TinMan

I am putting in a TG rear spring kit, using 5150"s.

Last thing I needed to do before pulling it all back out to weld, was put in the shocks and make sure shock travel was good.

The directions say the upper stock shock mount can be used. That was what I was planning on doing. But when I put the shocks in, I noticed that the bushings in the 5150's are to small to fit over the stock upper mounts. Anyone else have this problem?

It should not be to much hassle to make some new upper mounts, I was just not planning on it. Can you get different bushings that will fit over the stock upper rear mounts?

Thanks

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Drill out the bushings.

:wabbit2:

TinMan

Good idea. Thanks wabbit.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

It's what I do.

:wabbit2:

Volcom

Marlin sells a direct fit bushing
http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspens...-shock-bushing

TinMan

Thanks man, I wish I would have known that before this past weekend. I ended up making a new upper shock mount, it runs both rear shocks behind the axle, much like MyYota has. I will post some pictures tonight. And I have already removed the stock upper mounts.

Thanks

myyota

Im interested in seeing the mounts that you made.

TinMan

MyYota here you go.









Top of the shocks are at the same hight and distance away from the frame as they would have been if I was able to use the stock mounts. I placed the axle mounts at the 2 o'clock position to protect them a little bit.

Thanks sending the pictures of yours.

Later

Volcom

Nice double sheer uppper shock mount! I might have to copy that. I don't like the way I have my upper & lower shock mounts done.

myyota

That looks good, that set up will give you a nice ride.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Looks good Todd.

:wabbit2:

svdude

iTrader: (3)

I was wondering if I can drill the bushings... but I wasn't sure of what size drill bit to use. Do the bushings still need to be snug on the rod? I would imagine if it isn't snug enough that it would create excess movement and wear them out faster.

btw wabbit: I bought my kit long spring 4" lift kit from you in Feb this year, I'm still working on it. It's slow progress and gets done whenever I have time.

If I make my own upper shock mount like tinman, is there anything I need to know as far as distance between shock mounts or how far from center on the axle the mounts should be?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You can drill the bushings but it is tough, assuming polyurethane. Best to put bushings in a deep freezer overnight then drill to match the size of the mounting h/w. Or better option is a metal burr in a die grinder. Get one about 1/2" in dia and just work around the ID of the bushing from each side, test fitting frequently.

Measure for the shock mount locations, compressed and extended length.

TinMan

The blisten bushings are shaped like an hour glass. I spoke to TG about it and they said they dont like to drill them out because it will put the bolt in contact with the metal from the shock, and caused a loud ticking noise that is annoying.

I have a hard time compressing the springs to measure for things like bump stops and shocks, because with the springs being new when I lift it with the jack to compress the springs the springs do not flatten out. That is even with a good bit of extra weigh in it and on it. So just trusted that if TG says the stock location can be used with the 12" shocks it would work if I put the upper mounts in the same location as the stock ones. I may end up having to put in limit straps later to keep the shock for over extending. I will see once the springs break in some.

That is why I dont have bump stops in the back yet. The springs will compress slightly, then just lift the truck. So once they break in some and I can compress them I will measure and install bump stops.

Later hope it helps.

svdude

iTrader: (3)

With your home brew shock mount, what diameter rod did you end up using through your bushings? I wasn't sure if I wanted to use the supplied bushings, they seemed to be too short. I kinda figured that I would want them to go completely from edge to edge of the bushing in order to keep the bushing from flexing into the hardware and expediting the ware of the bushing.

I would much rather use the stock locations for now but I may end up going your route, I have some scrap stock so I'll probably just start tinkering with a home brew setup.

TinMan

If you put the metal sleeve that comes with the shocks in the bushings, a 1/2" bolt is perfect. If you dont use the metal sleeve you are going to have to go with a metric bolt.

later