New leaf springs now steering rod hitting Ubolt?
#1
New leaf springs now steering rod hitting Ubolt?
I replaced the leaf springs on my sons 85 4Runner, we went with 5" direct fit springs but when we put the Ubolts on and he went to turn the truck the steering rod hits the rear Ubolt and he can't turn the truck to the right. Why, with direct fit springs, is the steering now hitting? I wouldn't think the dynamics of thr steering would have been change. Am I missing something? My thoughts were to cut that one Ubolt in half and then weld it to the top part of the spring and then weld the bottom plate also so it wouldn't move. Your thoughts appreciated.
#3
On the front axle driverside one Ubolt is in front of the axle then the second one is behind the axle holding the leaf spring in place. When you turn the wheel to the right the steering arm moves towards the rear of the truck and hits the "rear" Ubolt or the one on the back sibe of the axle. If that makes more since?.
#4
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Either get the OME flattened u-bolts or switch to crossover steering:
- http://store.arbusa.com/Suspension-Systems-C16.aspx
Problem is your new springs are likely thicker than stock and that raises the u-bolts up to interfere with the steering drag link:
Other option is to remove a leaf from the spring pack to reduce its thickness.
- http://store.arbusa.com/Suspension-Systems-C16.aspx
Problem is your new springs are likely thicker than stock and that raises the u-bolts up to interfere with the steering drag link:
Other option is to remove a leaf from the spring pack to reduce its thickness.
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#11
Registered User
Question: Were the springs that you replaced the original flat springs? If so, there is your problem - the original steering will not work with the stock push/pull steering. You will need either hi steer or a drop drag link for the 5" lift springs.
Pictures of the truck with its original springs and the new would really help!
Pictures of the truck with its original springs and the new would really help!
#12
Registered User
Ok I've experienced this as well. This due to the lift in the springs. It sharpens the angle on the drag link and causes interference on the u bolt.
Two posible fixes. 1 buy a new drop drag link - summit racing sells them and they are around $60. This is the route i took and it offers some other benefits as the new one is also adjustable so you can set the new centre position on the box too!. 2 have to ball cut off and rewelded on the top of the knuckle. This is a better fix in the end but make sure you get a really good welder as if this brakes you will loose all your steering. Made me nervous so i opted for the new link.
Two posible fixes. 1 buy a new drop drag link - summit racing sells them and they are around $60. This is the route i took and it offers some other benefits as the new one is also adjustable so you can set the new centre position on the box too!. 2 have to ball cut off and rewelded on the top of the knuckle. This is a better fix in the end but make sure you get a really good welder as if this brakes you will loose all your steering. Made me nervous so i opted for the new link.
#14
84foyota, I've been reading up on the drop limnk and moving the ball to the top. I just ordered the drop drag link and when it comes I will cut and re-weld J-arm back on are just punch the ball out and put it on top. Thanks for all your responses you'll have been a big help. My son will be happy also!!
#15
Registered User
84foyota, I've been reading up on the drop limnk and moving the ball to the top. I just ordered the drop drag link and when it comes I will cut and re-weld J-arm back on are just punch the ball out and put it on top. Thanks for all your responses you'll have been a big help. My son will be happy also!!
If you do end up modifying the J arm don't cut it just flip the ball. There are a few write ups on how to do it.
#17
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
Usually there is a cotter pin that holds the end plugs secure. Then unscrew the end plugs:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseI
And take out the pieces, noting the stacking arrangement of the parts as you take them out. It has been over 15 years since I touched the stock drag link, the Factory Service Manual should have a servicing procedure. Dropped drag links are similar on the ends, although they tend to be symmetrical on both ends, with the spring loaded bits in the middle. The stock drag link is not the same on each end, one has the spring loaded bit on the end and the other end has the spring loaded bit in the middle as I recall.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseI
And take out the pieces, noting the stacking arrangement of the parts as you take them out. It has been over 15 years since I touched the stock drag link, the Factory Service Manual should have a servicing procedure. Dropped drag links are similar on the ends, although they tend to be symmetrical on both ends, with the spring loaded bits in the middle. The stock drag link is not the same on each end, one has the spring loaded bit on the end and the other end has the spring loaded bit in the middle as I recall.
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