Morphine

I know that this is becoming a dead topic but could anyone enlighten myself and the others afraid to ask about the whole "relay setup" that some have run. I know that Roger from 4crawler.com mentions it, Painlesswiring has a kit for it. However i don't (can't) read wiring schematics so I don't understand what is going on. please if you have this post some pics (visual learner here)

What parts are needed and can I "build" one myself?
I've already rebuilt and replaced my starter.
Replaced my battery.
Replaced my battery cables.
Replaced the link from the fuse box to the "+" battery post.

I would like to UNDERSTAND my problem with my starter (just clicking) and fix it correctly however alot of my research keeps coming back to a flaw or warn out ignition and this seems to be the common fix.

I already planned on replacing the above items so atleast I don't feel like I was throwing $$$ at it. However I would like to get my truck running again and then keep working on her.

PS - I plan on replacing the ignition system here soon (maybe MSD or Jacobs) but i did test mine and it appears to be OK.

Thanks
-=Morphine=-

snap-on

just clicking sounds like the clasic soloind contacts.

$14 fix and about an hr total if you dont have headers. (with headers plan on lots of cussing and another 2 hrs)

Morphine

Thanks for the suggestion, I already did that and replaced the entire starter. Right now for me to start the truck I need to connect jumper cables from the battery to the starter, then she fires right up. I probally should have mentioned that. This is why I'm inquiring about the relay option. thanks again.

-=Morphine=-

runethechamp

The starter can also click if it doesn't get enough current from your battery, at least that's what mine does. Make sure the starter is grounded properly.

hektikwon

Yes, check your ground wires. My problem turned out to be the starter kill relay that I installed with my keyless entry system. no problems since I removed it.

Flamedx4

Morphine, I think Snapon is right.
When you put the cables right on the starter you are bypassing the solenoid, which contains the contacts he mentioned.
There is no reason to assume you need to rewire anything - milliions of the these things start every time, year after years (mine for instance...) with no problem with the start circuit.
IF the battery is good.
IF the battery cables are good (good end crimps)
IF the battery cable connections are clean and tight on the battery.
IF the battery to starter cable connection is clean and tight at the starter.
(and also IF they havent' been OVERtightened, causing something internal to bind.)
IF the battery to chassis ground cable connections are clean and tight.
IF the engine to chassis ground cable connections are clean and tight.
IF the circuit supplying the fuse box, the ignition circuit and the start circuit are intact (not corroded etc.) and
IF the ignition switch isn't screwed....
Then it all works perfectly as designed...

But if your starter just clicks, I would say the issue simply lies between the battery, the cables to the starter and the grounds, and the starter solenoid.

Morphine

OK, I'm really confident on all aspects of the issue here excpet for 2.
1.) connectore on the negative battery post. --replacing this weeked--
2.) overall ground of the system


Now if I connect ONLY the negative post of the battery to the starter housing with a jumper cable and she still doesn't start, would this effectively rule out the grounding issues?

Now back on topic, I would still like an explenation of the starter relay that some have installed please.

thanks
-=Morphine=-

Flamedx4

Not exactly. Because the circuit that goes through the harness to the dash has components that may need a good ground too. It would only tell you if the ground path between the starter and the battery was faulty..

I haven't seen (or even heard about) the extra starter relay thing, but we used to do it on VW bugs when I was a teenager. We would put a starter solenoid (Ford type) near the starter, and connect it up with good cabling so the key switch only had to trip it and it then tripped the starter solenoid (on the starter.) This was because by the time the power went all the way to the dash and back it the voltage had dropped a lot. Poor wiring on those old bugs.