain has been chewing on the timing cover. There is not water in the oil. I know that I for sure need a timing chain set. But do I need a new timing cover if it hasn't broken through yet. I didn't think to take a pic but the there were two good sized grooves in the Aluminum. Also should I spring for the kit from engbldr with everything? wp, op, tc, and timing set? I recently had the oil pump apart and it looked great, even with the mileage. Original water pump as best I can tell.
Thanks Guys
88 2wd 22RE Auto 205K
Took off my valve cover today and found the upper part of my DS Guide has broken loose from the mounting bolt and the chain has been chewing on the timing cover. There is not water in the oil. I know that I for sure need a timing chain set. But do I need a new timing cover if it hasn't broken through yet. I didn't think to take a pic but the there were two good sized grooves in the Aluminum. Also should I spring for the kit from engbldr with everything? wp, op, tc, and timing set? I recently had the oil pump apart and it looked great, even with the mileage. Original water pump as best I can tell.
Thanks Guys
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I have seen some covers with a deep grove in them and they still didnt leak. I would take a punch and tap along it to see to make sure it isnt to thin that it could open up on you at a later time. If in doubt, just replace it.
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Well this pickup is about to become a daily driver, so I think the reduced down time would probably be worth it. So I'll probably just order the whole kit. I'm usually not one to spare expense while "I'm in there".
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Get the ENGNBLDR "FEK" (front end kit)...comes with everything you need for $150 or less.
There are tons of DIYs on this online....Google "22re timing chain replacement"....it couldn't be easier
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
...and there are more....even here on YT
you can do it....be patient, label bolts, ask questions.
There are tons of DIYs on this online....Google "22re timing chain replacement"....it couldn't be easier
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
...and there are more....even here on YT
you can do it....be patient, label bolts, ask questions.
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Well I've got my parts coming. Anyone have a rough estimate how long this job takes if the truck is on a lift? I plan on doing it on Thursday at the hobby shop on base and it's only open from 12-7pm. Will that be long enough?
BTW this is not my first foray in the the front of this motor. I replaced the oil pump seals about a month ago. This was before I discovered the broken timing guide. So I've got some experience, just not this far in.
BTW this is not my first foray in the the front of this motor. I replaced the oil pump seals about a month ago. This was before I discovered the broken timing guide. So I've got some experience, just not this far in.
Last edited by Fordless; 03-01-2013 at 04:15 PM.
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If you have all of the parts cleaned and ready to go, I would allow a good 8 hours but since this sounds like your first time, it could take more. To get it driveable and to make reassembly easier, or at your home leave your power steering and ac off. Also it makes it easier to fix any leaks you may have. My little memory aid when installing the accessories "Necessaries first (water pump pulleys, and alternator) Luxuries last (Power Steering pump and AC)".
Once there are no leaks or other adjustments then you can add the luxuries at your house or elsewhere. Not sure why you want it on a lift, I would rather it lower when in the engine compartment.
Once there are no leaks or other adjustments then you can add the luxuries at your house or elsewhere. Not sure why you want it on a lift, I would rather it lower when in the engine compartment.
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If you have all of the parts cleaned and ready to go, I would allow a good 8 hours but since this sounds like your first time, it could take more. To get it driveable and to make reassembly easier, or at your home leave your power steering and ac off. Also it makes it easier to fix any leaks you may have. My little memory aid when installing the accessories "Necessaries first (water pump pulleys, and alternator) Luxuries last (Power Steering pump and AC)".
Once there are no leaks or other adjustments then you can add the luxuries at your house or elsewhere. Not sure why you want it on a lift, I would rather it lower when in the engine compartment.
Once there are no leaks or other adjustments then you can add the luxuries at your house or elsewhere. Not sure why you want it on a lift, I would rather it lower when in the engine compartment.
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Quick question. Can I pull the crossmember up under the oil pan to get the oil pan out? The FSM for the 93 says to take the bolts out of the engine mounts and jack up the trans an inch. But four bolts and I can take the crossmember out. Is this something that changed with the 89s? My main concern is the suspension imploding if I take out the crossmember. But it certainly doesn't look like it does too much.
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As long as the transmission is supported while the crossmember is out you'll be fine removing it. Will the pan clear the front diff? That would be why I would think you'd half to raise it.I've never dropped an oil pan on a 4wd with IFS so I can't speak from experience.
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Well just as a conclusion: I got the job done. It took about 9.5hrs and I did have to move some of the suspension to get the oil pan off. Check out my pics. Drivers side guide was toast. It's amazing how much better it runs now. Thanks again for everybody's help.
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