Doors/No Doors Thats a good question
06-23-2011, 11:52 AM
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Doors/No Doors Thats a good question
Ok, just got my 4Runner a bit ago and have been itching to do something to it, but, I am flat broke. So I thought that I would take the doors off. Something really easy to do and I had some parts lying around to do it.
So I figured I would kill some time here at work and post what I did.
I am sure there is a door removal kit out there.....
I had to remove the front speakers to get to the electrical connectors and disconnect those. DON"T FOR GET ABOUT THE SCREW that you can only see when you open the glove box. Got excited and almost ripped the speaker cover off...
I pulled the speaker, saw the 2 blue connectors for the light and the window motor. Disconnected those.
Removed the kick panel for the door N/C switch. simple single wire, very easy to get to.
On the driver side, you have to remove the whole lower panel under the steering wheel, not a big deal, just a couple of screws. Remove that front speaker as well and you can see the same blue connectors there. Disconnect those and the door switch located behind the kick panel as well.
OK,
I basically took the doors off at the hinges. There were some 12mm bolts that mounted the hinges onto the doors and body. 4 for each hinge.
[/IMG]
A disc grinder would have made quick work of it, but I didn't have that. I used a Recip saw and cut a chunck out of the middle.
Please be smarter than me and make sure you take the hinges off the truck before you use the saw. See in the pic I scrapped the paint a little.... Stupid...
I drilled out the hinge bolts and separated the two hinges.
I used to work for a company installing residential gate systems. They make a quick pull pin that goes into the back of a Miracle 1 gate operator that customers don't like using and request a bolt in place of it.
So I had 4 of these to use for the replacement door pins.
It comes with a c-clip at the mid point of the pin, I didn't like how that worked so I used a small dremel to make another point for the clip to sit at that was much higher so the whole pin would sit through the hinge.
I also cut the upper tab of the top hinge on one side of the truck to see if it would aid in the removal of the doors in the future. It really doesn't. I wouldn't recommend doing it.....
Also, the copper bushing was removed with the old pins, mainly because they wouldn't separate...
So that is pretty much it.
Hope this helps.
BTW, riding without doors is a blast. Don't forget tho, you don't have side mirrors any more so, might not be legal for the road.
I plan on doing a write up on my chevy swap soon. Plan on taking a ton of pics too.
So I figured I would kill some time here at work and post what I did.
I am sure there is a door removal kit out there.....
I had to remove the front speakers to get to the electrical connectors and disconnect those. DON"T FOR GET ABOUT THE SCREW that you can only see when you open the glove box. Got excited and almost ripped the speaker cover off...
I pulled the speaker, saw the 2 blue connectors for the light and the window motor. Disconnected those.
Removed the kick panel for the door N/C switch. simple single wire, very easy to get to.
On the driver side, you have to remove the whole lower panel under the steering wheel, not a big deal, just a couple of screws. Remove that front speaker as well and you can see the same blue connectors there. Disconnect those and the door switch located behind the kick panel as well.
OK,
I basically took the doors off at the hinges. There were some 12mm bolts that mounted the hinges onto the doors and body. 4 for each hinge.
[/IMG]A disc grinder would have made quick work of it, but I didn't have that. I used a Recip saw and cut a chunck out of the middle.
Please be smarter than me and make sure you take the hinges off the truck before you use the saw. See in the pic I scrapped the paint a little.... Stupid...
I drilled out the hinge bolts and separated the two hinges.
I used to work for a company installing residential gate systems. They make a quick pull pin that goes into the back of a Miracle 1 gate operator that customers don't like using and request a bolt in place of it.
So I had 4 of these to use for the replacement door pins.
It comes with a c-clip at the mid point of the pin, I didn't like how that worked so I used a small dremel to make another point for the clip to sit at that was much higher so the whole pin would sit through the hinge.
I also cut the upper tab of the top hinge on one side of the truck to see if it would aid in the removal of the doors in the future. It really doesn't. I wouldn't recommend doing it.....
Also, the copper bushing was removed with the old pins, mainly because they wouldn't separate...
So that is pretty much it.
Hope this helps.
BTW, riding without doors is a blast. Don't forget tho, you don't have side mirrors any more so, might not be legal for the road.
I plan on doing a write up on my chevy swap soon. Plan on taking a ton of pics too.
06-23-2011, 12:04 PM
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I have an adaptor to a chev th350 to toyota tcase thats never been used for 380. if you are intrested. nice write up... simple but gets the job done. I would remove my doors but I live in washington lol it always rains here.
06-24-2011, 10:56 AM
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If it was for an OM617 then I would be all over it. lol.
I understand the rain situation. Would love to live up there, because being this white is a pain when the sun is out this much. BURNS :S
I understand the rain situation. Would love to live up there, because being this white is a pain when the sun is out this much. BURNS :S
07-15-2011, 02:07 PM
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Do the diesel swap its about the same money. I just modded my hinges to take the doors of my runner too. I found a pair of motorcycle morrors at honda depot for $11 each not on sale. I have a little write in my build thred about it. The link is in my sig. Good luck and have fun with your build
07-15-2011, 03:33 PM
#5
I used to work for a company installing residential gate systems. They make a quick pull pin that goes into the back of a Miracle 1 gate operator that customers don't like using and request a bolt in place of it.
So I had 4 of these to use for the replacement door pins.
It comes with a c-clip at the mid point of the pin, I didn't like how that worked so I used a small dremel to make another point for the clip to sit at that was much higher so the whole pin would sit through the hinge.
Also, the copper bushing was removed with the old pins, mainly because they wouldn't separate...
So I had 4 of these to use for the replacement door pins.
It comes with a c-clip at the mid point of the pin, I didn't like how that worked so I used a small dremel to make another point for the clip to sit at that was much higher so the whole pin would sit through the hinge.
Also, the copper bushing was removed with the old pins, mainly because they wouldn't separate...
If you wanted to replace those brass bushings here's that thread...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...shings-237539/
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-15-2011 at 03:39 PM.
07-15-2011, 03:50 PM
#7
Seriously. 
Well, it never hurts to try new things I guess. Sometimes it makes your wallet a little lighter though. Now you know better. And better yet, SO DO WE! Thanks for sharing your mistake with those potential unfortunates among us who might dare to try something like that.
So, the question isn't why really, it's why not at this point.
The answer = now he needs a new driver's side door upper hinge assembly. Or just that part of it, if one can be found in a junkyard by chance. Or if available
Well, it never hurts to try new things I guess. Sometimes it makes your wallet a little lighter though. Now you know better. And better yet, SO DO WE! Thanks for sharing your mistake with those potential unfortunates among us who might dare to try something like that.
So, the question isn't why really, it's why not at this point.
The answer = now he needs a new driver's side door upper hinge assembly. Or just that part of it, if one can be found in a junkyard by chance. Or if available
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-15-2011 at 03:59 PM.
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07-15-2011, 06:07 PM
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I took the doors off for a few days last summer. Since at least driver's side and rear-view mirrors are required on vehicles here, I bought two mirrors from the auto parts store. They bolted right onto the upper hinges. You SHOULD do something like this.
07-15-2011, 06:44 PM
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I bolted on motorcycle morrors then my non gear head friend put a 4" bolt through the upper hole in the lower hinge as a High way peg going with the motorcycle theam just being funny and its awesome but i can see the tire tread and that makes me think that some time a rock is going to smash my leg. But i took the runner on a two hour road trip and nothing happened and its a fun feature and a lot of crazy looks.
07-15-2011, 08:07 PM
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When I made my half doors I looked up the laws here in WA, you have to have I believe it was 6 inch lip at the bottom of the door frame to keep crap from rolling out of your vehicle and becoming a hazard, so no doors is illegal,unless your vehicle body is tubbed like a jeep with a built in lower lip. Might want to check your states laws so smokey dosnt give u a ticket. 
07-15-2011, 10:14 PM
#14
here are some ways to achieve removeable hinges:
when I did my 1st set of hinges and did not have the brass(not copper) bushings it was fine with my tube doors but with the full weight of a regular door it sagged too much...
Originally Posted by ocdropzone
consolidating some info on door pin replacement and quick release hinges for half doors or tube doors:
wheatus did a nice write up on replacing door hinge pins
**If you go this route, use the hinge version of the right, not the left***
Video How to sent in by 87hillbillyoter
wheatus did a nice write up on replacing door hinge pins
It seems that you can purchase lower door hinge replacements but not upper hinges. I modified my hinges to use replacable pins and bushings. To do this modification you will need: 12mm socket, ratchet, at least 3 inch extension, files or grinding tool, hammer, punch, vise, hacksaw, and a helper. (I will try and get the part numbers of the pins and bushings i used. I took my hinges to the parts store after i removed the old pins and bushings and found something close.)
1. Roll down the window, it makes the door easier to handle when removed.
2. If not equiped with power windows or locks skip to step 4.If equipped with power options you will need to remove the kickpanel and disconect the wiring.
3. Pull the wiring through the A pillar.
4. Using the ratchet, extension, and 12mm socket remove one bolt from each hinge.
5. Have your helper hold the door as you remove the last two bolts.
6. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hinges to the door shell. There should be a total of 8 bolts.
7. Place the door shell in a place where it will not get damaged.
8. Take pictures or mark the hinges top and bottom to aid reassembly later. Work on one hinge at a time so you do not mix parts.
9. Secure the hinge in a vise.
10. Using a flat file or a grinding tool, a dremel or a die grinder work well, to grind the puddle weld holding the pin. Be careful not to grind too much off of the hinge.
11. Use the punch and hammer to knock the pin out of the hinge.
12. Remove the old bushings.
13. File, drill, or grind the hinges to fit the new pins and bushings. Notice that not all of the holes are the same size, check the fitting often.
14. Line up your marks or refer to your picture for reassembly.
15. Install new bushings.
16. Install new pin.
17. Reassemble the hinge.
18. Using the hacksaw you can cut off the excess pin. (optional)
19. Repeat steps 8-18 for the other hinge.
20. Reinstall the hinges to the door shell.
21. Have helper hold the door as you mount the hinges to the body.
1. Roll down the window, it makes the door easier to handle when removed.
2. If not equiped with power windows or locks skip to step 4.If equipped with power options you will need to remove the kickpanel and disconect the wiring.
3. Pull the wiring through the A pillar.
4. Using the ratchet, extension, and 12mm socket remove one bolt from each hinge.
5. Have your helper hold the door as you remove the last two bolts.
6. Remove the 4 bolts holding the hinges to the door shell. There should be a total of 8 bolts.
7. Place the door shell in a place where it will not get damaged.
8. Take pictures or mark the hinges top and bottom to aid reassembly later. Work on one hinge at a time so you do not mix parts.
9. Secure the hinge in a vise.
10. Using a flat file or a grinding tool, a dremel or a die grinder work well, to grind the puddle weld holding the pin. Be careful not to grind too much off of the hinge.
11. Use the punch and hammer to knock the pin out of the hinge.
12. Remove the old bushings.
13. File, drill, or grind the hinges to fit the new pins and bushings. Notice that not all of the holes are the same size, check the fitting often.
14. Line up your marks or refer to your picture for reassembly.
15. Install new bushings.
16. Install new pin.
17. Reassemble the hinge.
18. Using the hacksaw you can cut off the excess pin. (optional)
19. Repeat steps 8-18 for the other hinge.
20. Reinstall the hinges to the door shell.
21. Have helper hold the door as you mount the hinges to the body.
Video How to sent in by 87hillbillyoter
Originally Posted by 87hillbillyoter
07-16-2011, 11:42 AM
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Haven't been on here and checked this thread in a while. Been a ton going on!
I am going to have to check and see if there is a law against the lip thing. Funny that I am reading it now too!
My wifes phone fell out by means of a really unlikely set of events. We were only going 5 or so around a courner... IF I HAD A LIP it definatley would have saved the phone from a few more scratches.
As far as the hinge thing, my buddy with a cherokee did that to his hinges so he could weld a little pin in the top. Then when he wanted to get the door off he could just open up and pull the doors up just like a wrangler.
Like before tho, I don't recommend doing that.... Stupid stupid stupid
I like the half door trick, would be better for the summer for sure.
What I have going on now is the electrical stuff. I have window motors
So I got a couple trailer electrical connectors. One flat 4 wire, and one 6 pin square connector. (per door)
At least now, I don't have to take all the stuff out from the bottom to get the wires disconnected. Has been pretty cool since then, now it takes a couple seconds to get the doors off.
Also, the pins had the heavy duty key ring loop already for use with the gate operators.
I have passed quite a few cops on the road, been super nervous every time. The cops around here are looking heavy on speeding.
SIDE NOTE: IF YOU TAKE I-65 ANYWHERE CLOSE TO THE BOARDER OF INDIANA AND KENTUCKY 60mph IS MAX!!! I see people go flying by me and I know without a doubt that they are from out of state. And sure enough, they get hammered...
Anyways,
Going to have to come up with something tho, because that does make since. And I do notice it on the wranglers.
I would recommend taking doors off. It has made driving around a ton more fun!! I need to wheel it and see how much better I like that.
I am going to have to check and see if there is a law against the lip thing. Funny that I am reading it now too!
My wifes phone fell out by means of a really unlikely set of events. We were only going 5 or so around a courner... IF I HAD A LIP it definatley would have saved the phone from a few more scratches.
As far as the hinge thing, my buddy with a cherokee did that to his hinges so he could weld a little pin in the top. Then when he wanted to get the door off he could just open up and pull the doors up just like a wrangler.
Like before tho, I don't recommend doing that.... Stupid stupid stupid
I like the half door trick, would be better for the summer for sure.
What I have going on now is the electrical stuff. I have window motors
So I got a couple trailer electrical connectors. One flat 4 wire, and one 6 pin square connector. (per door)
At least now, I don't have to take all the stuff out from the bottom to get the wires disconnected. Has been pretty cool since then, now it takes a couple seconds to get the doors off.
Also, the pins had the heavy duty key ring loop already for use with the gate operators.
I have passed quite a few cops on the road, been super nervous every time. The cops around here are looking heavy on speeding.
SIDE NOTE: IF YOU TAKE I-65 ANYWHERE CLOSE TO THE BOARDER OF INDIANA AND KENTUCKY 60mph IS MAX!!! I see people go flying by me and I know without a doubt that they are from out of state. And sure enough, they get hammered...
Anyways,
Going to have to come up with something tho, because that does make since. And I do notice it on the wranglers.
I would recommend taking doors off. It has made driving around a ton more fun!! I need to wheel it and see how much better I like that.
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