SeattleCobra

I can't be the only one!

My 1985 Yota pickup 22R won't idle down. The nylon / plastic bushings on the carb are worn out. When I release the gas pedal, the spring tension isn't enough to return it to the fully closed idle position. I can manually manipulate the shaft () to get it to get it to idle down, but it won't do it on its own.

Short of buying a new Weber carb, or a rebuild, is there a solution for this? I've looked at a couple carb rebuild kits and didn't see any of those plastic bushings for replacement. I've read where some people have gone down to the local Farm & Country hardware store and matched up a stiffer spring, but I live in Seattle, and the hardware stores around here don't offer much beyond fake granite counter tops and lawn care products. I can't hardly go match it up anywhere, and besides, a stiffer spring means you have to push harder on the gas pedal.

I rigged up a cheap screen door spring with some zip ties for now, and let me tell you, after holding that sucker down for twenty minutes, the right calf starts to burn. I think my legs are beginning to look lopsided.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

slow-mo

I ,as well, do not see any of the parts your asking about in the parts fiche. You may have to pull them from a donor vehicle. Or by a complete used carburetor.

MudMachine88

i have a 93 22r. and have to press the acc pedal about 5 times on a cold start in the mornings before work. Is this common? or could there be a possible issue. plus when it starts it revs out to 2000rpm and sits there till it comes up to temp and drops to 800-900rpm

slow-mo

On my 1987 22R, the owner's manual did state that on a cold engine start, to press and release the gas pedal 4 times, so this is normal.


And regarding the high engine rpms after the engine has started, this is also normal. When you depress the gas pedal, the "Fast Idle Cam" on the carburetor engages to physically open the throttle valve a little. This allows for a quicker engine warm up until the coolant-controlled "Vacuum Switch Valve" that controls the whole choke circuit, diverts vacuum to remove all of the choke circuit.


The rpms for the cold engine fast idle is adjustable, a least on my U.S.A. version. The 22R for your market may be different. I'm not at home to post where that adjustment screw is, so you'll have to wait.

slow-mo

Ok, here's a couple pics:

lonfu

question about distributor. 1985 toy 4x4 22r carb 317 k miles, 25k on rebuild. I replaced the timing chain, new metal chain guides. timing is -5 degree's back with vac lines disconected and plugged. Has a huge hesitation when throttle opened. triple checked the valve cam timing, it isn't my first rodeo!

tested: all smog, egr, smog switches, vaccum switches. rebuilt carb, replaced ignitor and coil. just noticed that the 4 point transducer signal rotor is not at a right angle to the distributor rotor flat spot that holds the rotor in place when spinning. I was wondering if some out there could take a look at their 85 22R distributor and see if the transducer signal rotor nub is exactly at 90 degrees to flat spot on your distributor. Mine is to the right about 15 degrees. It is the only thing I can find wrong with the entire engine. I'm thinking that when the advance moves the plate and transducer, it moves it just out of range of the signal rotor (signal nubs) thanks for any help.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Springs can be sourced in a lot of places. As far as living in seattle. I am out in issaquah and you can find farm and feed stores fairly close to the seattle area. Issaquah has the grange supply. Auburn redmond, issaquah, woodinville, Monroe, all about 20-30 min from seattle has several feed/farm stores. Do some research and call them ahead of time. You might also be able to call a tractor/heavy machine rental or repair store. See if they will help you source the spring.

SeattleCobra

Well I finally got around to replacing the stock carb with a Weber, 32/36, hoping that would resolve the sticking throttle issue. Unfortunately, the kit requires you to reuse the original throttle bracket, which is apparently what has been causing the problem this whole time. The nylon bushing that goes around the question mark looking throttle shaft is completely disintegrated, similar to this post:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-cable-168104/

Off to the Pick 'N Pull I go! That is, unless someone has a better idea? Theoretically, all I really need is that stupid little plastic bushing.

lonfu

PB blaster down the cable is what I do for problem sticky cables. By the way, for me it turned out to be several problems. Not only were the mech advance springs shot, the carb was just plain bad too! Figure an internal air leak on the carb. I replaced both with stock new units and the truck runs like it was brand new. Got both off ebay.

SeattleCobra

See where I slathered it with white lithium grease? There's supposed to be a bushing there. The throttle cable is fine.

SeattleCobra

Thanks, lonfu. It's a brand new Weber. If I take off the throttle bracket, I can rev it with my hand and it'll snap back to the correct idle position. The cable itself seems okay - it goes slack when you let off the gas, leaving no tension on the bracket. It's clearly the missing bushing that's causing problems. Just don't know where to find a new one. Rapid prototype one at UPS?

westco

I am having an issue with my new to me 85 4x4 xcab, the carb was rebuilt 2 yrs ago and passed smog according to the PO who I know, i now have to re-smog to register in my name but it won't pass smog test, i was told it needs to be rebuilt.

Truck came with LC ENgineering Weber 38 not emission legal brand new in the box, can you tell me more about the ebay new replacement carb I seen a couple on there just not sure about them, priced at about 180 it seems reasonable

lonfu

Yes, I bought mine from ebay. price sounds about right. make sure the accel cable and how it hitches to carb look the same in the pix as yours. I pulled my orginal carb twice and went through it. it was about 2 years old and a rebuilt by a "professional" rebuilder. Like I said, probably an internal air leak in the casting. The thing that I thought was cool about the ebay unit was that it was brand new, not rebuilt. Fired right up and still runs perfect.

westco

Thanks for responding. So just to be clear did all the vacuum lines and any other connections match up, in Cali I need it to be the same in order for it to pass the visual as well as the sniffer test...thanks

lonfu

Yes, my truck is a cali truck too and it matched up perfectly. You will have to adjust the idle mix a bit but your smog guy should do this. I'm no longer in a smog test area, so I didn't have to have mine tested. But, if your smog guy says it doesn't pass, then I would have it tested some where else. Also, the pcv valve on the 85's are notorious for causing problems, don't know if you know this or not. Even if it shakes loose.

lonfu

Now that is a real redneck job!!!!!!

Local hard ware stores usually will have some different kinds of bushings. Don't be afraid of the plumbing dept. I have even had to use plastic pex pipe to make what I needed. Make sure it is red or hot water pex pipe. Hope this helps.

westco

One more question, did the ebay carb come with all it's gaskets or do i need to buy them separately?...thanks

lonfu

It's been a while, but I don't remember buying any gaskets. Seems like there is a extra thick gasket and I flat sanded it or something like that, just to make sure that it wasn't warped or pitted. sorry...