'89 4Runner intermitent starting problems
#1
'89 4Runner intermitent starting problems
I own a '89 4Runner and it has run great until recently. Well it's not really the running problem, its the getting it started thats a pain.
There are time's that I can just jump in and turn the key and it starts fine. Other times all that I hear is what sounds like a relay click near the glove box. I can't seem to duplicate the not starting problem either.
For example tonight it's really cold out so I engaged my autostart... ran fine... started again with autostart (Still cold out needed more warmth), then after it ran its timed run, I eventually went out to go home. Click, Click, nothing... no starter engage... nothing more than that relay click sound.
BUT, if I hook jumper cables up to the truck, starts up no problem. What I know it isn't; the battery (it's 4 days old), starter (replaced 2 weeks ago).
This is just driving me to drink... more than usual.
Thanks for any pointers where to look to solve this gremlin.
There are time's that I can just jump in and turn the key and it starts fine. Other times all that I hear is what sounds like a relay click near the glove box. I can't seem to duplicate the not starting problem either.
For example tonight it's really cold out so I engaged my autostart... ran fine... started again with autostart (Still cold out needed more warmth), then after it ran its timed run, I eventually went out to go home. Click, Click, nothing... no starter engage... nothing more than that relay click sound.
BUT, if I hook jumper cables up to the truck, starts up no problem. What I know it isn't; the battery (it's 4 days old), starter (replaced 2 weeks ago).
This is just driving me to drink... more than usual.
Thanks for any pointers where to look to solve this gremlin.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds to me like you are not getting a good enough ground. Pull your battery cables off and scrape the ends clean, and the battery terminals. I use a wire brush with a baking soda/water mixture. Wait a few minutes and rinse it off with just water. Dry with a rag. This gets rid of any corrosion. A can of Coke works fine if you do not have any baking soda. Also, make sure the cable going to the starter is good and tight.
If you get stranded with no tools somewhere, try turning the key to the start position and just holding it there. Don't wiggle the key, or turn it on and off several times. Just hold it in the start position.
Is it a manual? You can always pop the clutch if it won't start.
If you get stranded with no tools somewhere, try turning the key to the start position and just holding it there. Don't wiggle the key, or turn it on and off several times. Just hold it in the start position.
Is it a manual? You can always pop the clutch if it won't start.
#5
I will check my ground... can't be corrosion though, since the battery is only a few days old. Not enough time to get corroded. When I turn the key and hold it... i can hear the relay I mentioned in the original post and some sort of electronic high pitched whine.
Oh and it's an automatic.
Oh and it's an automatic.
Last edited by MMXMonster; 02-27-2006 at 10:24 AM.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quiet high-pitch whine? Exactly what my truck was doing for years. When it would not start, I just used my two suggestions in my earlier post and was never stranded. It never had a problem starting when somebody else looked at it. I wished I had a mechanic with me 24/7 for that 1 in 100 times it would happen. I knew it was not my starter or battery. I doubt is is your starter connection if jumping it works every time, but check anyways. Also, there is a little wire that comes off the battery and goes to the fuse box. Check that end for corrosion. And make sure your ground is good and tight on both ends. Sometimes the corrosion is where the ground meets the chassis. Or, it is possible (having an older rig like mine) corrosion worked its way up the battery cables and is now inside them. Hope this helps. Keep us posted!
#7
Well, I did what you suggested... I removed the wires from the battery and scrubbed them nice and shiny clean. Which was a bit difficult considering it's like 2 degrees outside.
Of course after I was done it started no problem, will have to see over the next few days.
Thanks for all the help.
Of course after I was done it started no problem, will have to see over the next few days.
Thanks for all the help.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
had the same problem on my 86 4runner last year. the oxidation migrated up the wires (under the insulation) creating capacitance, slowly draining the batt. Jumping & new batt work for a short time. Daily driving was fine, but if it sat for longer than a day, no go. What i did was cut the batt terms off, trimmed the wires back to where there wasn't oxide growth (white greenish powder) scraped the strands w/a knife, cleaned w/h2o (oxide nutralizer) rinsed w/ip-alchohol (rinses the minerals in the h2o away) & replaced the terminals w/the cheapest "clamp type" walmart had. i also sprayed it down w/an oxide deterant (was on the same shelf at w-mart) when i was done. And oh yeah, i put the old batt back in too. that was last winter no start probs yet. I should have replaced the entire cables, but i'm lazy & cheap that way.
#10
Problem solved...
Well the problem with the starting reared its ugly head a few more times. It must be some sort of electrical problem.
I was able to solve the problem, but it may seem a bit extreme to most. But I can't do another winter like this past one again.
I am now a happy owner of a '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. Starting problems gone.
Anyone wanna buy a 4Runner, with a few hiccups? LOL
I was able to solve the problem, but it may seem a bit extreme to most. But I can't do another winter like this past one again.
I am now a happy owner of a '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. Starting problems gone.
Anyone wanna buy a 4Runner, with a few hiccups? LOL
#11
Registered User
Hahaha
Have fun when your car won't start because the ENGINE is blown up, the transmission is broken, your tcase breaks and your back windshield falls out on a hill
I'll give you about 350 for that runner though
Have fun when your car won't start because the ENGINE is blown up, the transmission is broken, your tcase breaks and your back windshield falls out on a hill
I'll give you about 350 for that runner though
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: hot hot heat AZ
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just recently ran into the same problem with my '89 22re 4runner. decided to diagnose it...starter signal good, good battery, new clean grounds, new power cables. figured it has to be the starter itself so i picked up a reman. throw it in and the truck starts up perfectly. thought to myself problem solved.
nope...try to start it an hour later and nada. diagnose everything (except the starter...dont have a FSM on me) again and everything shows up ok. tap the starter lightly a couple times with a piece of chromoly tube i had in the truck and it fires right up. good thing the reman comes with a lifetime warranty lol
anyone with OEM Toyota starters have this problem?
nope...try to start it an hour later and nada. diagnose everything (except the starter...dont have a FSM on me) again and everything shows up ok. tap the starter lightly a couple times with a piece of chromoly tube i had in the truck and it fires right up. good thing the reman comes with a lifetime warranty lol
anyone with OEM Toyota starters have this problem?
#13
Registered User
Does anyone have any new information on this issue? Same problem here, car won't start intermittently, but of course always does when I take it in to the mechanic.usually happens after I have been doing stop and go errands. Turn the key and all I hear is a click coming from glove box area. Have installed multiple top of the line starters, new battery, battery cables... Checked all battery connections. This is so frustrating and multiple mechanics have tried multiple times to figure it out. Love my baby and don't want to sell her...have a Feeling it's a simple fix. Would live any input! Praying to the toyota gods!
#14
Does anyone have any new information on this issue? Same problem here, car won't start intermittently, but of course always does when I take it in to the mechanic.usually happens after I have been doing stop and go errands. Turn the key and all I hear is a click coming from glove box area. Have installed multiple top of the line starters, new battery, battery cables... Checked all battery connections. This is so frustrating and multiple mechanics have tried multiple times to figure it out. Love my baby and don't want to sell her...have a Feeling it's a simple fix. Would live any input! Praying to the toyota gods!
IF starter relay clicks but solenoid does not, or IF starter relay clicks AND solenoid clicks but weakly, hence no crank,Try this.
IF above consistently gets your starter to crank, fix it...See this.
IF Starter relay clicks, starter solenoid clicks energetically, but no crank? Most likely solenoid contacts needing replacement. See 4crawler's site.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-27-2014 at 05:24 PM.
#15
89 4runner, 3.0, EFI, Fuel issues
Hello, all
Have the following problem: It will run for about 2 minutes then stops as if runs out of fuel. Even though the engine turns, have to wait at least 1 hour before it will run again.
Replaced fuel pump and filter, ECU, chech Throttle control valve...still have the problem. Help anyone!
Have the following problem: It will run for about 2 minutes then stops as if runs out of fuel. Even though the engine turns, have to wait at least 1 hour before it will run again.
Replaced fuel pump and filter, ECU, chech Throttle control valve...still have the problem. Help anyone!
#16
Hello, all
Have the following problem: It will run for about 2 minutes then stops as if runs out of fuel. Even though the engine turns, have to wait at least 1 hour before it will run again.
Replaced fuel pump and filter, ECU, chech Throttle control valve...still have the problem. Help anyone!
Have the following problem: It will run for about 2 minutes then stops as if runs out of fuel. Even though the engine turns, have to wait at least 1 hour before it will run again.
Replaced fuel pump and filter, ECU, chech Throttle control valve...still have the problem. Help anyone!
What made you decide to replace fuel pump and filter, ECU, chech Throttle control valve?
Did you do anything to verify if they're bad?
All those parts you replaced were probably good, and the really bad one is still there for you to find.
Search the forum o see how to check for spark, for fuel in rail, for fuel pump function, for C.O.R. function, for injector function, before you replace more parts and waste your money
#17
Thanks,
RAD4Runner, appreciate the reply. Yes. The problem is consistent. Reason for replacing those parts is because I read, here, symptoms describing possibilities of those parts being bad. I have read most posts related to my problems but still nowhere near a solution-don't know what's wrong.
Thinkign the fuel pump could be faulty, I checked for fuel in fuel rail, it's fine.
This is what I know, it does have spark and fuel but the mystery remains...don't know where to go next.
Hoping someones has had similar issue and can provide assistance.
Thanks, again,
Thinkign the fuel pump could be faulty, I checked for fuel in fuel rail, it's fine.
This is what I know, it does have spark and fuel but the mystery remains...don't know where to go next.
Hoping someones has had similar issue and can provide assistance.
Thanks, again,
Hello, all
Have the following problem: It will run for about 2 minutes then stops as if runs out of fuel. Even though the engine turns, have to wait at least 1 hour before it will run again.
Replaced fuel pump and filter, ECU, chech Throttle control valve...still have the problem. Help anyone!
Have the following problem: It will run for about 2 minutes then stops as if runs out of fuel. Even though the engine turns, have to wait at least 1 hour before it will run again.
Replaced fuel pump and filter, ECU, chech Throttle control valve...still have the problem. Help anyone!
#18
Wiring between power, injector, ECU and ground is bad (Need to look at your schematic and do resistance checks)
Injectors could be bad. Although all could not have gone bad at the same time.
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: john o groats
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
same prob on my 89 v6 pickup
Had this prob on and off for 12 months. today would not do a hot start so tapped starter motor no joy. checked all conections to check for tightness all rock solid no dign of corosion. went to check cold start connector felt lose even though metal clip to hold it was in place. pushed it about 2mm further on to cold start injector fired up on first turn of key. now need to find away of keeping it tight and see how it goes. have had a new battery and alternator in last two years. both diaginosed as dead by a trusted mechanic. hope this might help other people.